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Trees you've cut

TX_Welder

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Only picture I got of this one. Got a video but i cant load it here. 20230701_194225.jpgPretty good size elm on my uncles place. It up and died last year and we've got some potential weather coming this week so he wanted it down. Probably 30" across the stump. Had a really wide face cut because in terrible at lining up an undercut. Went right where I shot it and right where my uncle wanted it though so it worked out. Shot it pretty much straight away from where the pic was taken, maybe just a touch right.

The limb kicking out to the left had to pass through the top of that smaller tree. We figured it would snap off but it didn't. Wiped out about half the top. Couldn't shoot it more to the right because he's got a little silver leaf maple planted over there and we didn't want to smash it.
 

HumBurner

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I cut the tree in "A Charlie Brown Christmas"
What was seen in the documentary was a reenactment.

Some jobs, the biggest thing we might cut is 3-6" in diameter. Some jobs it's all blackberry and huckleberry. Some jobs are hazard days tackling 3-4' dead standing. Some days it's all shimmying and slashing through a pecker-pole forest.

There's an art to cutting sprouts/resprouts and knowing how to pull/uproot them manually.
 

BonScott46

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How often do you get wedge split like that?
Not often, if i am wedging in the flare i trim it flat. It didn’t look like i was in the flare but it split anyways, i was surprised. I also thought i was going to have to wedge a bit more than i did.
 

Kerfed

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Climbing dead trees is a slow process, and you need to be 100% familiar with that species and how rotten it is. Reg Coates has a few informative videos on it. Sound out the wood as you go, have a skilled worker on the ground, be ready to bail on a dime.
 

Agr516

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Not a tree i cut down but one i cut the stump off of. Little over 5’ dead red oak trunk that had been pulled over with a skidder. Used my MMWS 394 with 36” bar. I dont get to use that saw often but it is fun when i do.
 

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HumBurner

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A memorable one considering the chain and how wood started breaking out the back. Saw is running a bark box and 8 pin, would have handled the chain better with a 7 and smaller dawgs.
Driving long banana wedges in from the side, like you did at the end, gives you easier and more gradual lift over distance compared to the shorter/shorty wedges being driven in directly from the back.

Unless it's a shorty going in to hold the kerf, I mostly wedge with the long ones. You can always use a shorty to aid and/or give additional steering to the fall.


I'm not familiar with Beech, but why such a shallow face cut? Was there significant back lean and/or limbweight?
 

HumBurner

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440 and CS-500P are getting ready to conquer this one. In the shade. B-)

View attachment 382890


How do you like the 500p?

There was one at the pawn shop this past weekend, for ~$200. It had poor compression per the drop test, so I set it back down. Seemed like a light enough and nimble little saw.
 

FergusonTO35

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How do you like the 500p?

There was one at the pawn shop this past weekend, for ~$200. It had poor compression per the drop test, so I set it back down. Seemed like a light enough and nimble little saw.

I really like it. Always starts and quality construction. It is not fast by any means but has great low end torque, probably as much as any stock saw of it's size. I have an 18" Tsumura with Husky X-Force semi chisel on it and they do great. Currently cutting up a big live Poplar (I think) that fell down and she keeps pulling with the bar buried. The current 501P is the same saw but with more powah for $200.00 less than the Stihl or Husky equivalent. It's little brother the CS-400 is an excellent companion. It's a clamshell, but not a cheaply made saw by any means and with a basic muffler mod and carb tune it will really surprise you.
 

BonScott46

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Driving long banana wedges in from the side, like you did at the end, gives you easier and more gradual lift over distance compared to the shorter/shorty wedges being driven in directly from the back.

Unless it's a shorty going in to hold the kerf, I mostly wedge with the long ones. You can always use a shorty to aid and/or give additional steering to the fall.


I'm not familiar with Beech, but why such a shallow face cut? Was there significant back lean and/or limbweight?
I usually try to use the orange Stihl wedges but only had two in the van, so I used what I found. The shorty was mainly for keeping it from sitting back then I added the orange wedge to spread the weight and make it easier going. Wood started breaking out on the shorty after a few strikes and then another bigger section when I doubled up on the orange wedges. I usually start wedging from the back unless I am trying to get under side weight to help steer, wood starts breaking out or I can't get it to go then I start moving the wedges forward.

The tree had backweight but I could not tell how much (could only get a look at the crown from the front) and there was also a chance that limbs could have been tied up with neighboring trees. Not a tall tree so that was working against me as well, luckily it was limb weight and the stem was straight.

Could I have done it a differently, absolutely. Did it make it significantly more difficult the way I did it on this particular tree, not really IMO.

Beech is hard, grabby, not the best for holding on the stump and I don't enjoy cutting it.:confused:
 
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