High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

10 mm 044 ish

Red97

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Friend dropped this off today, got it as you see it non runner. Something wasn't quite right..



Well, that wasn't too bad. Wayyyyy different than what I am used to...



That is what didn't feel right.



Jug made it through pretty well, couple little dings on the top of the trans tunnels. Couple marks in the squishband, those will be gone once cut.

Now the delima. First stihl build...

Do I try to find a good used 10mm crank, or swap in a 12mm and make a hybrid?

The owner has 036's, 460, 066. Is a hybrid going to be used if the 460 ever got ported?

Or rebuild/port as a 10mm 044??
 

Red97

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Can't remember for sure..... does the 12mm crank fit in the 10 mm crank saws?

Only thing I have read was the counter weights may rub, figure I could just turn it on the lathe.

trying to figure if a hybrid has a place with a 460 in the stable.
 

Deets066

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Hybrid has a place with any line up, if he bought an 044 he must not be worried about having the same class saws
 

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I like my hybrid very much Joe but 12mm and 440 are easier to find. I would build it with the 50mm jug.

Just worried this may happen to the new 10mm crank...

Not up on the stihl stuff, that a known issue with the 10mm saws?
 

Deets066

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I've never seen the big end go like that, I'm sure it would be fine as the 50mm as well. Just depends on what's available to ya
 

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I've never seen the big end go like that, I'm sure it would be fine as the 50mm as well. Just depends on what's available to ya

Nothing, it doesn't much matter which way I go, can always use the jug on another saw.

Owner wanted a hybrid till he found out it was 10mm. Now the crank is junk, only the jug is salvageable.

Guess it just depends on how much a good 10mm crank will cost.

A/m lines/seals any good for these? Bearings? Or better off to go oem?
 

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I'd go oem on bearings and seals and A/M on lines, boot, etc.
 

huskihl

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Can't remember for sure..... does the 12mm crank fit in the 10 mm crank saws?
Counterweights rub the bottom of the case on some. On mine, the bottom of the rod rubbed the case. The difference may possibly be determined by the size of the recoil bolts. Most bolts on a stihl are 5mm. Older 044 recoil bolts were 4mm. Mine are 4mm and the rod hit the case. I believe that on one's with 5mm recoil bolts, the crank journals will bottom out, but not the rod. Easy enough to clearance the journals, not so much on the rod
 

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Nothing, it doesn't much matter which way I go, can always use the jug on another saw.

Owner wanted a hybrid till he found out it was 10mm. Now the crank is junk, only the jug is salvageable.

Guess it just depends on how much a good 10mm crank will cost.

A/m lines/seals any good for these? Bearings? Or better off to go oem?
IMO I'd definitely use oem crank bearings. The AM crank seals I've used have been good. Just watch the step on the flywheel end of the crank when installing the new seal. I've also used AM lines and AV rubbers. So far no problems. DDave sells a complete AM 044/046 rubber kit that is really inexpensive.
 

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Counterweights rub the bottom of the case on some. On mine, the bottom of the rod rubbed the case. The difference may possibly be determined by the size of the recoil bolts. Most bolts on a stihl are 5mm. Older 044 recoil bolts were 4mm. Mine are 4mm and the rod hit the case. I believe that on one's with 5mm recoil bolts, the crank journals will bottom out, but not the rod. Easy enough to clearance the journals, not so much on the rod

These look to be 4mm..

IMO I'd definitely use oem crank bearings. The AM crank seals I've used have been good. Just watch the step on the flywheel end of the crank when installing the new seal. I've also used AM lines and AV rubbers. So far no problems. DDave sells a complete AM 044/046 rubber kit that is really inexpensive.

Thank you sir. Have to check those out.
 

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Counterweights rub the bottom of the case on some. On mine, the bottom of the rod rubbed the case. The difference may possibly be determined by the size of the recoil bolts. Most bolts on a stihl are 5mm. Older 044 recoil bolts were 4mm. Mine are 4mm and the rod hit the case. I believe that on one's with 5mm recoil bolts, the crank journals will bottom out, but not the rod. Easy enough to clearance the journals, not so much on the rod
Yeah I found out about the recoil bolts when I put my old school recoil on my new 440 case. But what do the recoil bolts have to do with the crank? Are there any 10 mm 44's with 5 mm recoil bolts?
 

huskihl

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But what do the recoil bolts have to do with the crank? Are there any 10 mm 44's with 5 mm recoil bolts?
Yes. Not sure when the break was though. 028 had 4mm recoil bolts. 026 I believe all were 5mm. So maybe sometime around that switch? I really don't know when, but some 10mm 044 were 4mm and some 10mm 044 were 5mm. @Definitive Dave might know
 
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