STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[Scotty Overkill]

That 200T will bring a nice addition to the retirement fund.

But when someone pays $2500 for one like I've actually seen advertised elsewhere, they belong in a tree with the seller.

Ya, some of the money I've seen asked (and spent) for those saws is insane. I spent 300 bucks on the 'bay for this one, which makes it number 7 200T/020T In my hoard.....lol. I thought it was fair money, took a chance and all that the saw really needed was a clutch cover, brake flag, carb modded and rebuilt, and the throttle linkage.. I have a total of 390 in it.

 

[Scotty Overkill]

Got this 075 that I'm currently building. Posted a little on the other site but I'm using a later model 075 crankcase that has the brake ears for the brake handle. Other than being dirty it ended up being in pretty good shape. I'll re-use most of the parts on other than the crankcase and handlebar, that and I ended up pulling the trigger on a new walbro wj-112 carb. Got to use my new flywheel side puller tool on it. There's nothing wrong with my press but I really like Stihls new tool. Super easy with many different models. Just wish they would have sent all of the correct installing sleeves with it.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

I have several of those saws and had plans to build one this past winter but it stayed so mild we ended up much busier doing trees than normal, not to mention I built around 12 other saws that needed done.....

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

Ya, some of the money I've seen asked (and spent) for those saws is insane. I spent 300 bucks on the 'bay for this one, which makes it number 7 200T/020T In my hoard.....lol. I thought it was fair money, took a chance and all that the saw really needed was a clutch cover, brake flag, carb modded and rebuilt, and the throttle linkage.. I have a total of 390 in it.

Where did you source parts? I just snagged this one for $86 shipped. And need some parts. May clean it and relist too.

 

[Scotty Overkill]

Where did you source parts? I just snagged this one for $86 shipped. And need some parts. May clean it and relist too.
View attachment 365926

I have boxes and boxes of parts for these, and I get some from the 'bay and other members here as well as FHC.

I'd buy that one you have as-is, LMK if ya wanna sell it. Shoot me a DM.

 

[Clarkbug]

Hey guys.

I'm trying to fight off a case of CAD right now, so thought I would ask about fixing what I have.

My first saw that I bought was an 026 from maybe 15 years ago on the other site. It came with a piston that had some carbon scoring, but still ran well. The seller was a super stand-up guy and gave me the $ for an OEM piston that I still have sitting in a box ...

So it's starting to get really tired, and probably time to swap it over and get some pep back in it's step. I probably should do the seals at the same time since they havent been done, but I know they are a PITA on that saw. I have the Lisle seal puller, but from what I have read the Stihl tool comes in real handy here.

Any tips on making sure a refresh on my saw goes well? Any secrets for the seals?

 

[heimannm]

I have a 310 on the bench from a local tree service. It will start but won't throttle up, and dies after a few seconds. I've been through the carburetor and everything is in good shape. Just for grins I pulled the fuel filter off and tried running the saw, same results...runs a few seconds and dies.

The owner tells me he just went through the saw and resealed the crankcase so that shouldn't be an issue but I'll check it just to be sure.

Other areas I should be aware of?

Thanks,

Mark

 

[northwest saws]

Mark it sounds like you have some unseen damage in the high speed circuit of that carb or a crudded up spark arrestor screen. Other than doing a pressure/vac test like you mentioned and looking at the piston thru the exhaust I would check the screen on the muffler and think about trying a different or new carb. Did you do a leak down text on that carb as well?

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'd check the "re-sealed crankcase" before going much further starting at the intake boot and impulse hose. The carbs are pretty much bullet proof unless severely molested..., as are the 1127 saws in general for that matter.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Hey guys.

I'm trying to fight off a case of CAD right now, so thought I would ask about fixing what I have.

My first saw that I bought was an 026 from maybe 15 years ago on the other site. It came with a piston that had some carbon scoring, but still ran well. The seller was a super stand-up guy and gave me the $ for an OEM piston that I still have sitting in a box ...

So it's starting to get really tired, and probably time to swap it over and get some pep back in it's step. I probably should do the seals at the same time since they havent been done, but I know they are a PITA on that saw. I have the Lisle seal puller, but from what I have read the Stihl tool comes in real handy here.

Any tips on making sure a refresh on my saw goes well? Any secrets for the seals?

My lisle came with 2 hooks, I ground one down to a point for pulling very small seals.

 

[Scotty Overkill]

My lisle came with 2 hooks, I ground one down to a point for pulling very small seals.

Yep that's a tip I got from @huskihl it definitely made the smaller seals alot easier to do

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My first rebuild was an 026 with a roached top end given to me by a neighbor many years ago. A little reading online led me straight to the notorious f/w side seal as the likely culprit..., and my first homebrew seal puller experience. Piece o' cake.

​

 

[Clarkbug]

My first rebuild was an 026 with a roached top end given to me by a neighbor many years ago. A little reading online led me straight to the notorious f/w side seal as the likely culprit..., and my first homebrew seal puller experience. Piece o' cake.

View attachment 366061​

First thing I saw was the chain and I was really confused for a second.

I guess I need to clean off my work bench, find my various bits and pieces of chainsaw stuff, and get to tinkering...

Are those seals still available from the dealer? Any tips to reinstall without ruining them?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The chain and the maul were what got it out! LOL

The seals are still available, but my first tip would be to leave them alone if there's no evidence of an air leak. May also want to invest in a MityVac 8500 if you intend to get into a few more saws along the way. A vac/pressure test is the most valuable diagnostic test you can do.

If you do decide to change the seals, you may save yourself a ton of aggrevation by just notching a Stihl tuner screwdriver to pry the seal out. My Lisle puller just hangs on a hook in favor of several other more effective methods of popping seals -- at least for me.

When removing the smaller seal, take note of its recessed position in the case and try to approximate that when installing a new one. Not super critical, but you don't want it right up against the bearing. Most guys just use a socket to tap it in.

Use a dab of grease on the inner seal lip and go easy so as not to invert the lip and pop the garter spring inside. Usually not an issue on a tapered flywheel side shaft and more need for concern on the PTO side.

Lots of tips and tricks out there for doing seals.

There's a gasket set that includes both seals, case gasket, base gasket, and muffler gasket for around $15.00. Usually saves a couple bucks on the seals alone. Part #1121-007-1050

Good luck.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Almost forgot...

On that new piston you have, make sure it's the right one for the cylinder. There were two top ends -- 44mm and 44.7mm.

 

[Clarkbug]

The chain and the maul were what got it out! LOL

The seals are still available, but my first tip would be to leave them alone if there's no evidence of an air leak. May also want to invest in a MityVac 8500 if you intend to get into a few more saws along the way. A vac/pressure test is the most valuable diagnostic test you can do.

If you do decide to change the seals, you may save yourself a ton of aggrevation by just notching a Stihl tuner screwdriver to pry the seal out. My Lisle puller just hangs on a hook in favor of several other more effective methods of popping seals -- at least for me.

When removing the smaller seal, take note of its recessed position in the case and try to approximate that when installing a new one. Not super critical, but you don't want it right up against the bearing. Most guys just use a socket to tap it in.

Use a dab of grease on the inner seal lip and go easy so as not to invert the lip and pop the garter spring inside. Usually not an issue on a tapered flywheel side shaft and more need for concern on the PTO side.

Lots of tips and tricks out there for doing seals.

There's a gasket set that includes both seals, case gasket, base gasket, and muffler gasket for around $15.00. Usually saves a couple bucks on the seals alone. Part #1121-007-1050

Good luck.

Almost forgot...

On that new piston you have, make sure it's the right one for the cylinder. There were two top ends -- 44mm and 44.7mm.

Thanks for the tips!

Seals haven't been giving any indication of an issue, and I have the stuff to pressure/vac test from a previous issue I had with an 028 with an air leak. Ill test it and put my compression tester on it to see where it sits now.

Good tip on the piston. I'll measure what I have to verify. Is there a difference visually in the two pistons also? Or only the diameter?

I know a muffler mod is supposed to help too, but I have pretty minimal fabbing abilities, aside from being able to drill some holes.

 

[heimannm]

Update on the MS310, fuel line was cracked in several places. I made a temporary repair so he could use the saw until the real fuel line arrives.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Same tree service local has an older 029(?) with this sprocket arrangement.





I am currently without my desktop computer so I don't have access to the MediaCat files to try and search out a part number. Are there replacements out there somewhere and what would be a reasonable price? Is it possible to convert this saw to a more conventional drum with a spur or better yet rim type sprocket?

Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

An 029 uses the same compliment of clutch and sprocket assemblies as the 310 you just repaired. Same saw except the flip caps and displacement as is the 039 MS390 -- affectionately referred to as '1127s' for the series.

What you have on your hands there appears to be an 042/048 sprocket -- presumably from an 042/048 saw. Whole different animal and can present a variety of challenges, not the least of which is finding parts since they were only produced for a very short time.

The sprocket arrangement was also available as a rim drive assembly and can probably be sourced. The consideration may be the oil pump drive interface.

Pics of the saw and the oil pump gear?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

And about your 'fix' for the MS310 fuel line..., McMaster-Carr grommet for a 10-10 tank and some Tygon?

 

[Al Smith]

That spur fits on something but I don't think it's an 042/048 or an 038 which also had replaceable spurs
Those clutch drum gear drive set ups it gets confusing .They had rigid mounted spurs,replacable spurs plus replaceable rims .Each drive needed a matching drive gear to run the oil pump because they were not interchangable . I might have a worn out replacable spur in one of my drawers because I seldom throw anything away .I'm also about certain I have some drive gears from ordering the wrong ones ,it happens .