STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Da dog man]

I cut a couple tanks with it Sunday it seemed ok but definitely doesn't four stroke much of any at all pretty sure it's on the chip so I think I'll tear it apart to be on the safer side.

 

[Mad Professor]

Well Stihl, you kicked my ass today. After setting aside my 261c for a potential solenoid replacement, I pulled out a grungy 039 that needs some love.

Got it nearly fully disassembled, with just the engine bolts to remove. Wow, what a pain in the arse these things are... Bent up two Stihl brand torx screnches, broke one off in the t27 screw, and started to strip out a remaining one... Not sure how the hell I can get these things out, since they're burried into the crankcase.

Open to any advice on gettin' these out. I tried penetrating oil, as well as putting a soldering iron on the bolt head for a few minutes, with no luck.

Bottom right has a tip broken off flush in the torx head, and top left is starting to round out. The other two have been freed up

Snapon hand held impact driver with long shank 3/8" drive T-27 bit. Don't forget to pick all the crud out of the torx head before you start.

Used one for many years taking phillips screws out of dirt bike cases. Those strip real easy.

Snapon will replace any worn/broken bits.

 

[Woodwackr]

Weld, JB or Marine-tex?
It isn't much but...
An otherwise good 044 case.
Flattening the 2 seal surfaces is no problem.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Weld, JB or Marine-tex?
It isn't much but...
An otherwise good 044 case.
Flattening the 2 seal surfaces is no problem.
View attachment 447369View attachment 447370

I'd use slow cure jbweld and warm it up with a heat gun to get the bubbles out.

 

[Woodwackr]

I'd use slow cure jbweld and warm it up with a heat gun to get the bubbles out.

It is about a mm of missing mag on each half. I think someone tried to pry the case apart with a screwdriver, sigh…

I’m stuck with using a heat gun since the shop is 60*
But, it sure makes the epoxy flow nicely

 

[heimannm]

There is a comfortable range where "just the right amount" of heat allows the JB to flow out nicely and fill the voids. I suspect it may even open the pores in the metal a bit for an improved bond.

Too much heat though, and the JB will bubble and cure right before your eyes...

Mark

 

[edisto]

Just so there is no misunderstanding, I couldn't be happier with the seller that sent me the saw (Stihl 090). What I am posting about was clearly visible in the pictures used to advertise the saw. It was an interesting deal...the owner previous to the seller replaced a bunch of OEM parts with aftermarket parts to save wear on the OEM parts, so it came as a runner with the aftermarket parts (including the top handle) installed, and the OEM parts to replace them. My understanding is that the owner prior to that was a logger in Montana.

What I want is for someone to lie to me, and tell me that this handle is NOT a chopped up 090 full wrap:

 

[smokinJoe83]

I have a question regarding the mtronic control units and the part number I guess nomenclature... Have a 400 c need to get a control module it part number 1140 4704 is what's on the thing right now. That specific unit it's been a bugger to source. The one I can find is 1140 (saw product#series) but it's 4706 coil part number instead. Is this the same coil but just an updated control module version? I bought my saw new in 22' and does that last four digits reflect product development or update since the original 4704 module? Saw is version 3.0 Any Advice or input would be greatly appreciated... Kind of at a loss here when official with my LLC and am new tree service realm and other than my 200t she's all I got right now! LOL so many thanks y'all

 

[bogieboy]

I have a question regarding the mtronic control units and the part number I guess nomenclature... Have a 400 c need to get a control module it part number 1140 4704 is what's on the thing right now. That specific unit it's been a bugger to source. The one I can find is 1140 (saw product#series) but it's 4706 coil part number instead. Is this the same coil but just an updated control module version? I bought my saw new in 22' and does that last four digits reflect product development or update since the original 4704 module? Saw is version 3.0 Any Advice or input would be greatly appreciated... Kind of at a loss here when official with my LLC and am new tree service realm and other than my 200t she's all I got right now! LOL so many thanks y'all

I would not get the 4706, that comes back as a coil for a ms362....the coil that is the current coil for the 400 is 1140 400 4718.

That said, most all of the mtronic coils can somewhat interchange.... i am running a 362 coil on my ms261c, so take that with a grain of salt LOL but according to stihl the correct coil is the 4718

 

[Woodwackr]

There is a comfortable range where "just the right amount" of heat allows the JB to flow out nicely and fill the voids. I suspect it may even open the pores in the metal a bit for an improved bond.

Too much heat though, and the JB will bubble and cure right before your eyes...

Mark

Any particular temp range? I have a nice Makita that I can dial in the temp.
And, a laser temp reader…

 

[heimannm]

7.5 degrees before it starts to bubble...

Mark