HELP! Tuning issues

[SawAddictedFarmer]

So here's my issue ive got a stock 362 I'd like to muffler mod. But how do you tune it then? Right now I'm just tuning by tach. I wish I could just go by ear but how do you do that with rev limited coil?

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Anybody have input on the unlimited coils from Wolf Creek Saw? Good? Chinese junk? I know when I asked Randy about them he was pretty against them and said he won't buy aftermarket coils except as a very last option.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

So here's my issue ive got a stock 362 I'd like to muffler mod. But how do you tune it then? Right now I'm just tuning by tach. I wish I could just go by ear but how do you do that with rev limited coil?

Opening up a muffler will let the saw breathe and wot rpm’s will go up.
All you have to do is open the H screw to drop things back to normal.
If an mtronic…the saw will adjust itself.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Anybody have input on the unlimited coils from Wolf Creek Saw? Good? Chinese junk? I know when I asked Randy about them he was pretty against them and said he won't buy aftermarket coils except as a very last option.

Don’t know where they are getting them. I would call them and find out. They may be getting them from other than Chicom.

 

[Ronaldo]

Tune your saw under load in a good size log. Be sure it’s good and warmed up to operating temp. Get into a cut and lift the bar to take the load off and listen for the “burble” two stroking sound, then get back into the cut under load and the sound should “clean up” and not be stumbling, etc. Very hard to explain in words. Look up some you tube videos and you can hear the difference.

 

[huskihl]

Tune for the highest RPM in the cut and then back the H jet out just a little bit.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Opening up a muffler will let the saw breathe and wot rpm’s will go up.
All you have to do is open the H screw to drop things back to normal.
If an mtronic…the saw will adjust itself.

It's not mtronic. I know that leaner is faster to a point and I'm going to have to richen it back out.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Tune for the highest RPM in the cut and then back the H jet out just a little bit.

Good grief, I should be smart enough to figure that out myself! Thanks!

 

[davidwyby]

 

[Ronaldo]

That’s it! A video's worth a thousand words!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Well, hell…gonna need to try that tomorrow. My neighbors will love it.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

As previously stated, have the saw completely warmed up. It will seem to lean out as heat builds up in the bottom end. Also, cold air is more dense and holds more oxygen thus requiring more fuel. Richer tune.
eta Read up on how to defeat the limiter caps on mixture screws

 

[Duane(Pa)]

Your tach will probably go nuts at the rev limiter RPM.

Another vid

 

[davidwyby]

Shame he quit doing saws n vids.

He ported my red 357
@Benwa

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Just finished watching these and got it tuned. Thanks everyone for the help! After watching the great videos posted it was easy.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Your tach will probably go nuts at the rev limiter RPM.

Mine just locks on 13900.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

So how's this?

 

[Duane(Pa)]

View attachment 475094View attachment 475095
So how's this?

About perfect if you ask me

 

[dangerousatom]

Depends on how many hours are on the plug. To me it looks like its new with one tank of gas but running well. Minimal carbon and the ceramic of the electrode is not oily.

The temp of the cylinder will show in the plug as well, particularly if things are running too hot. You will get white build up like a granular dust on the electrode and inside the plug. This is usually from things leaning out because of repeated heat building up and or your mix is a little on the light side of oil to fuel.

Just off the plugs look Id keep cutting with it just as it is, if its running well. You'll get to know where it wants to run by ear and feel the more you use it

Like others mentioned, get a TAC to tune the saws RPMs in the cut with you leaning on it. Maybe 10-15lbs of pressure when the bars at least 3/4 burred in a log. The non electronic carb saws I have are all tuned to around 11500 in the cut. They are work saws not speed queens, so I keep them at a safe working RPM. Some want to whined way out to over 15k out of the cut so I know not to get all "throttle jockey" with them.

 

[SawAddictedFarmer]

Depends on how many hours are on the plug. To me it looks like its new with one tank of gas but running well. Minimal carbon and the ceramic of the electrode is not oily.

The temp of the cylinder will show in the plug as well, particularly if things are running too hot. You will get white build up like a granular dust on the electrode and inside the plug. This is usually from things leaning out because of repeated heat building up and or your mix is a little on the light side of oil to fuel.

Just off the plugs look Id keep cutting with it just as it is, if its running well. You'll get to know where it wants to run by ear and feel the more you use it

Like others mentioned, get a TAC to tune the saws RPMs in the cut with you leaning on it. Maybe 10-15lbs of pressure when the bars at least 3/4 burred in a log. The non electronic carb saws I have are all tuned to around 11500 in the cut. They are work saws not speed queens, so I keep them at a safe working RPM. Some want to whined way out to over 15k out of the cut so I know not to get all "throttle jockey" with them.

I can't remember if I when I replaced that one. Sometime in the last year. It's had a couple days of hard cutting since being tuned, probably 7-8 tanks. Before I tuned it it was way rich, hence the carbon on the rim that has started coming off. 32:1 since tuning.