STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[eric4]

If you deside to keep the saw I would deffinatly replace the crank bearings.

Decided to send 'er back... It didn't sound like the seller wanted to give a significant partial-refund, which is understandable.

Hopefully my local Stihl dealer will let me return the ms400 top cover that I ordered from them haha

 

[hvacman04]

And I also have this damn nice 028 Super...

View attachment 6646 View attachment 6647

Cgraham1, very nice , I worked at a stihl dealership the owner lucked up on a nice 028 like yours , I cant remember if a super, or wood boss . Problem with carburetor and straight gassed. The carb , was over $300 .00 . Buck

 

[cgraham1]

Cgraham1, very nice , I worked at a stihl dealership the owner lucked up on a nice 028 like yours , I cant remember if a super, or wood boss . Problem with carburetor and straight gassed. The carb , was over $300 .00 . Buck

That saw was straight gassed and I swapped the P&C off of another saw that had been smashed. I’m not sure what happened to it, but I don’t have it now.

 

[eric4]

Any of y'all got some pointers on diagnosing my ms261c m-tronic issues? I just rebuilt the saw, and it's got spark, held vac/pressure, and fires on some fuel squirted in the carb. For whatever reason, it won't start using the standard procedure...

When I opened up and cleaned the carb, it seemed like everything was in good shape, as far as the diaphrams are concerned.

This is my first m-tronic carb, so maybe I'm missing something...

 

[bogieboy]

Any of y'all got some pointers on diagnosing my ms261c m-tronic issues? I just rebuilt the saw, and it's got spark, held vac/pressure, and fires on some fuel squirted in the carb. For whatever reason, it won't start using the standard procedure...

When I opened up and cleaned the carb, it seemed like everything was in good shape, as far as the diaphrams are concerned.

This is my first m-tronic carb, so maybe I'm missing something...

Was it running ok before the rebuild? How much compressed air did you use to clean the carb? May have damaged something...

Aside frim that, gotta ask the stupid questions, carb solenoid is plugged in correctly? Also if solenoid was removed from the carb body during cleaning, theres a high likelyhood of that oring that seals the poppet face into the carb having torn upon reinsertion if you werent extremely delicate with it and lubed it up as well

 

[eric4]

I purchased the saw with a blown up piston. Replaced with a meteor pop-up, cleaned up the cylinder, flushed the crank case, new fuel filter, and reassembled.

Didn't mess with the solenoid, but that might be the problem... The fuel tank had TONS of crap inside it, so maybe they plugged up the jets/solenoid.

 

[eric4]

Well Stihl, you kicked my ass today. After setting aside my 261c for a potential solenoid replacement, I pulled out a grungy 039 that needs some love.

Got it nearly fully disassembled, with just the engine bolts to remove. Wow, what a pain in the arse these things are... Bent up two Stihl brand torx screnches, broke one off in the t27 screw, and started to strip out a remaining one... Not sure how the hell I can get these things out, since they're burried into the crankcase.

Open to any advice on gettin' these out. I tried penetrating oil, as well as putting a soldering iron on the bolt head for a few minutes, with no luck.

Bottom right has a tip broken off flush in the torx head, and top left is starting to round out. The other two have been freed up

 

[bogieboy]

I purchased the saw with a blown up piston. Replaced with a meteor pop-up, cleaned up the cylinder, flushed the crank case, new fuel filter, and reassembled.

Didn't mess with the solenoid, but that might be the problem... The fuel tank had TONS of crap inside it, so maybe they plugged up the jets/solenoid.

View attachment 444757

Given that, it could be the solenoid, or whatever caused it to run lean enough to eat the piston may have been an long term fuel trim issue.... my 661 didnt want to run at all after rebuild, it had a torn intake boot and they kept running it til it stopped... i had to essentially dribble fuel from a tiny sout into the carb to get it to stay running long enough to relearn the fuel parameters it needed, then do a full reset of the mtronics... do you know if the saw is a 2.0 or 3.0 for the mtronics? Should likely say on the emissions label in one of the corners, as the reset processes vary.... my 261 was a 2.0, but i replaced the coil with a 3.0 coil out of a 362 (im a cheap bastage, and was able to get one for $30, instead of $100, was worth the gamble, now it runs great)

 

[FergusonTO35]

Well Stihl, you kicked my ass today. After setting aside my 261c for a potential solenoid replacement, I pulled out a grungy 039 that needs some love.

Got it nearly fully disassembled, with just the engine bolts to remove. Wow, what a pain in the arse these things are... Bent up two Stihl brand torx screnches, broke one off in the t27 screw, and started to strip out a remaining one... Not sure how the hell I can get these things out, since they're burried into the crankcase.

Open to any advice on gettin' these out. I tried penetrating oil, as well as putting a soldering iron on the bolt head for a few minutes, with no luck.

Bottom right has a tip broken off flush in the torx head, and top left is starting to round out. The other two have been freed up

I would get one of those kits from Napa that has left hand drill bits and spiral twist extractors. The left hand drill bit may get it coming out before you even have a chance to use the extractor.

 

[eric4]

I would get one of those kits from Napa that has left hand drill bits and spiral twist extractors. The left hand drill bit may get it coming out before you even have a chance to use the extractor.

I'll give them a shot! Just put an order in for a kit.

Given that, it could be the solenoid, or whatever caused it to run lean enough to eat the piston may have been an long term fuel trim issue.... my 661 didnt want to run at all after rebuild, it had a torn intake boot and they kept running it til it stopped... i had to essentially dribble fuel from a tiny sout into the carb to get it to stay running long enough to relearn the fuel parameters it needed, then do a full reset of the mtronics... do you know if the saw is a 2.0 or 3.0 for the mtronics? Should likely say on the emissions label in one of the corners, as the reset processes vary.... my 261 was a 2.0, but i replaced the coil with a 3.0 coil out of a 362 (im a cheap bastage, and was able to get one for $30, instead of $100, was worth the gamble, now it runs great)

The lean-explosion makes sense, with a fuel tank full of chunk, the mtronic adjusts until there's no room for more fuel. This saw is a 3.0.

I was really impressed by how the cylinder cleaned up, from the piston exhaust skirt breaking off inside. The crank showed some blueing, but after multiple crankcase flushes, the bearings spun great. Hopefully it's just a carburation issue, and it's nearly complete.

The saw passed a pressure test, so the intake boot on my saw should be good enough. I'll give my local STIHL dealer a call tomorrow to price the white solenoid. I noticed it's a security torx bit, to disassemble the carb. Any of y'all know the specific bit? Tried to search it up, but couldn't find it.

 

[bogieboy]

I'll give them a shot! Just put an order in for a kit.


The lean-explosion makes sense, with a fuel tank full of chunk, the mtronic adjusts until there's no room for more fuel. This saw is a 3.0.

I was really impressed by how the cylinder cleaned up, from the piston exhaust skirt breaking off inside. The crank showed some blueing, but after multiple crankcase flushes, the bearings spun great. Hopefully it's just a carburation issue, and it's nearly complete.

The saw passed a pressure test, so the intake boot on my saw should be good enough. I'll give my local STIHL dealer a call tomorrow to price the white solenoid. I noticed it's a security torx bit, to disassemble the carb. Any of y'all know the specific bit? Tried to search it up, but couldn't find it.

From memory its a security t8 or t10. Will try to remember to check on my spare 261 carb when i get to work tomorrow

 

[bogieboy]

I noticed it's a security torx bit, to disassemble the carb. Any of y'all know the specific bit? Tried to search it up, but couldn't find it.

Upon closer inspection of my spare carb, it is not a security torx, however my carb is also a 2.0 brown solenoid, but it is a t10... this is an 1141/30d or zama c1q-827a for reference

 

[066 redeye]

I would drill the heads off the bolts,remove the motor and go from there.

 

[eric4]

I would get one of those kits from Napa that has left hand drill bits and spiral twist extractors. The left hand drill bit may get it coming out before you even have a chance to use the extractor.

I would drill the heads off the bolts,remove the motor and go from there.

Y'all were both right! I was able to get one out with an extractor, but the second wouldn't bite. So I drilled off the head and viola, the engine is free.

Thanks for the advise.

 

[jmester]

My main warm weather felling saw. Got it powdered @Glock37. Rebuild bottom end. New Piston, av mounts, fuel lines and carb kit and nozzle check valve. The pto bearing was beginning to fail.

 

[nbbt]

@jmester Nice looking restored 066

 

[FergusonTO35]

Wow, very nice. Did you polish the plastic with headlight restorer?

 

[jmester]

@FergusonTO35
No polish on the plastics. The cylinder shroud is new. It had a few splits and cracks. The pics make the plastic look better than it does in person.

I have used salon 40 to whiten white plastic. With mixed results.

I didn't go all out as I still plan to use the saw to make money.

 

[Da dog man]

Don't know if this is right thread to post in but figured it applied as it's a Stihl 461. Got a late Christmas present an immediately modded the muffler an got rid of baffle question is..... Is it mandatory to remove the limiters or can I get away w backing it out all the way. It's a healthy mod added a port an opened original

 

[FergusonTO35]

I would first try it out and see how it does. Might be good to go as is, or not. If you have a tach I would measure RPM at WOT after it warms up with a full tank of fuel to see if it is close to the published maximum.