STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Da dog man]

I cut a couple tanks with it Sunday it seemed ok but definitely doesn't four stroke much of any at all pretty sure it's on the chip so I think I'll tear it apart to be on the safer side.

 

[Mad Professor]

Well Stihl, you kicked my ass today. After setting aside my 261c for a potential solenoid replacement, I pulled out a grungy 039 that needs some love.

Got it nearly fully disassembled, with just the engine bolts to remove. Wow, what a pain in the arse these things are... Bent up two Stihl brand torx screnches, broke one off in the t27 screw, and started to strip out a remaining one... Not sure how the hell I can get these things out, since they're burried into the crankcase.

Open to any advice on gettin' these out. I tried penetrating oil, as well as putting a soldering iron on the bolt head for a few minutes, with no luck.

Bottom right has a tip broken off flush in the torx head, and top left is starting to round out. The other two have been freed up

Snapon hand held impact driver with long shank 3/8" drive T-27 bit. Don't forget to pick all the crud out of the torx head before you start.

Used one for many years taking phillips screws out of dirt bike cases. Those strip real easy.

Snapon will replace any worn/broken bits.

 

[Woodwackr]

Weld, JB or Marine-tex?
It isn't much but...
An otherwise good 044 case.
Flattening the 2 seal surfaces is no problem.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Weld, JB or Marine-tex?
It isn't much but...
An otherwise good 044 case.
Flattening the 2 seal surfaces is no problem.
View attachment 447369View attachment 447370

I'd use slow cure jbweld and warm it up with a heat gun to get the bubbles out.

 

[Woodwackr]

I'd use slow cure jbweld and warm it up with a heat gun to get the bubbles out.

It is about a mm of missing mag on each half. I think someone tried to pry the case apart with a screwdriver, sigh…

I’m stuck with using a heat gun since the shop is 60*
But, it sure makes the epoxy flow nicely

 

[heimannm]

There is a comfortable range where "just the right amount" of heat allows the JB to flow out nicely and fill the voids. I suspect it may even open the pores in the metal a bit for an improved bond.

Too much heat though, and the JB will bubble and cure right before your eyes...

Mark

 

[edisto]

Just so there is no misunderstanding, I couldn't be happier with the seller that sent me the saw (Stihl 090). What I am posting about was clearly visible in the pictures used to advertise the saw. It was an interesting deal...the owner previous to the seller replaced a bunch of OEM parts with aftermarket parts to save wear on the OEM parts, so it came as a runner with the aftermarket parts (including the top handle) installed, and the OEM parts to replace them. My understanding is that the owner prior to that was a logger in Montana.

What I want is for someone to lie to me, and tell me that this handle is NOT a chopped up 090 full wrap:

 

[smokinJoe83]

I have a question regarding the mtronic control units and the part number I guess nomenclature... Have a 400 c need to get a control module it part number 1140 4704 is what's on the thing right now. That specific unit it's been a bugger to source. The one I can find is 1140 (saw product#series) but it's 4706 coil part number instead. Is this the same coil but just an updated control module version? I bought my saw new in 22' and does that last four digits reflect product development or update since the original 4704 module? Saw is version 3.0 Any Advice or input would be greatly appreciated... Kind of at a loss here when official with my LLC and am new tree service realm and other than my 200t she's all I got right now! LOL so many thanks y'all

 

[bogieboy]

I have a question regarding the mtronic control units and the part number I guess nomenclature... Have a 400 c need to get a control module it part number 1140 4704 is what's on the thing right now. That specific unit it's been a bugger to source. The one I can find is 1140 (saw product#series) but it's 4706 coil part number instead. Is this the same coil but just an updated control module version? I bought my saw new in 22' and does that last four digits reflect product development or update since the original 4704 module? Saw is version 3.0 Any Advice or input would be greatly appreciated... Kind of at a loss here when official with my LLC and am new tree service realm and other than my 200t she's all I got right now! LOL so many thanks y'all

I would not get the 4706, that comes back as a coil for a ms362....the coil that is the current coil for the 400 is 1140 400 4718.

That said, most all of the mtronic coils can somewhat interchange.... i am running a 362 coil on my ms261c, so take that with a grain of salt LOL but according to stihl the correct coil is the 4718

 

[Woodwackr]

There is a comfortable range where "just the right amount" of heat allows the JB to flow out nicely and fill the voids. I suspect it may even open the pores in the metal a bit for an improved bond.

Too much heat though, and the JB will bubble and cure right before your eyes...

Mark

Any particular temp range? I have a nice Makita that I can dial in the temp.
And, a laser temp reader…

 

[heimannm]

7.5 degrees before it starts to bubble...

Mark

 

[smokinJoe83]

I would not get the 4706, that comes back as a coil for a ms362....the coil that is the current coil for the 400 is 1140 400 4718.

That said, most all of the mtronic coils can somewhat interchange.... i am running a 362 coil on my ms261c, so take that with a grain of salt LOL but according to stihl the correct coil is the 4718

View attachment 447830

View attachment 447831

Thank you so much for your knowledge and insight! Along with keeping me from buying the wrong module and dealing with the would be ensuing return Fiasco you got me pointed in the correct direction. 4718 is the correct module that is interesting... So check this out... Stopped into a local pawn shop who is also a legitimate husky dealer sign out front and in the windows the whole ball of Wax Wanted to check out the 592. Walked in alongside the husky display their sits a stihl display full of brand new saws. All professional saws from the 400 all the way up to the 880. Which surprised me because there was no sign or anything you would have never thought walking in. Was able to compare each model hand in hand thought it was pretty nice ended up walking out with a 400. Here's the thing every saw came with installed West Coast dogs. A few of them even had BarkBoxs in the ziplock bags that comes with brand new saws from every other dealer. And the guys prices were unheard of like the sticker price on the 400 was $800 got it for $700 with two additional chains and this was in 2023. Ending up having questions about the tuning procedure cuz I didn't want to hold the thing wide open being a brand new out the box 2 stroke You know? So I called the pawn shop guy and he kind of gave me this weird runaround thought something didn't seem right him being a dealer and all. So I called another dealer come to find out saw was actually registered to somebody else.Back Down to the pawn have a little "meeting" with the owner After instilling the fear of God into him he tells me saws come from a Stihl Sales Rep and their expo display models. Gave me the guy's name and phone number told me to call him to get my name changed in the system as the original purchasing owner. After few unreturned voicemails didn't have the time to pursue the whole endeavor and other than having to recalibrate every other day but ran okay. Little low on power for my needs but fixable thru mild porting, BarkBox and filter mod holding off porting until top end rebuild is due. But still have to tune it every other day. I'm curious if that was the original control module that was supposed to be on that saw and what I actually did get tricked into buying? Anyways thought you'd find the story interesting and sorry if it was a bit long LOL Again Many Many Thanks... really appreciate your generosity with your time and knowledge! Strange world out there!

 

[DND 9000]

Attention. You must not mix up the part no. (order number) and the 4 digit no. on the module. They are often different. They have nothing in common. Only the ipl part no is importand and valid. So always talk to your dealer to get the right part.

 

[Mastermind]

Great thread here.