STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[hacskaroly]

Rebuilding these carbs is all new to me, so everything you write is possibly teaching me something, right?

Its all new at some point. I have learned that if something is broken, then I can't make it worse, so then I will just open it up to see what is inside. Most times I find that there isn't as much magic as I expected!

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Thank you for that information, David!

No problem, glad to help.

 

[heimannm]

I received this piston today (Thanks @Powerstroke Cowboy), which led me back into the 041FB.



I was rather surprised to find the 041FB has a plain bore, not chrome plated.



The original piston appears to have been chrome plated, most of it is gone.



So now...

I must assume the replacement piston is not chrome plated??

I dare not run a plain piston in a plain bore...

Is there a source for a chrome plated piston today?

Am I all wet here?

Mark

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

Mark, ive never seen a plated piston for the 041fb. All thr cylinders have been plated though.

The Kolben piston you have is a OEM piston.

Hopefully someone has an awnser for you.

 

[heimannm]

While I had it apart I took a few photos of the cylinder that was on the saw. From the markings, I would certainly guess that it is OEM.





I also found a You Tube video that mentions the aluminum bore cylinders (about 45 seconds in).

For now I just put it back together and will find a spot in the display for it while I continue to investigate pistons and cylinders.

Mark

 

[Powerstroke Cowboy]

What year is your saw Mark? You must have an early modle. I did not know the early ones had an aluminum bore.

I just learned something new!

I just learned something new.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I've been using this junk yard MS441 for probably 5 years to periodically drop trees. Its wiped out some factory foam mounts ( urethane now) . It's always had a big bore and a regular carb. I've literally never had trouble with it, other than the muffler falling off because of the previously broken bottom mounts.
Gotta love a 23$ go to saw.

 

[sixonetonoffun]

For Science, B.S and fun
Do we have a weight watchers thread?

Fresh out of box unfueled, unmolested dom 03/24 Stihl MS261 Arctic weight add 1 oz for factory spike not yet installed. So #11.8

 

[sixonetonoffun]

For Science, B.S and fun
Do we have a weight watchers thread?

Fresh out of box unfueled, unmolested dom 03/24 Stihl MS261 Arctic weight add 1 oz for factory spike not yet installed. So #11.8

View attachment 459515

View attachment 459516

So checked the manual and it gives 5.1kg for Arctic model. That's #11.24 my scales not for trade but ballpark seems reliable enough.

 

[sixonetonoffun]

So checked the manual and it gives 5.1kg for Arctic model. That's #11.24 my scales not for trade but ballpark seems reliable enough.

View attachment 459534

View attachment 459535

Overcame the 1lb and a little more by going from 18" .325 .063 rollomatic (plain Jane wears for #14.6). To a 16" .325 .050Sugi-Hara #13.11. Was late so living room doorways a little dark.

 

[heimannm]

07 getting a thorough going over. Ideally I will get this one to run, take it to a few GTG's, then find a permanent home for it in the display.



@Jay Hansen has already contributed a clutch cover and the handle bar.



This saw was ridden hard and put away filthy.



All cleaned up now.



I noticed during disassembly that I am missing one air filter and retainer knob. I have a parts 08 on hand with spark that will have to give up ignition bits as the 07 is missing a few things.

Mark

 

[lehman live edge slab]

07 getting a thorough going over. Ideally I will get this one to run, take it to a few GTG's, then find a permanent home for it in the display.

View attachment 459815

@Jay Hansen has already contributed a clutch cover and the handle bar.

View attachment 459816

This saw was ridden hard and put away filthy.

View attachment 459817

All cleaned up now.

View attachment 459818

I noticed during disassembly that I am missing one air filter and retainer knob. I have a parts 08 on hand with spark that will have to give up ignition bits as the 07 is missing a few things.

Mark

That’s why the one 08 carcass came with, air filter screens are the same just 2 on the 07 vs the 08. I will be sending a good 041 cylinder with the 040 rewind parts

 

[Wilhelm]

Stihl entering the food industry?!

 

[CJSAW]

Hello-
Couple of questions from a newbie: 1.) What octane rating does "recreational fuel" (gas) have?
2.) My Stihl owner's manual is rather ambiguous about the correct gas-to-oil-ratio mix. It says "50:1/40:1". For my small-size Stihl 011AVT saw, what do people on this thread recommend?

 

[Wilhelm]

50:1 ratio is just something they have to state in order to meet exhaust regulations.

40:1 with quality oil on stock saws
32:1 with quality oil on ported saws

At least that is what I figured out from the few & rarely active oil threads.

No idea about the fuel question.

 

[hacskaroly]

Hello-
Couple of questions from a newbie: 1.) What octane rating does "recreational fuel" (gas) have?
2.) My Stihl owner's manual is rather ambiguous about the correct gas-to-oil-ratio mix. It says "50:1/40:1". For my small-size Stihl 011AVT saw, what do people on this thread recommend?

Welcome to the forum, you can use "regular" gas from the pump mixed with oil, but my recommendation will be to use non-ethanol fuel if it is available and mix it with oil. It all depends on how often you will use the saw, if it is occasional use, the buying a gallon of premix fuel may be the best bet since it is non-ethanol and has additives that help preserve the fuel (keep it from breaking down as fast) and already has the correct mix you are looking for (50:1, 40:1...etc), it basically takes all the brain work out, you just pour and go. If you will be using the saw a lot, then mixing your own fuel will be more cost effective and you can use regular pump gas, however, non-ethanol premium is the better choice (ethanol can cause issues with the diaphragms in the carb). If you go regular or non-ethanol premium, then you can mix your own ratio, if it was my saw, I would use 40:1, but that is personal preference. Stihl's manual will list both 50:1 and 40:1 mixes, 40:1 just has a little more oil in the fuel.

People on the forum here have wide ranging opinions on oil type, fuel type and mix ratio numbers...they find something that works and stick with it. What you can do as an experiment is get a premix can of 50:1 and 40:1 and try them both and see if your saw respond better to one over the other. If it seems to run the same with both, then you know that either will work for your saw.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Hello-
Couple of questions from a newbie: 1.) What octane rating does "recreational fuel" (gas) have?
2.) My Stihl owner's manual is rather ambiguous about the correct gas-to-oil-ratio mix. It says "50:1/40:1". For my small-size Stihl 011AVT saw, what do people on this thread recommend?

Stihl recommends 89 octane with 10% ethanol or less but I know plenty that run 87 octane also

 

[Lumpy]

Hi all, new here with my first Stihl MS 261C .
Just bought it second hand it looks good but it’s covered with a lot of dirt. I want to do the best I can before run it. I’ve removed the spring and the brake in order to clean around the clutch better (see photo).
Can someone tell me is there a specific way for assembling the brake because of this little piece inside (I think it was for splashing the oil).
And how to clean on the other side - it’s not gonna disappear only with compressed air
p.s. All the engine is also covered.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

That’s the tab on your oil pump worm gear that drives off the clutch so it only pumps oil when chains moving. It’s not going anywhere when you spray out the clutch area. Be careful of the crank seal behind the clutch and don’t use any harsh cleaners that may eat that seal. The little part you see is the end of the arm on this picture.

 

[heimannm]

07 is back together and fully operational.





A few hiccups along the way. Muffler flange broke during some initial test runs.



I did manage to stick it back together with my flux core wire welder, not too pretty since the flange was brazed on to begin with but it held up fine through the further test runs.



The oiler was not working, very interesting system on this model.



There is a plunger that runs off a cam on the crankshaft (Item 19b) but rather than using that motion to pump the oil, it works a "ratchet" type mechanism on top of the oil pump (Item 3) to convert reciprocal into rotary motion. Eventually I figured out the spring (Item 21) was missing so the plunger was not moving back and forth as it should.

Mark