Wrist Pins.......

[Terry Syd]

I’ll see if I can borrow the wife’s digital scale

There appears to be considerable difference in the weights of those two pins. When you have the weight difference, think about how much more steel weighs than aluminum and how much metal you would have to take off the piston to match the reduction in weight of the lighter wrist pin.

I've always used the lightest pins available and have even tapered some to trim off more weight. In all the years I been around engines, I've never seen a wrist pin failure - rods and pistons, yes, but never a wrist pin.

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

Sure is.
But @ $19.49, I don’t need it that badly.
I could run the Meteor pin and probably never tell the difference as that’s what came included in the piston kit. I also have what appears to be a perfectly fine used OEM pin.

My intentions with this saw is to be as frugal as possible. I have a wife and 2 small children with special dietary needs so 99% of the time, money is pretty tight.

I’d also like to get as much performance out of this saw as I can, because someday......I plan on turning it into a pipe saw. Or at least I’d like to.

Understand? Smell what I’m stepping in?
Gnome sayin?

No I don't because I don't smell peoples feet. Money is tight for everyone, plus you're asking for advise. The used pin you have pictured is already showing signs of wear and I wouldn't use it...especially in a future race build.
If you're going to spend any money at all it had better count and most of the time the only way to do that is to spend a few extra bucks.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

No I don't because I don't smell peoples feet. Money is tight for everyone, plus you're asking for advise. The used pin you have pictured is already showing signs of wear and I wouldn't use it...especially in a future race build.
If you're going to spend any money at all it had better count and most of the time the only way to do that is to spend a few extra bucks.

Got $20 I can borrow?

No really, I’ve already got the answer I was looking for by members in this thread I’ve known and trusted for a long time.

If I go the pipe saw route, it’s something that will get minimal run time. Perhaps 10-20min run time per year? Maybe....if that.
If I were a logger or even a guy that depended on a saw for heat or income, I think you’re absolutely correct.....buy a new pin.
But I already have (2) brand new never used Meteor pins. So why wouldn’t those work...in a work saw? They would.

 

[Deets066]

I'd run the oem

 

[Termitebuffet]

If it's smooth and there's no spots that can catch a nail, then I'd re-use it. I've found a lot of the time that the used OEM wrist pin is a better fit in a new Meteor piston than the new Meteor wrist pin is.

This ^^^^

 

[Al Smith]

Now here comes the 64 thousand dollar question .Does it make that much difference overall ?The lighter pin might make some difference in how fast it spools up .However just like heavy flywheel once it gets to speed the rotating mass is potential energy until you put some resistance to it .Then it turns into kinetic energy .Just a thought ---

 

[Termitebuffet]

I'd use the oem if it's smooth. Dem meteor pins are way heavier

And this^^^^^

 

[Termitebuffet]

I always reuse OEM pins Jer.

I've got a bunch of new-in-package Meteor 026 pins around my shop.

Some aren't the same size as OEM. The 046 Meteor pin is longer and heavier than the OEM, so I stay with the matched pin on that saw.

And this ^^^^^

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Now here comes the 64 thousand dollar question .Does it make that much difference overall ?The lighter pin might make some difference in how fast it spools up .However just like heavy flywheel once it gets to speed the rotating mass is potential energy until you put some resistance to it .Then it turns into kinetic energy .Just a thought ---

Gotcha there.....rotating mass and reciprocating mass are two different forces.

 

[Deets066]

Now here comes the 64 thousand dollar question .Does it make that much difference overall ?The lighter pin might make some difference in how fast it spools up .However just like heavy flywheel once it gets to speed the rotating mass is potential energy until you put some resistance to it .Then it turns into kinetic energy .Just a thought ---

I don't see the piston weight as kinetic energy. As it starts and stops. The heavier it is, the harder it is on the bottom end.

 

[Termitebuffet]

I'd run the oem

This ^^^^

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Feeling lots of love right now

 

[Adirondackstihl]

I don't see the piston weight as kinetic energy. As it starts and stops. The heavier it is, the harder it is on the bottom end.

Agreed
The lighter the reciprocal weight, the better.
And I don’t math real good, not good engrish sometimes too.

 

[Termitebuffet]

Feeling lots of love right now

Hey ...if it grenades we fix ...no worries [emoji106]

 

[Termitebuffet]

Agreed
The lighter the reciprocal weight, the better.
And I don’t math real good, not good engrish sometimes too.

Just kept practice. ..you better will get .....he he he ...[emoji106]

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Hey ...if it grenades we fix ...no worries [emoji106]

 

[jacob j.]

Now here comes the 64 thousand dollar question .Does it make that much difference overall ?The lighter pin might make some difference in how fast it spools up .However just like heavy flywheel once it gets to speed the rotating mass is potential energy until you put some resistance to it .Then it turns into kinetic energy .Just a thought ---

I've always wondered about that Al. As you know, McCulloch offered up to .050" over pistons for certain engines and say, a .050" over piston for a 125 is a lot heavier than the standard sized slug. Even a .030" over piston is quite a bit heavier. My dad had several 125 and 101 over-bore engines in his saws and he never really said anything about spool-up or more torque in the cut. But in his case bar length was probably a factor as he was running 42" and 60" bars.

I know making the reciprocating assembly lighter in some modern saws like the 066/660 can reduce vibration to a point or change the frequency of vibration so it's easier on your hands.

 

[twinstaged]

if the hardness checked out ok on the meteor pin I would machine it and make a good tapered pin. If money is tight and you have a good machine setup might as well make use of it.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

if the hardness checked out ok on the meteor pin I would machine it and make a good tapered pin. If money is tight and you have a good machine setup might as well make use of it.

I could send it to my father for machining if I really wanted to.
But the cost of shipping to and from Florida would sorta negate the purpose.

 

[Sty57]

This ^^^^

And this^^^^^

And this ^^^^^

This ^^^^

You're a wealth of knowledge Sir, thanks for sharing.