Duke Thieroff
Fill your hands you SOB!
- Local time
- 3:23 AM
- User ID
- 8281
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 590
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- Location
- Beaver County, PA
This is a common style rig found in a lot of older American saws and a major drawback when it comes to rebuilding them because of the added complication of taking them apart.
A few examples:
Homelite 330
Homelite 350, 360, 450, 550, 650, 750
Poulan 3400,3700,3800,4000 etc
Mac 10-series
Mac 600 Series
Mac Large Frame
I started doing so research and found that there really is no reliable source of new or home-brew tools and I am a major fan of making simple off the shelf solutions that work. We have some things in the works that are going to require some tool solutions for guys so I set out to work on figuring out this little problem.
After a little research I came across a tool called called simply "Wrist Pin Extractor Removal Tool." They're all over internet through all major reseller marketplaces for $10-20. It seems no matter the brand they're all the same design. The unfortunate things is that they are mainly designed with the ATV/Motorcycle market in mind and come with an M8-1.25x70mm Socket Cap Screw as the extractor. They M8 head measures 12mm which is generally too large for all applications in chainsaws.
It was a little bit of a letdown when I got it in and found it wouldn't work for what I needed it to so I got to brainstorming the solution and after some research I determined that I could probably get by with an E-Z Lock thread insert (M5-0.8ID x M8-1.25OD) and an M5-0.8x70mm socket cap screw. You'll have to do some measurements yourself and decide on whether or not you want to step down to an M5 or M6 for your particular application. I'm sure you could run them both into the barrel with the M5 in first to have a truly modular setup.
For this demonstration I'm going to use a junked Mac 10 or 6xx something. Had to do a little bit of shimming (just a folded up kraft paper box) because of the design of the piston. I ran with the M5 screw here. It seems these are big enough you could get away with an M6 with proper insert if you wanted to. You may even want to line the tool side with something a little softer as well because the tool is made out of steel and could potentially damage your piston. There's a TON of different ways you could go with that.
Gotta fool around a bit just to make sure you're lined up and start cranking her down.
A few examples:
Homelite 330
Homelite 350, 360, 450, 550, 650, 750
Poulan 3400,3700,3800,4000 etc
Mac 10-series
Mac 600 Series
Mac Large Frame
I started doing so research and found that there really is no reliable source of new or home-brew tools and I am a major fan of making simple off the shelf solutions that work. We have some things in the works that are going to require some tool solutions for guys so I set out to work on figuring out this little problem.
After a little research I came across a tool called called simply "Wrist Pin Extractor Removal Tool." They're all over internet through all major reseller marketplaces for $10-20. It seems no matter the brand they're all the same design. The unfortunate things is that they are mainly designed with the ATV/Motorcycle market in mind and come with an M8-1.25x70mm Socket Cap Screw as the extractor. They M8 head measures 12mm which is generally too large for all applications in chainsaws.
It was a little bit of a letdown when I got it in and found it wouldn't work for what I needed it to so I got to brainstorming the solution and after some research I determined that I could probably get by with an E-Z Lock thread insert (M5-0.8ID x M8-1.25OD) and an M5-0.8x70mm socket cap screw. You'll have to do some measurements yourself and decide on whether or not you want to step down to an M5 or M6 for your particular application. I'm sure you could run them both into the barrel with the M5 in first to have a truly modular setup.
For this demonstration I'm going to use a junked Mac 10 or 6xx something. Had to do a little bit of shimming (just a folded up kraft paper box) because of the design of the piston. I ran with the M5 screw here. It seems these are big enough you could get away with an M6 with proper insert if you wanted to. You may even want to line the tool side with something a little softer as well because the tool is made out of steel and could potentially damage your piston. There's a TON of different ways you could go with that.
Gotta fool around a bit just to make sure you're lined up and start cranking her down.