What bar oil is best and stuff?

[Moparmyway]

There us zero tackyness with vegetable oil. I think if Stihl or Husqvarna or Dolkita wanted us to use vegetable oil they would have said so.
It may work for you in a pinch in the great white north, but it's not for everyone.
I sometimes cut the bar oil with a small amount of diesel in colder months to get better flow.
Maybe if you just use a little vegetable oil and cut with real bar oil you'd be better off, No?

Don’t take him too seriously Jeefus, if it doesn’t try to prop up his business, he won’t post about it.

 

[00wyk]

That's more bar oil than I have used in my entire life...

You are missing out. The stuff tastes fantastic.
Also, I pee in my oil so I can smell it to know it works, and so the wildlife and the natives all know that THESE ARE MY TREES!

 

[00wyk]

There is zero tackyness with vegetable oil. I think if Stihl or Husqvarna or Dolkita wanted us to use vegetable oil they would have said so.
It may work for you in a pinch in the great white north, but it's not for everyone.
I sometimes cut the bar oil with a small amount of diesel in colder months to get better flow.
Maybe if you just use a little vegetable oil and cut with real bar oil you'd be better off, No?

If it's hot out, I can see why you'd be worried about tackyness. But the hottest I've ever seen a bar measure is 200*F. That is nowhere near hot enough to bake off rapeseed or canola, and the film strength is enough that it obviously works for a bar oil. I would only worried about tacky if you are working in wildland firefighting or some such, really.
And, remember, the more tacky the oil is - the less of it gets pumped on to the bar.
You will go through rapeseed faster. On my 044 it is nearly even with fuel usage.

Like I said, 8 years of using straight store-bought rapeseed here on ported saws without any damage to my bars you wouldn't see with tacky oil.

This bar is nearly two years old now and still working great:

And I still own this bar as a back up(this video is from 2015):

 

[CrystalRiver1]

How about this stuff?:

* PRO SELECT 32-oz Conventional Bar and Chain Oil
* MasterPro Conventional Bar And Chain Oil

 

[Wilhelm]

The "tackyness" and importance of "true specially formulated" B&C oil is overrated, pure marketing propaganda.
But, each to their own.

 

[RI Chevy]

How about this stuff?:

* PRO SELECT 32-oz Conventional Bar and Chain Oil
* MasterPro Conventional Bar And Chain Oil

If it's rated for use on chainsaw bars, run it Reggie...

 

[66Fleetside]

I have learned that for my saw, oil that “flows” is better than oil that “sticks.” And that seems to hold true in hot weather, not just cold.

Specific example: Echo bar oil is super thick and sticky and I once assumed that was good. It’s not. Not for me anyway. Doesn’t flow worth a darn. A splash of diesel fuel improves it.

Cheap, farm store brand seems to run better and keep the bar cooler.

 

[Wolverine]

The tack factor... can someone help me here? I was using my blend on some very large stuff today. I had plenty of lube on the chain. I can’t grasp how it helps really. I guess I get it. How bout all the canola oil lovers.

Tack factor.. The ability of the lube to stay on the chain as (mostly centrifugal in this case) force tries to fling it off as it goes around the tip. No tack, majority of said lube just flings right off. Your cutting primarily at the furthest spot from where oil is applied to the bar.
I've milled with a longer bar and tried a nonspecific oil. Pretty much roasted said bars rails. It was too late at that point, but I learned a valuable lesson.

"What bar oil is bestested?"

The kind that makes it from the oil tank onto the chain, consistently.

Key point Kenny, you want some of that to make it around the tip when the chain is at full speed. Betcha more of my tackified stuff is making the trip compared to vegetable oil.


Can someone do a fling test? Maybe with a piece of paper/cardboard and point the bar at it, then wot for 10 seconds and show the results? If my heavily tackified oil sticks better to the chain, I can turn my oiler way back. So many variables.

 

[RI Chevy]

See. And everybody loves to hate on me... Go figure.

 

[jakethesnake]

See. And everybody loves to hate on me... Go figure.

Pipe down clam man

 

[jakethesnake]

I use hydraulic fluid. Because I have it around.

 

[jakethesnake]

The oil is meant to lube the rivets and is pumped onto the drivers. If it’s flinging off you have plenty on there. The wood itself is what pulls the oil out of the chain.

I don’t believe in tac

as you’ll see many on here agree with me. Many also disagree. That’s super cool w me.
That said if I didn’t have access to fluids I would buy a case or two of the cheapest bar oil I could find. Cause it lubes the chain by pumping it to the drives.

 

[jakethesnake]

I’d use any of the veggie oils just don’t leave it in the tank. I haven’t had any large clearing jobs this year but as much as I’ve done

maybe 5 acres or more a few times in life I’m not too picky about chain lube. I like to use lots of it. Other than that so long as it flows well. Still happy

 

[Wolverine]

Certain additives in lubes/oils make it stick at different rates. There really is no debate. I'm not trying to say what you do is wrong... whatever you find best, do it.
The more your bar lubricant sticks to the chain, the less you need to apply.

Start at 1:48 if it doesn't automatically.

 

[RI Chevy]

Cool video. We all run and use what we feel is best. Your equipment. Your money. Your ideas. Your actions.
I'll keep running bar oil.

 

[00wyk]

Cool video. We all run and use what we feel is best. Your equipment. Your money. Your ideas. Your actions.
I'll keep running bar oil.

If I ran what I felt was best, it would be fully synthetic 15-50 mobil 1. But that is a terrible thing to put in to the water or the earth, and it is €25/litre here. So, like everything in life, it's a compromise. I mean, you can't run bio oil in the mix anyways, so you're polluting no matter how you cut it. I just don't see a reason to throw oil directly on to the earth when I can help it, and since it's dirt cheap, it is painless.

But that will all end soon enough when 2t motors are completely banned, anyways. Bio oil is already required in many places. Some councils and towns only allow electric devices within city limits now, too. We have electric cars on the roads, with trucks about to debut. The ole combustion engine had a good run. I'll miss it.

 

[Sawrain]

Certain additives in lubes/oils make it stick at different rates. There really is no debate. I'm not trying to say what you do is wrong... whatever you find best, do it.
The more your bar lubricant sticks to the chain, the less you need to apply.

Start at 1:48 if it doesn't automatically.

I know it's not your point, but I would not be using that oil, or lucas oil stabilizer in anything that was not on it's last legs.

In regards to bar oil, tack (adhesion/cohesion) probably helps, but most surely helps marketing/selling more, people love a super tacky stringy oil.

However I know a few people running up to 32" bars, falling and bucking, not milling, with thin hydraulic oil though that don't seem to have problems with excess wear, enough evidence for me to at least question the effects of different oils used for bar oiling.

As a bar will see many times it's initial purchase price of oil get pumped through it I can see validity in the viewpoint of just run what is cheapest, as a half price oil and reduction in bar life of 10% is an economic win, the bigger question to me would be health and environmental impacts.

 

[RI Chevy]

Maybe someone could try mixing in some KY in their bar oil and report back. Lol

 

[00wyk]

Certain additives in lubes/oils make it stick at different rates. There really is no debate. I'm not trying to say what you do is wrong... whatever you find best, do it.
The more your bar lubricant sticks to the chain, the less you need to apply.

Start at 1:48 if it doesn't automatically.

Thanks for that. But the problem is, proof is in the pudding - not a plastic toy. I see your video and I'll respond with my own.

You saw my previous videos - one of them is showing a finger-ported, 210PSI hot rod that Mastermind made chewing up wood faster than anything most guys own. You uys are familiar with Randy's work. Rapeseed the last 8 years, all my saws - no issues. Not a single one.

That was a hot rodded big bore 2165 in beech in a 2014 video. That saw is still doing work(though it's run a bit richer in work). Pure rapeseed since 2014.

Another thing most folks aren't aware of is the fact rapeseed oil was originally developed as a metal lubricant - not a french frying oil. Only later when more of the acids were removed was it palatable. Before then, and during WWII, rapeseed was used to lubricate locomotives due to it's resistance to shedding/shearing, especially when it encountered other oils or water. In fact, rapeseed clings to metal surfaces better than most other oils even when it encouters steam.

No plastic here(and this is a tiny percent of the work I do):

OK, so there's a new bar on this one here

 

[RI Chevy]

If it works for you, then keep doing it. [emoji106]