242xp resurrection. (My first 2xx series) Build Complete! Vid added!

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Well, I need to wait and see if the seller of the OEM top end over on AS is willing to sell me just the piston. If he is unwilling to do so, I will plan on getting the Tecomec kit and try just as you suggested. Good idea Smokey

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

So I forgot to let you guys know my plan for this one... I don't think I'm going to try to get too wild with it. Seems as though it is already quite capable of good top RPM. That coupled with the fact that good pistons and cylinders are only getting harder to come by makes me want to keep things relatively mild. I'm thinking just a basic BG delete to bump the compression a little along with what I already did to uncork the muffler a bit is all I want to do to this saw. Even with the exhaust and transfers being a tad lower after the BG delete, I don't think it's going to lose much on the top end. I modded both my 357 and 372 incrementally starting with a BG delete and MM and neither of those seemed to lose anything noticeable up top but gained a little grunt.

I don't expect this little guy to be a champ at bucking 12 inch wood, but I think a little bump in compression might be just what the doctor ordered to give this small displacement, high revving saw a little more grunt.

What say you guys??

 

[smokey7]

Staying conservative on the oem jug makes sense. But I would probably but 2 tecomic kits one to throw on the shelf. And another to get a good piston from and a jug so close to oem I don't think anyone could tell the difference power wise. Then get a but wild with that one. I am not talking fingers but why not cut squish and base for fun. They cheap and we all love to tinker and modify stuff.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Now THERE is something to ponder!

 

[Tor R]

OEM skirt 28,8 mm, intake port marked, and as most can see the oem skirt isnt centered to the con rod, it's more centered for the intake port.


Meteor skirt 30,1mm, intake port marked, and skirt is pretty much centered to the con rod.


Distance from skirt to intake port is around 3mm. I don't know why they placed the ring pin there, it make no sense for me.


Overview OEM and Meteor

 

[Tor R]

So I forgot to let you guys know my plan for this one... I don't think I'm going to try to get too wild with it. Seems as though it is already quite capable of good top RPM. That coupled with the fact that good pistons and cylinders are only getting harder to come by makes me want to keep things relatively mild. I'm thinking just a basic BG delete to bump the compression a little along with what I already did to uncork the muffler a bit is all I want to do to this saw. Even with the exhaust and transfers being a tad lower after the BG delete, I don't think it's going to lose much on the top end. I modded both my 357 and 372 incrementally starting with a BG delete and MM and neither of those seemed to lose anything noticeable up top but gained a little grunt.

I don't expect this little guy to be a champ at bucking 12 inch wood, but I think a little bump in compression might be just what the doctor ordered to give this small displacement, high revving saw a little more grunt.

What say you guys??

Shave off the key, at least 1/3, mine is 1/2, it improve throttle respond alot. You may also consider to open up the airfilter troat, it isn't any bigger then the carb venturi stock, mine is close to the butterfly size.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Hmm. So the Meteor skirt is taller or wider than OEM? I'm guessing the markings you made of the intake on each piston indicated where it sits at BDC? What do we take from these pics you've so generously provided Tor?

BTW, thank you for taking the time to post up these pics showing the differences.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Shave off the key, at least 1/3, mine is 1/2, it improve throttle respond alot. You may also consider to open up the airfilter troat, it isn't any bigger then the carb venturi stock, mine is close to the butterfly size.

I was wondering if this little saw likes a little more timing or not.

 

[rattler]

You can put a 120 carb on it[emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[rattler]

And like my buddy Tor said they like a timing advance.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Hoping Don agrees to sell just the piston. That will speed things up on this build a fair bit. Besides the usual carb kit, fuel line, filter, etc...all I need is a good piston, flywheel side crank bearing and seal, a gasket set, and the front anti-vibe rubbers! The rest is just prettying up the cosmetics. I see OEM top covers and starter housings are still available, not terribly cheap, but available.

 

[Tor R]

Hmm. So the Meteor skirt is taller or wider than OEM? I'm guessing the markings you made of the intake on each piston indicated where it sits at BDC? What do we take from these pics you've so generously provided Tor?

BTW, thank you for taking the time to post up these pics showing the differences.

pictures doesnt show the whole difference between Meteor and OEM, they only show that skirt placement will not kill the idea of using Meteor.
Ill see if I get time tomorrow to check if Husky changed on the latest oem piston compared to the one you and I is working with nowadays.

I was wondering if this little saw likes a little more timing or not.

they sure like timing advance, I dont do dramatic things with them, followed timing advices from Randy and Mike

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Thanks again Tor for going to all the trouble of swapping pistons around to educate me better on these 242s. I really appreciate it.

 

[dbittle]

I have one of these. It likes the timing advance and base gasket delete. You can open the muffler up some internally underneath the deflector if you haven't done that already. With these basic mods, it is a very nice little saw with good torque.

 

[Tor R]

Retail price on those 242 pistons is 97$, JRed dealer gave me 7$ off, we are down to 90$.
Will give my main dealer a call tomorrow (Stig had free today), maybe he can give a tad better price.
No need to rush for those pistons, Husky Norway has 200+ in stock.

 

[Spike60]

Gasket delete and muff mod alone are a nice improvement on these saws. Stock muffler is a pretty restricted item, so it does respond well when opened up. I'm going to have to try that timing advance on one of mine.

242's are kind of special. It has never been properly replaced in the Husky line up. You'll find yourself using this saw on larger wood than you think.

The parts issue however is rapidly getting worse. Top covers and starters have joined the NLA list here in the US.

Can't even get the top handle.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I agree..and Im no expert but I think it's a size class that Husky has neglected and it doesn't seem to me like the 543 stacks up.

Unfortunately the seller of the OEM top end kit does not want to separate the piston. I might just buy the whole works from him even though I really don't need the cylinder. I feel his asking price is fair. We'll see when next pay day rolls around

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Should I try and open the muffler up more than I did?? I just removed the screen, screen retainer, and fingers extending downward from the deflector, then opened the deflector up a bit. It seemed really choked down with all the stuff in there. Without the saw together, I'm not sure if a second exhaust port will fit anywhere on the muffler without blasting parts of the saw with heat that won't like that too much. Or should I try and just open up the factory outlet a bit more??

 

[Spike60]

The mufflers usually have a "box" inside with small holes around the exhaust port. If you have the removable deflector, then it's easy to solve the problem from the outside. But you can also attack it from the inside. Get rid of that and the stock port location works OK. I have one that I just went the crude route on and drilled a couple 3/8 holes in.

 

[Tor R]

242's are kind of special. It has never been properly replaced in the Husky line up. You'll find yourself using this saw on larger wood than you think.

The parts issue however is rapidly getting worse. Top covers and starters have joined the NLA list here in the US.

Can't even get the top handle.

sadly Husqvarna has decided to quit making parts for their pearl, but your guys has more problems to get parts for 242 compared to what we have at the moment.
As long Husly Norway doesnt ship those seals and pistoms away we are kinda safe, over to the next issue, PTO bearing

I did a bit internet search today.....
slacker 543301, I know we can purchase 543301 E23, but price tag 120€ is insane.


But, what about this 36$ bearing.....(it may be cheaper other places) seal dimension is the same as we use on 242...
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-525453Z27B-slacker.php