Your talking about the mid to top left part of the boot mating surface in the pic .... not any flashing or ridges further down the intake towards the piston ?![]()
You can really see the lip on this one. This is what JD was talking about. Thing is though, if you were to clamp a manifold to it I am almost certain you'd be able to look down it and see a gap between the rubber and the metal. Great place for fuel to build up as well.
JD is talking about the ridges further down towards the plating near the piston. In the pic you can actually see a lip around that entire area.Your talking about the mid to top left part of the boot mating surface in the pic .... not any flashing or ridges further down the intake towards the piston ?
For the gap that you're talking about why couldn't you try a little yamabond or similar sealant to take up the gap? That is, if you still have the issue after removing the lip.JD is talking about the ridges further down towards the plating near the piston. In the pic you can actually see a lip around that entire area.
What I am noticing is when you hook a manifold to it, peaking down inside.... the Bottom of where they clamp seems to have a gap.
This had the most loading issuesView attachment 58540
This is Daves 260
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This one had none
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TJ.....might i suggest .....a saw brought in with the customer saying there is a problem is "perhaps" less frequent than the problem "actually" not being there .I have Never had an 024, 026, 260 brought in with this complaint yet so I think that is why. When talking to JD he knew right away what the issue was, but it interests me why nothing was ever done. I guess not enough people complained about it.
Ah makes sense, I keep having to remember that as a mechanic I get really picky on saw tuning. haha The last 026 I sent out I set the idle at 3K and leaned the Low end as much as I could with it still running decent. With the top end running a tad rich it seemed to work ok. Still loaded up a bit, but not as bad as before.TJ.....might i suggest .....a saw brought in with the customer saying there is a problem is "perhaps" less frequent than the problem "actually" not being there .
I can only speak about the saws that have been through my hands ...ether first being looked after by another shop..customer.. or never really having been serviced properly at all .
Most 024 and Ms 260 saws ( 026 very few) that have come to me have had a tendency to load up a bit....and most that have come to me were set (by others) to at least 3000-3100 rpm instead of the 2800 rpm Stihl say to use. I have found the higher idle along with a L set a tinny bit week helps to "mask" the load up from grounding the saw for 30 + seconds and then lifting it up with the bar pointing down. I have never got to grips with the reasons for this and just worked round it as best i could....in general going for 3000rpm and then allowing the saw to pull back to 2400-2500 rpm for the "short time" the saw is first picked up if the operator sets it down for any significant time. Iv used many of these saws for a test and have found if you are ether limbing or X cutting fairly constantly you don't notice the set down symptom.
My point being.....it may not be noticed by the average user or just not questioned as a fault "Unless" the saw dies out fully, but the tendency for the saw to have the symptom may still be there.
That's what the Chinese didn't wanna sell as AM parts so Stihl bought them and sold them as factory OEM!BEFOREView attachment 117024
Colored with a Sharpie...View attachment 117026
AFTER
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It was a fairly dirty specimen, yes.Dirty stihl