What B&C for stumping?

[wap13]

Recently been needing to flush cut quite a few stumps and figured it would be wise to get a solid (like stihl es) bar and stop using my light weight stihl bars.

Right now I am using a 661 but hope to add a 395 to the mix also. I currently use a 28 or 32 with 3/8s 0.063 on my MMWS 661.

My questions are

1 Should I step up to .404? All my saws run 3/8s except my 261 if that matters.

2 What bar? I currently have another 661 on order and can get it with any bar. I figured I would get it in .375 or .404 (depending on the replies here) and go with a 32 or 36. The 32 has been fine but IF I went to .404 I could go to 36 since it would require its own chains and wouldn't share chains with my 32" bar.

I'm sure I missed something but any info or advice is appreciated.

 

[Thumper88]

I used an for flush cutting big stumps for awhile. I used a 41” Cannon and a 36” Stihl hard nose bar both running .404 full comp, semi chisel. Stumping is extremely hard on bars and I would definitely consider a hard nose since they tend to deal with dirt and crud better. Barring a hard nose I would use the cheapest bar possible and replace it often. I think .404 is definitely an advantage in the nasty stuff, and full comp semi chisel gives you the best possible cutter life short of a carbide chain.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

I used an for flush cutting big stumps for awhile. I used a 41” Cannon and a 36” Stihl hard nose bar both running .404 full comp, semi chisel. Stumping is extremely hard on bars and I would definitely consider a hard nose since they tend to deal with dirt and crud better. Barring a hard nose I would use the cheapest bar possible and replace it often. I think .404 is definitely an advantage in the nasty stuff, and full comp semi chisel gives you the best possible cutter life short of a carbide chain.

Good call with the hard nose!


I find the 28 gets most stumps for medium/smaller trees. A 36 would be ideal IMO for most stumps

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

I'm going to be the odd guy on this one. But stumping is one of the few times I would rather have a bar on the short side. Normally a 20" or 24" is my preference. My thinking is if I can keep the nose of the bar in the wood. It will bring less dirt into the cut keeping it sharp longer. 2nd it's a lot less chain to sharpen when needed. Easier on the powerhead as well.

Actually have a 16" hard nose that works well on a beater 362 for stumps. Like that setup as it cuts fairly quick and is super lightweight. Only downside it has right now is it doesn't have a outside spike yet.

The downside of the shorter bar is it is more likely to kick back.

I prefer to cut from one side of the log when bucking but for whatever reason. Walking a saw around a stump doesn't bother me any. Go figure.


Steven

 

[deye223]

24" 404 semi ..... I use 46RM for stumping and if it piped and full of *s-word I use a hard nose STIHL Ebar

 

[Skeans1]

Recently been needing to flush cut quite a few stumps and figured it would be wise to get a solid (like stihl es) bar and stop using my light weight stihl bars.

Right now I am using a 661 but hope to add a 395 to the mix also. I currently use a 28 or 32 with 3/8s 0.063 on my MMWS 661.

My questions are

1 Should I step up to .404? All my saws run 3/8s except my 261 if that matters.

2 What bar? I currently have another 661 on order and can get it with any bar. I figured I would get it in .375 or .404 (depending on the replies here) and go with a 32 or 36. The 32 has been fine but IF I went to .404 I could go to 36 since it would require its own chains and wouldn't share chains with my 32" bar.

I'm sure I missed something but any info or advice is appreciated.

If it was me I’d stay 3/8’s one it’d be cheaper in the long haul with the ability to buy a roll of all the same chain.

To the light weight bars I don’t see a problem with using them for the purpose, I cut timber for a living and use a 32 or 36 a good share of the time and never had an issue. One thing that we do a lot on the west coast when falling timber is popping faces out with the bar which can get hard on a bar and spring mounts. With doing this the only bar I’ve had issues with is an Oregon light weight 36 I’ve tweaked it a time or two doing this but so far since I’ve switched to Stihl light weight bars I haven’t had an issue.

If you do go to the 395’s don’t be afraid to put a longer bar then a 36 on it, it’s not uncommon for mine to have a 42 and once in a great while a 60 on it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dub11]

Food for thought, if you're going to be close to the truck then why not use a RSN bar. Less drag certainly has to be better in the long run.

 

[wap13]

RSN? Round Solid Nose?

And yes I almost always can drive up to whatever I am cutting.

I was thinking of getting away from the LW bars not so much from fear of bending them but just the grit and stuff form stumping has to be abrasive and a solid bar is cheaper to replace. And I am just a hobby guy, not like I a stumping daily or even weakly but like the have the tool for the job when the job calls for it.

 

[Dub11]

RSN? Round Solid Nose?

And yes I almost always can drive up to whatever I am cutting.

I was thinking of getting away from the LW bars not so much from fear of bending them but just the grit and stuff form stumping has to be abrasive and a solid bar is cheaper to replace. And I am just a hobby guy, not like I a stumping daily or even weakly but like the have the tool for the job when the job calls for it.

Replaceable Sprocket Nose.

 

[wap13]

Thanks.

That was what I had in mind. The ES bars I have had in the past where all sprocket nose

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I used a 36" bar with 404 semi chisel skip. Mounted on a Homelite super 1050A.
It was cheaper to get a loop of .404 and a Oregon 3/8ths bar from Amazon then convert it to 404 a nose.
The semi chisel. 404 is very durable and honestly for stumping it lasts , helps to have a thumb oiler supplement.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I used a 36" bar with 404 semi chisel skip. Mounted on a Homelite super 1050A.
It was cheaper to get a loop of .404 and a Oregon 3/8ths bar from Amazon then convert it to 404 a nose.
The semi chisel. 404 is very durable and honestly for stumping it lasts , helps to have a thumb oiler supplement.

I almost did this with a 42. Ended up getting bigger saws. They pull 42-60's.
I prefer to have a 660 stumping hardwoods. Used to use a 20" Total 3/8" 050 hard nose semi loop. Switched now to 404 full comp semi loop 28" Oregon, my short dirty wood milling bar.
404 is the chit in dirty nasty metal and sand. Next one up is the beat up 36" es full comp but S1 mount. I've used the 42" and the 60" pia. You start with the 20 or 28 if your smart imo. Only reason to move up is you have run out of bar on the flair of a flush cut... no grinder. Big maples most times.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I almost did this with a 42. Ended up getting bigger saws. They pull 42-60's.
I prefer to have a 660 stumping hardwoods. Used to use a 20" Total 3/8" 050 hard nose semi loop. Switched now to 404 full comp semi loop 28" Oregon, my short dirty wood milling bar.
404 is the chit in dirty nasty metal and sand. Next one up is the beat up 36" es full comp but S1 mount. I've used the 42" and the 60" pia. You start with the 20 or 28 if your smart imo. Only reason to move up is you have run out of bar on the flair of a flush cut... no grinder. Big maples most times.

Well I started with the 36 because it was a "Damaged " return to Amazon, and I think that was 42.00 shipped.
I did get a perfect 24" Homelite perma-tip with the saw but sent it to another member here for less abusive conditions.
But yeah I've plowed some sh¡t with .404 that would have ruined a 3/8ths chain.

 

[huskyhank]

Really no reason to ruin a bar when flush cutting a stump. Chains on the other hand are gonna get wrecked sometimes. The main things are prepping the stump and knowing when to stop.

Dig out all around the stump any place where the chain may hit dirt and dig a depression for the powerhead to have clearance. Brush away all the dirt you can. If there is something hidden in the stump you just have to find out. This is where knowing when to stop comes in. If it stops cutting freely, stop and look at whats going on.

If you hit a hidden object, stop right away. You’ll know when it happens so just stop. A railroad spike, chunk of concrete or a section of motorcycle chain will wreck any kind of regular chain. (I’ve hit all three) But you can often keep from killing the chain by stopping immediately when you sense trouble. Stop quick enough and you may be able to bring the chain back to life. Keep hossing it and kill the chain and maybe the bar.

Try to refigure your cut and maybe pull back and go back in to cut the clean part saving the obstruction for last. Then maybe bust it out with a maul or sledge. I’ve cut plenty of stumps in nice yards left from cutting trees for milling. If you dig out a little you can end up with a stump that is dead flush or maybe a little below the lawn surface. If you’re real careful you won’t wreck your equipment too much.