STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

I think Randy just used a hack saw with a nail. You can buy the small split mandrels cheap. Having several loaded with different grit abrasives is handy. I still find myself going the larger route in most cases for a variety of reasons. The main one is probably the ability to span (usually) the ports and transfers during the process along with having the torque and basic mass to apply greater surface pressure when it seems to be required. There's also the flexibility factor for using thicker and wider abrasive paper with the larger flapper method -- not to mention the extended reach.

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So this is the second cylinder cleanup post of mine this week and I forgot to include a very important aspect in both of them, which is the cleaning of the cylinder after everything else is done. Everyone has their preferred method. Mine is to start with a well-oiled paper towel to wipe down the surface(s). The oil will pick up residual aluminum residue better than you may think. I do a couple passes. Then I do a hosing with brake clean (just becaus)e before another wipe down with a clean paper towel. Then it's a plain ol' Dawn and hot water soak before a final rinse and dry with water. May seem excessive, but is guaranteed to be white glove clean.

One other thing I see mentioned occasionally is guys using WD40 or other penetrating oils/lubricants for 'wet sanding' aluminum transfer. Never could understand why you would lubricate something you were trying to scrape off unless the process involved excessive heat. Seems like using wet and slippery abrasive paper trying to remove wet and slippery aluminum transfer is just defeating the whole purpose of using an abrasive in the first place.

Ok. I'll go now. LOL

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I think Randy just used a hack saw with a nail. You can buy the small split mandrels cheap. Having several loaded with different grit abrasives is handy. I still find myself going the larger route in most cases for a variety of reasons. The main one is probably the ability to span (usually) the ports and transfers during the process along with having the torque and basic mass to apply greater surface pressure when it seems to be required. There's also the flexibility factor for using thicker and wider abrasive paper with the larger flapper method -- not to mention the extended reach.

View attachment 323148
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So this is the second cylinder cleanup post of mine this week and I forgot to include a very important aspect in both of them, which is the cleaning of the cylinder after everything else is done. Everyone has their preferred method. Mine is to start with a well-oiled paper towel to wipe down the surface(s). The oil will pick up residual aluminum residue better than you may think. I do a couple passes. Then I do a hosing with brake clean (just becaus)e before another wipe down with a clean paper towel. Then it's a plain ol' Dawn and hot water soak before a final rinse and dry with water. May seem excessive, but is guaranteed to be white glove clean.

One other thing I see mentioned occasionally is guys using WD40 or other penetrating oils/lubricants for 'wet sanding' aluminum transfer. Never could understand why you would lubricate something you were trying to scrape off unless the process involved excessive heat. Seems like using wet and slippery abrasive paper trying to remove wet and slippery aluminum transfer is just defeating the whole purpose of using an abrasive in the first place.

Ok. I'll go now. LOL

The "wet" sanding is for the sandpaper, helps it from clogging.

 

[spencerdiesel]

About 30 mins into cleaning transfer from this cylinder. About 30% of the time using a 120 grit Emory “flap style” in a mandrel, the rest of the time elbow greasing with the 120 grit.
Am I through the plating? Are the grey spots just remaining aluminum?
My first time at this so I don’t know how much grunt work with Emory cloth it takes to get through nikasil……?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Pics?

120 grit should have made fairly quick work of the transfer in your pic and could have found its way through the plating if you were too aggressive. That said, discoloration isn't unusual either and doesn't necessarily mean it did.

 

[spencerdiesel]

Pictures help when I remember ha!
It’s amazing how the lighting dramatically changes what the pictures show

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks to me like remaining transfer vs. plating wear and a pretty decent effort so far. Hard to tell from the pics even under magnification. You shouldn't feel any bumps or raised edges with your finger in those areas or along any of the vertical streaks. The spot right above the exhaust port looks like remaining aluminum. A little more work there may tell the tale for you. Go easy with less aggressive grit or just some Scotch-Brite and see if that area cleans up a little more. If it does, apply the same technique to the other areas. You should also be able to make the streaks further above the exhaust port disappear and have a nice, clean, surface.

Here's one of my early one's from a long time ago. Just happened to have the pics handy. Should give you a pretty good idea of what's typically achievable. The remaining spots are pits in the plating and not of major concern since they're below the port and there's no flaking. It's not unusual to find this under severe transfer -- and why you shouldn't use acid.

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[spencerdiesel]

Thanks! I’ll work on it some more tomorrow and see where it gets us. In person those remaining streak areas seems like marks in the plating. Like I say though, I’m a newby so we’ll find out what a little more effort gets!

 

[popopboat]

Early (I think) 070 that i just bought for $75
Never repaired all parts original, been sitting for a while.
Recoil is pretty much in pristine shape, crankshaft has NO play whatsoever, piston in excellent shape,
but i can see some clinder discoloration through the exhaust port (nevermind since i found cylinder for 30 in excellent shape.

But that clutch cover really gives me an eyesore.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Your

Early (I think) 070 that i just bought for $75
Never repaired all parts original, been sitting for a while.
Recoil is pretty much in pristine shape, crankshaft has NO play whatsoever, piston in excellent shape,
but i can see some clinder discoloration through the exhaust port (nevermind since i found cylinder for 30 in excellent shape.

But that clutch cover really gives me an eyesore.

View attachment 323341 View attachment 323340 View attachment 323342 View attachment 323338

Your version of "repaired" and mine are slightly different. Lol

 

[popopboat]

Your

Your version of "repaired" and mine are slightly different. Lol

I meant, except that clutch cover and sprakplug cable hihihi
Atleast he said so.

 

[popopboat]

Does anyone have picture and/or part number of flywheel for 064 heated handle?

 

[DND 9000]

The flywheel for the 064W is 1122 400 1207.

 

[popopboat]

Interesting wear pattern


Ideas on the cause?

Low fuel mixture? Bad air filter?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Is that how it came off the saw, or after being cleaned up?

 

[popopboat]

Came off the saw like that, i just quickly hand wiped cylinder with scotch-brite (no power tools involved)

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

What does the piston look like?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Pretty sure the plating was just chrome back then. Piston slop could be to blame -- or just very thin plating in that area. Either way, the piston should show significant wear as well.

The wear looks too smooth and even to be caused by abrasive action -- which you would think would also be prevalent on the intake side. Doesn't appear to be heat related. Sloppy wrist pin/bearing fitment/worn rings could certainly be in the mix. I'd actually say it looks pretty good for its age!

 

[popopboat]

What does the piston look like?

Sorry, forgot to take a picture.
Piston has nasty marks too.

Cylinder had ugly vertical lines until i wiped it with scotch.

 

[spencerdiesel]

A while ago I went to pull the muffler on my pride & joy; 1996 046 my Dad bought new and put about 10 tanks through.
The lower left muffler bolt (going into the case) seized when I was backing it out with a weak impact. I didnt try more force, but it won’t thread in or out, it’s currently seized about 1/2 way out.
Heat on the case possibly?
Any advice appreciated thanks!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Heat on the case possibly?

That's what I'd try for starters. The mag should definitely expand faster than the fastener -- provided it's the correct steel fastener and not some type of aluminum replacement. Heat up the area real good and back the fastener out by hand. Sure don't want to bust the case trying to blip it out. Can't help but wonder why it's bound up unless there was excessive thread locker applied when it was tightened. It could be crusted/baked into the threads or have eaten the mag enough to prohibit normal removal. Pretty unusual to cross thread a fastener on the way out -- impact or no impact.