High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

044 hybrid build CFB style

Canadian farm boy

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I've always found that the 044 oil pump was pretty anemic. A saw that has the potential to pull a longer bar also needs to oil it so I modified the oil pump for more output.

Start by knocking out the roll pin and then pull the adjuster out. Next the plunger can be pulled out. Be careful not to lose the spring and washers.IMG_6381.JPG
Stock plunger rampIMG_6382.JPG
Stock adjuster buttonIMG_6383.JPG
 
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Here's the modified adjuster and plunger. Simply make the button smaller to allow for the longer stroke.IMG_6385.JPG
Modified plunger. All that needs to be done is to make the ramp angle steeper.IMG_6386.JPG

All back together again. IMG_6387.JPG

When modifying the adjuster and plunger you can use a small cut off wheel in a dremmel tool. Personally I use a cylindrical diamond burr.
The smoother you can get the surfaces the better.
 

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Because this saw will be a hybrid the top cover needs to be clearanced for the 046 cylinder.
First picture is before. Second picture is after. I like to add some foil tape to the underside of the cover to help insulate it from the muffler. Nobody likes burnt plastics.IMG_6389.JPG IMG_6390.JPG
 

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MustangMike

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He is right about the lever colors. Early saws (SN 120******) were black lever, then a run of red lever going into early 12 mm, then back to black.

The reason Stihl fans often ooohhh over the red lever saws is they generally correspond with some of the best running slant fin jugs that were on these saws. They don't always run stronger, but on average they do.

Most were 10 mm, but some of the early 12s ran very strong also.
 
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This is the muffler mod I like to do. This started out as a 046 muffler. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the baffle. I personally prefer the 046 muffler over the 044 because of the shape and size of the factory deflector. No spark screens in this muffler mod.IMG_5792.JPG IMG_5793.JPG IMG_5794.JPG IMG_5796.JPG
 
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