This Ms150tc I picked up.

[Wonkydonkey]

The other day I picked up this Ms150tc, for £155.00. (Edit, $184) I thought it would be a good candidate to add to my list of saws.
I did say “thought”
A few pics from the bay.
You can see it’s bounced on the ground in its life.
some peeps can’t help to over fill the bar oil, then it all gums up with sawdust over time..

 

[Wonkydonkey]

as with most secondhand saws from the bay, they usually hide some previous slack maintenance.
So I took it apart to clean it up and fix anything I find wrong
There are a few broken/missing parts listed in the listing. And you also find other problems

I intend to get this saw running better that it did.
Although I'm not sure the extent I will go to in porting it, Im hoping some of you will give some advice and links to other sources of info

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The timing #
Ex 112*
Tran 124*\126*
Int 68*

these numbers could be a 1* off either way

the squish is almost nonexistent without the steel gasket and around 26thou with the gasket

one or both of the engine mounts has been loose for some time, one for longer than the other.
Those bolts that stihl use are self tapping, on one of the holes I can slide it straight in and out as there are no threads left.
I'm wondering if I can get away with a std m5 helicoil ? I will have to see how snug the drill bit sits in the Wallowed hole.
I don’t think I can use the correct bolt (1st pic) in a std heliciol because it’s a different coarser thread. I I think I will have to use a spare m5 bolt (2nd pic)
.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I’ve been reading up on @Adamski thread from 2017. Time flies and prices change
http://[URL="https://opeforum.com/t... to rev up no matter what.. (NOW FIXED)[/URL]
Picked up this ms150tc, its slow to rev up no matter what.. (NOW FIXED)

so it seems just a mm & timing adv makes them better. But what about making the intake abit longer in duration by filing a little bit off the piston ? Say from 68* to 70\2 ?

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Yesterday's evening was degunking the saw of all baked on “bar oil & sawdust”
The lack of care filling the bar oil results in the flywheel spraying it around


The starter cord was the heavy duty type, 5mm and 320mm (13”) ( it only went round the pulley once and a bit . It should be 2.7mm iirc and 800mm long about 30”.

 

[Ketchup]

https://opeforum.com/threads/anybody-want-to-see-inside-a-151t.25828/

The only difference is the piston. I wouldn’t extend intake duration. The block is surprisingly affordable if your mounts won’t take a helicoil.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I ve cleaned up the cylinder, and using a bit of acid to finish

I also filed 0.5mm off the intake side of the piston. Which gets me at 70\71*. The same as the 151 in @Ketchup 's thread above.

as for the tapping & helicoil on the engine mount hole, It was sort of a success. The drill went in and I could just about turn it by hand and it cleaned it up enough for the tap.
I will say I had difficulty in getting the tap in straight as well as the pto shaft getting in the way

Then I noticed the threads on the bolt I was going to use is a slightly different pitch (probably 1.0 & 1.25 ), it not the end of the world as it binds and should hold and not back out and loosen.

 

[Ketchup]

That intake number should be fine, but I didn’t do it for performance. That’s just where the machine work put it. I think 68 would be better.

I feel like raising the cylinder flange at the lowers improves performance.

 

[Creaky limb tree care]

Just make sure the flywheel hasn't worn too far into the fuel tank, common on this model when the mounting bolts strip!

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Just make sure the flywheel hasn't worn too far into the fuel tank, common on this model when the mounting bolts strip!

yeh thanks for the heads up on this.
I saw the wear on the tank after I stripped it down.
, I fuelled it up and ran it before I noticed the weird movement, that’s when I investigated further . So it doesn’t leak .

i will have to pay particular attention to any wear on the engine mounts so it doesn’t foul the tank while in use. I may have to use a spacer

 

[Wonkydonkey]

That intake number should be fine, but I didn’t do it for performance. That’s just where the machine work put it. I think 68 would be better.

I feel like raising the cylinder flange at the lowers improves performance.

I'm going to see how it runs with what I’ve done first,
The slight increase of intake 4* duration.
a bump in the timing approx 5*
I’ve also doubled the size of the exhaust slot.

 

[Ketchup]

I'm going to see how it runs with what I’ve done first,
The slight increase of intake 4* duration.
a bump in the timing approx 5*
I’ve also doubled the size of the exhaust slot.

The muffler is the big easy gain that makes these saws useable. I open the whole as much as possible under the stock deflector and bend the deflector a bit so the outlet is taller. That will probably be 75-80% of the exhaust port area.

Make sure you tighten the flywheel nut with a piston block (or rope) and a wrench. A light impact won’t tighten it enough. I’ve had two of these shear a FW key.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I thought I’d give an update on this 150tc.
The company I brought the spares from Ls engineers only sent 1 crank seal, I was In contact with them last week however I decided to rebuild the saw and fit the new seals when they arrive.

I fitted a washer to the side of the engine…if you look at the pic in post 3 & the last pic in 7 you can see the how much it’s is worn.


I’ve advanced the timing by 4mm measured on the outside of the flywheel,
something that I noticed Is this saw has a 1300 coil ?, the ipl shows a 1304 coil

the small chain. It’s to dam small for me sharpening it ...

in the vid I got distracted and had to stop it and then start again as a guy came up and needed me to show him how to change the line on a battery strimmer.

 

[Normzilla]

The other day I picked up this Ms150tc, for £155.00. (Edit, $184) I thought it would be a good candidate to add to my list of saws.
I did say “thought”
A few pics from the bay.
You can see it’s bounced on the ground in its life.
some peeps can’t help to over fill the bar oil, then it all gums up with sawdust over time..
View attachment 343299 View attachment 343300 View attachment 343301 View attachment 343302 View attachment 343303

Nice

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I’m going to continue this thread with this second Ms150tc I got the other day off eBay,

I may do a little bit more to this one but let’s see . however I think it will be going to my son as an Xmas present or just after.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Well I think I got carried away with this little saw.
Here’s a few pics
It’s got the worn crank mounts due to vibration & loose bolts hence the flywheel rubbing on the tank. But a small washer will fix it. I sort of guessed it would have due to the exhaust bolts were slightly misaligned (not sure I got a pic thou)

I want to change the crank seals in this saw, also I’ve got to fashion up away of splitting the crank so I can be sure the bottom end is good and no air leaks
I,m gonna dump the oem base gasket as it leaves a huge squish, the bgd leaves the a squish of 13\14thou which is a bit too tight for my liking so I’ve knocked one out of a beer can which should leave it in the 17/18 tho range
Anyway pics….. and more to follow sometime soon

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I’ve been busy
I put it back together today and gave it a quick tune in some small ash. Then gave it some bigger ash to eat. But I never got time to run it against my other 150 t.

I will run both saws with the same b&c soon. Anyhow here’s some more pictures of kitchen porting . fugging
days are to short @this time of yr

I was lucky… if you look at the rh side you will see a little mark where I wasn’t paying attention while grinding the cylinder. I’ve looked and it looked just about ok and it works.
That was a close call to foobaring the cylinder

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The pictures
Front & rear also the top of the pistons previous life
The intake is a bit worn but it be good for a bit


And the pull starter side needed a good clean. Just like the whole saw did

I will be putting a new starter cord on this when I order a few bits this week.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Those lovely little washer that I never thought I’d never use and sat around for a yr or 2 are finally are getting used on the worn engine mounts.


And the thickness of those washers which are almost flush with the unworn high points.

The thickness of beer cans are sweet for making base gaskets, when oem base gaskets are silly thickness for a decent squish

New bg is getting there, once it fitted over I used an end of a spoon to mark the bolt holes. It worked well. Almost like a hole punch but ithey we’re all in the right place

 

[Wonkydonkey]

The exhaust mod, I just went with 2 more holes either side of the original hole. I thought if needed I could remove the other in between bit’s later


The nice clean housing will not last long


Edit: I had to fix the broken yellow wire as the saw wouldn’t turn off sometimes. Luckily I could solder it and heat shrink it and it was just about long enough. I couldn’t find a new wire in the ipl. But I guess if I need to later on. Is just buy the connectors and a bit of wire and make it up .