044 project

[MattG]

Do you never worry about distortion or paint peeling inside the case?

Adam, when I did my 2oot it had original stihl paint on the inside casing - and it was surprising little affected by the torch. Went a tad beige in hue.......god knows what they use.....but it's 'kin tough.

 

[Adamski]

How long do you keep your flame on the cases then Brad. I had played the propane torch on my 044s for just over a minute......they would not fall into place. At first I pressed them down using thumb pressure, but only by a couple mil. I had to hammer them down the rest.

It's that dodgy saw you won on eBay. It looked like it had been run over by a tractor, bearing cups are probably out of round [emoji23]

 

[Lightning Performance]

You guys make *s-word too hard. Buy a heat gun or use your oven/toaster oven. Real cheap real easy. They also make a great hotbox for press in wristpin work. No more burns for you. Although I still use a torch on split cases and have zero issues. Back off a bit with the tip.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Adam, when I did my 2oot it had original stihl paint on the inside casing - and it was surprising little affected by the torch. Went a tad beige in hue.......god knows what they use.....but it's 'kin tough.

Powder coating. Cured in a kiln.

 

[MattG]

Powder coating. Cured in a kiln.

Yeah it's alright for some!

 

[MattG]

It's that dodgy saw you won on eBay. It looked like it had been run over by a tractor, bearing cups are probably out of round [emoji23]

B@stard!

 

[Adamski]

You guys make *s-word too hard. Buy a heat gun or use your oven/toaster oven. Real cheap real easy. They also make a great hotbox for press in wristpin work. No more burns for you. Although I still use a torch on split cases and have zero issues. Back off a bit with the tip.

I didnt find it too hard... Case on hob, 30 seconds later bearing in cup. Then the next case side on hob, 30 seconds later bearing pushed in with a clamp and hammer. 2 minutes in total. No sweat, no costs associated with the process.

Think the OP has an anomaly of a case.

 

[MattG]

Think the OP has an anomaly of a case.

Ha ha! In more than ways than one!

I might have it finished in 2020

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I think about 120/150C is a good temp. But as always if oousing round and round with a propane gun , it's a darn sh!te hotter than we want in one place for a long or short time. And it's cooling while not there
I think that's why and there's temp settings on a heat guns And then having a IR temp thing makes it simples for us simpletons in other words... nice and slow.. And keep checking. Oh I wait for the day I'm doing it

 

[MattG]

I think about 120/150C is a good temp. But as always if oousing round and round with a propane gun , it's a darn sh!te hotter than we want in one place for a long or short time. And it's cooling while not there
I think that's why and there's temp settings on a heat guns And then having a IR temp thing makes it simples for us simpletons in other words... nice and slow.. And keep checking. Oh I wait for the day I'm doing it

TBH wonkey a propane gun will get them a lot hotter than 120/150. I wouldn't worry about "too hot", play the hottest part of the flame around the casing mouth for minute or so, I think. On my 200T I saw the inner paint/coating just start to beige etc. then I wacked them. I think @Mattyo has youtubed the odd demo, I think, using a torch for the heat.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I think that's what I was saying, go round and round, it's hotter than we really want, " darn hot"

Anyhow beer o clock for me... its a wet Sunday in more ways than one...
Cheers..

 

[MattG]

Guys, I'm happy to report that after considerable distractions, e.g. touching up bits of paint wrecked after my cack handed bearing install, that I've finally got the 12mm crank + new bearings + tractor-painted casings back together.

Behold:

The next thing to do, will probably be to fit the new seals or perhaps fit the jug and look at the squish clearance.

 

[Adamski]

Guys, I'm happy to report that after considerable distractions, e.g. touching up bits of paint wrecked after my cack handed bearing install, that I've finally got the 12mm crank + new bearings + tractor-painted casings back together.

Behold:
View attachment 90966
The next thing to do, will probably be to fit the new seals or perhaps fit the jug and look at the squish clearance.

Excellent! If the wife doesn't mind (and before you slip the seals in, no innuendo) throw it in the oven when the oven is cooling after dinner every chance you get. Bake Bake and then Bake that paint some more!

 

[MattG]

People,

I wanna ask you lot e.g. @MustangMike , @Canadian farm boy , @drf256 or anyone else for that matter for some advice on fitting the new seals. Being the impatient guy that I am, I forgot to measure, or photo the exact position that the seals should be drifted down to when I took the old ones out.

So starting with output side, should I drift the seal until the outer face (i.e. the one you see once they're installed) is basically flush with this outer bearing race (i.e. the plane that I've arrowed):


and similarly for the ignition side should I drift in to be flush with the surface that I've arrowed below? I.e. the recessed surface a few mil further in than the generator mounts?


As usual, any help / advice etc. appreciated.

Thanks Matt!

 

[MustangMike]

I'm not the expert, but usually they are in not quite enough to be flush, just sticking up a hair.

Anyone with better knowledge please chime in.

 

[Mattyo]

Matt....I'm pretty sure that's in my 440 vids somewhere. I put the seal flush...with a large socket. So the socket can't drive the seal in too far.

 

[MattG]

I'm not the expert, but usually they are in not quite enough to be flush, just sticking up a hair.

I put the seal flush...with a large socket. So the socket can't drive the seal in too far.

Thanks for your advice, guys. I PMed Canada Farm Boy - he pretty much echoed what you two have said.

Anyway, I'm gonna be a big girl, and I've gone and ordered the STIHL press sleeve tools. I ain't so worried with the output side, since like Matty says, a large socket will foul on the outer bearing race anyways.

The ign. side looks a little bit more horrid though. I've not inspected it properly yet, but, is it one of those Bakelite types like they use for 200Ts?

Do any of you fellas use sealant on the outer diameter of the seal or just a slip of grease to assist it's passage? No innuendo meant there!

 

[Mattyo]

Rubber...not bakelite

No need for stihl sleeves....cool tools but unnecessary.

Here is 660.... a little different but the coke can trick will help

And the 394 seals...

The 440 has that stupid bushing just like the 372xp....so the coke can trick applies when you are inserting the bushing. Take your time. Don't just shove it in there.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

If it's steel outer, as the ms260 is, then yep I've used a little sealant, smeared around the casings, just to be sure. But the ones I pulled out didn't have any sealant around them or the casings.
I,m sure the peeps that fit them all the time prolly don't use it.
I i have done a fs55 strimmer just by pushing it in, as it was a hard rubber.

 

[Adamski]

If it's steel outer, as the ms260 is, then yep I've used a little sealant, smeared around the casings, just to be sure. But the ones I pulled out didn't have any sealant around them or the casings.
I,m sure the peeps that fit them all the time prolly don't use it.
I i have done a fs55 strimmer just by pushing it in, as it was a hard rubber.

Loctite loc n seal is beautiful for stuff like this. It's as thin as oil and gets in all the places sealant gets pushed out of.