High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

This Ms150tc I picked up.

Wonkydonkey

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The other day I picked up this Ms150tc, for £155.00. (Edit, $184) I thought it would be a good candidate to add to my list of saws.
I did say “thought”:rolleyes:
A few pics from the bay.
You can see it’s bounced on the ground in its life.
some peeps can’t help to over fill the bar oil, then it all gums up with sawdust over time.:cursing2:.
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Wonkydonkey

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as with most secondhand saws from the bay, they usually hide some previous slack maintenance.
So I took it apart to clean it up and fix anything I find wrong
There are a few broken/missing parts listed in the listing. And you also find other problems

I intend to get this saw running better that it did.
Although I'm not sure the extent I will go to in porting it, Im hoping some of you will give some advice and links to other sources of info :thumbsup:
 

Wonkydonkey

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The timing #
Ex 112*
Tran 124*\126*
Int 68*

these numbers could be a 1* off either way

the squish is almost nonexistent without the steel gasket and around 26thou with the gasket

one or both of the engine mounts has been loose for some time, one for longer than the other.
Those bolts that stihl use are self tapping, on one of the holes I can slide it straight in and out as there are no threads left.
I'm wondering if I can get away with a std m5 helicoil ? I will have to see how snug the drill bit sits in the Wallowed hole.
I don’t think I can use the correct bolt (1st pic) in a std heliciol because it’s a different coarser thread. I I think I will have to use a spare m5 bolt (2nd pic)
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Wonkydonkey

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Wonkydonkey

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Yesterday's evening was degunking the saw of all baked on “bar oil & sawdust”
The lack of care filling the bar oil results in the flywheel spraying it around :facepalm:
4860A911-6DA3-4AB9-9010-61B77DBAD225.jpeg

The starter cord was the heavy duty type, 5mm and 320mm (13”) ( it only went round the pulley once and a bit :eyepop:. It should be 2.7mm iirc and 800mm long about 30”.
 

Wonkydonkey

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I ve cleaned up the cylinder, and using a bit of acid to finish ;)

I also filed 0.5mm off the intake side of the piston. Which gets me at 70\71*. The same as the 151 in @Ketchup 's thread above.

as for the tapping & helicoil on the engine mount hole, It was sort of a success. The drill went in and I could just about turn it by hand and it cleaned it up enough for the tap.
I will say I had difficulty in getting the tap in straight as well as the pto shaft getting in the way:abduction:

Then I noticed the threads on the bolt I was going to use is a slightly different pitch:eek: (probably 1.0 & 1.25 ), it not the end of the world as it binds and should hold and not back out and loosen.
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Ketchup

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That intake number should be fine, but I didn’t do it for performance. That’s just where the machine work put it. I think 68 would be better.

I feel like raising the cylinder flange at the lowers improves performance.
 

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Just make sure the flywheel hasn't worn too far into the fuel tank, common on this model when the mounting bolts strip!

yeh thanks for the heads up on this.
I saw the wear on the tank after I stripped it down.
, I fuelled it up and ran it before I noticed the weird movement, that’s when I investigated further . So it doesn’t leak o_O.

i will have to pay particular attention to any wear on the engine mounts so it doesn’t foul the tank while in use. I may have to use a spacer
 

Wonkydonkey

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That intake number should be fine, but I didn’t do it for performance. That’s just where the machine work put it. I think 68 would be better.

I feel like raising the cylinder flange at the lowers improves performance.

I'm going to see how it runs with what I’ve done first,
The slight increase of intake 4* duration.
a bump in the timing approx 5*
I’ve also doubled the size of the exhaust slot.
 

Ketchup

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I'm going to see how it runs with what I’ve done first,
The slight increase of intake 4* duration.
a bump in the timing approx 5*
I’ve also doubled the size of the exhaust slot.

The muffler is the big easy gain that makes these saws useable. I open the whole as much as possible under the stock deflector and bend the deflector a bit so the outlet is taller. That will probably be 75-80% of the exhaust port area.

Make sure you tighten the flywheel nut with a piston block (or rope) and a wrench. A light impact won’t tighten it enough. I’ve had two of these shear a FW key.
 

Wonkydonkey

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I thought I’d give an update on this 150tc.
The company I brought the spares from Ls engineers only sent 1 crank seal, I was In contact with them last week however I decided to rebuild the saw and fit the new seals when they arrive.

I fitted a washer to the side of the engine…if you look at the pic in post 3 & the last pic in 7 you can see the how much it’s is worn.


I’ve advanced the timing by 4mm measured on the outside of the flywheel,
something that I noticed Is this saw has a 1300 coil ?, the ipl shows a 1304 coil

the small chain. It’s to dam small for me sharpening it ...:rolleyes:

in the vid I got distracted and had to stop it and then start again as a guy came up and needed me to show him how to change the line on a battery strimmer.
 

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