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Catbuster

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Looks to be hard on roads as well.

That machine… Well, it is. A 336 on a short undercarriage (an F model, not an F L) with 27” steel triple bar pads is going to make a big mess compared to a long carriage on 36” pads. Street (bolt on rubber) bads can make a hoe like that easier on roads than rubber tires in a straight line.

That was clearing for a slide stabilization project. The road’s sloughing off, and that asphalt comes up, the road gets regraded after we build a big retaining wall and then repaved anyway. Otherwise we would have asked for a long carriage on wide pads. That machine we can usually get away with just a mill and overlay.
 
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Nutball

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Those darn short fiber trees like gravity too much. They never initiate the fall until you’ve already taken too much hinge. Then it just tears sideways and goes straight for the lean.
I've found white oak challenging in that way. I did 5 recently, and still don't have a good method dialled in.
 

afleetcommand

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As I recall, he trims a flare off vertically to function as a shallow face and doesn’t lose wood from the log.
Yup I don't loose anything according to the log buyers to this point as I do try & keep the hinge out of the "money" and in the trim. AND those larger trees can be a pita to trim root flares after that side is on the ground. So by doing that I'm not only having a lot of face angle to keep the hinge from going into tension when the face closes, but I don't need to try and trim THAT side when its face down on the ground. Which often would drag a trench when I skid as well, a third reason I do what I do. Also some tree's don't need the open face, you might see other types of cut on the channel from bore cut everything but three points, do vertical cuts on those "root flare " locations to release the tree. Usually don't show that type of thing on the channel. Don't want folks attempting w/o understanding of the physics .

Another point that has come to my attention is about saw weight, Doing what I do doesn't require me to be shimmy shake hustling around the tree as I work around the back cut. Face cut from one side where the cut is a down cut on all but the hill sides where Humboldt's happen & work from the other side from one position to bore cut all the way thru and then cut back to the hinge, THEN stand up looks & let the trigger go. During the bore cut the saw is in the tree, Weight doesn't matter as much, why the g395 was a favorite, power is. When I go back to my "old" ways , weight is everything as I don't move as a kid anymore. and don't like moving around the tree all bent over.
 
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TheDarkLordChinChin

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Yup I don't loose anything according to the log buyers to this point as I do try & keep the hinge out of the "money" and in the trim. AND those larger trees can be a pita to trim root flares after that side is on the ground. So by doing that I'm not only having a lot of face angle to keep the hinge from going into tension when the face closes, but I don't need to try and trim THAT side when its face down on the ground. Which often would drag a trench when I skid as well, a third reason I do what I do. Also some tree's don't need the open face, you might see other types of cut on the channel from bore cut everything but three points, do vertical cuts on those "root flare " locations to release the tree. Usually don't show that type of thing on the channel. Don't want folks attempting w/o understanding of the physics .

Another point that has come to my attention is about saw weight, Doing what I do doesn't require me to be shimmy shake hustling around the tree as I work around the back cut. Face cut from one side where the cut is a down cut on all but the hill sides where Humboldt's happen & work from the other side from one position to bore cut all the way thru and then cut back to the hinge, THEN stand up looks & let the trigger go. During the bore cut the saw is in the tree, Weight doesn't matter as much, why the g395 was a favorite, power is. When I go back to my "old" ways , weight is everything as I don't move as a kid anymore. and don't like moving around the tree all bent over.
I have to say I have seen some very nice felling cuts on your channel.
Very neat and professional.
 

davidwyby

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I had a bunch of fun/testing today. @Trains is prolly gonna kill me 😆

This didn’t work. It’s called a triple hinge, dummy. Not a five hinge. Or maybe it was just too brittle. This species seems especially brittle, and or we didn’t get any monsoon rains in a long hot summer.

IMG_9535.jpeg

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This crazy thing actually did work.

IMG_9545.jpeg
 

davidwyby

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Maybe you just got lucky on that one?

What were you thinking when trying that?

Only the sap wood flexes at all. Idea was to make a collapsing face to slow the fall. Kinda did, and kinda hung on. I have a bunch of video to post when I get a chance. The dark red heart wood on these trees is hard and brittle as a pretzel stick.

Video from a while back, first tree of the bunch.

 

Nutball

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Maybe if you deep steam cleaned your quintuple hinge, as well as making the hinge slits much longer, it might flex and hold on well.
 

TheDarkLordChinChin

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I have always wanted to go to Canada and be a west coast faller.
Today my dream came true, except I only had to travel as far as county sligo and not vancouver island.


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Ms 460 with 28 inch bar doing the job. I could have done with a much longer bar to be honest but my 30 inch bar isn't fixed yet and the 084 with 36 is just to heavy and awkward for using in tight spots like that.



 

TheDarkLordChinChin

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I have always wanted to go to Canada and be a west coast faller.
Today my dream came true, except I only had to travel as far as county sligo and not vancouver island.


View attachment 440888View attachment 440889View attachment 440890View attachment 440891





Ms 460 with 28 inch bar doing the job. I could have done with a much longer bar to be honest but my 30 inch bar isn't fixed yet and the 084 with 36 is just to heavy and awkward for using in tight spots like that.



From the same job.
These damn ceders often grow really crooked like this here


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