STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

I sharpen chains for a guy with the same little milling setup who's mainly a woodworker and not a chainsaw guy. He ran his MS391 hard with Stihl semi chisel safety chain before I made him a couple full chisel ripping chains. He's happier with the setup now. So is his saw.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Oh, I see. Did the 500 replace it?

 

[tspeedle]

Oh, I see. Did the 500 replace it?

If you’re referring to the 461, then no, the 461 has been replaced by the 462. A lot of people say the 462 is just a newer 441, though… but that’s a different story I guess.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. I know we have the 460-something at my side job shop pretty regularly, just didn't remember exactly which one.

 

[BonScott46]

If you’re referring to the 461, then no, the 461 has been replaced by the 462. A lot of people say the 462 is just a newer 441, though… but that’s a different story I guess.

As far as i was told by a dealer in the PNW the 500 was meant to replace the 461. The 462 was meant to bring back a 044/440 sized saw into the lineup. It makes sense when you think about how the saws run and don’t get caught up in the model numbers and horsepower ratings.

 

[tspeedle]

Well, officially the 462 was meant to replace both the 441 and the 461 so I kind of agree with your dealer there

 

[BonScott46]

This was when the 500 was out in Europe but had not come to the US yet. The 462 had already been released in the US. The rep told him that there was a saw coming to replace the 461 but that the 461 would stay in the catalog in the PNW for roughly 12-18 months after it was released.

 

[BonScott46]

The info came via Wildwood Saws in Fortuna, not my dealer I just stopped by on my way through when i was on vacation.

 

[Wilhelm]

Hey everyone!

I have the part number 1128 434 5000 for the 064/066/660 rear handle heating foil.
Can You Stihl-heads check whether this is the current part number and if there is a newer one please post it!

Thank You very much!

 

[jacob j.]

Hey everyone!

I have the part number 1128 434 5000 for the 064/066/660 rear handle heating foil.
Can You Stihl-heads check whether this is the current part number and if there is a newer one please post it!

Thank You very much!

That's the part number I have in an MS-660 IPL dated 2009. I haven't seen any service bulletins that supersede that part number.

It looks like it's Stihl available through dealers.

 

[Wilhelm]

Yes, supposedly in stock in the US but hyper priced as far as I understood.

Thank You for the additional part number confirmation!

 

[tspeedle]

Bout $40

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

$58.49 from Bryan Equipment in Loveland, Oh. One of the largest Stihl distributors in the U.S.

 

[Wilhelm]

$58.49 from Bryan Equipment in Loveland, Oh. One of the largest Stihl distributors in the U.S.

I paid less for the coil!

My Stihl dealer has the foil in their IPL's, and the part number is correct.
But when he tries to order the foil the system tells him "part number not found".
They will try find out whether the foil can be ordered outside of their computer system.

The genny coil

 

[tspeedle]

If your dealer can’t get it, shoot me a message and we’ll figure something out. Might take a little longer to get to you, international shipping and all but you'll have it eventually

 

[Wilhelm]

If your dealer can’t get it, shoot me a message and we’ll figure something out. Might take a little longer to get to you, international shipping and all but you'll have it eventually

Thank You very much for Your offer, I appretiate it a lot.
I don't need the coil and foil for myself though.
If all else fails I will contact You.

Cheers

 

[spencerdiesel]

Hey you guys I have an early (1st year not sure?) 046 with a scored jug I’m tearing down. I’ve never cleaned up a scored jug (aluminum removal), is muratic acid a thing?
I read probably a year or so ago about a method for aluminum transfer removal that was pretty much everyone’s favorite but I don’t remember the process.
S/N is +133909469
Any help appreciated!

 

[RI Chevy]

Search for green scotch brite method that Mastermind made on Utube. Jugs usually clean up well with just the scotch brite method. Acid only as a last resort. By the looks of the pics, the jug should clean up nice. Maybe go with a new piston for best results.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Stay away from the acid. It used to be what everyone used until they realized you can obtain great results quickly using fairly aggressive abrasives on nikasil plating without wearing through it (unless it's already flaking, of course). Acid on thin plating or in gouges can get to the aluminum underneath and destroy what would otherwise be a salvageable cylinder if abrasives are judiciously used instead.

A very basic setup using a piece of brake line and an eyebolt should handle just about anything when chucked up in a variable speed 3/8's drill and used with common sense.

Red Scotch-Brite is more abrasive than green. I use both. The roll of emery paper is 180 grit plumber's/welder's stuff. Kinda handy to just put the entire roll on a slotted tube so you can cut it back to fresh paper as it wears out/loads up during the process. Another method I use a bit more often these days is a flapper approach with a slotted tube as a mandrel like above, but with a folded strip of whatever grit and size paper is appropriate for the job. I also use the same method with a Dremel when only small areas are involved. The issue there is the rpm's can do damage quickly if you're not paying attention. Bottom line for me is using sandpaper or emery material for removing the aluminum transfer followed by a round or two with Scotch-Brite for final cleanup and finishing for the entire cylinder. 'Course you can also do it all by hand with good ol' elbow grease and blisters if you're nervous about using a power assist method for your first couple of cylinders.



Threading a piece of Scotch-Brite (or even a rag) through the eyebolt provides a means to grip another wad or sheet shoved into the cylinder for maximum contact with the cylinder walls. Works great for a nice uniform finishing treatment and you'll soon get a feel for how much pressure is needed for the desired result(s). You'll also get a feel for how different types of transfers will wear or shred the Scotch-Brite and how to avoid (or at least minimize) that effect for longer life from the material in a given cylinder.
​

The key to all of it is determining whether the cylinder is salvageable to begin with. Aluminum transfer is always removable. What's underneath can be a deal breaker if the plating is bad or gone. You won't know that in most cases until you get rid of the aluminum.

Gouges and scratches are another consideration. It's not uncommon to find scratches in the plating under severe aluminum transfer. They're generally not going to be a problem and can be effectively smoothed. Even gouges can be tolerated if any raised edges can be effectively smoothed. The key to either of these situations is the location of the damage. Anything below the ring travel is potentially acceptable unless it's really bad. Most anything above the ring travel will be considered problematic simply due to the potential (likelyhood?) of compression loss from the inability of the rings to seal against the cylinder wall.

Hope this saves you some blisters, and maybe even your cylinder. Good luck with it.

​

 

[spencerdiesel]

RIchevy thanks I found it!
PogoinTheWoods wow thanks so much! I read that twice I’m making a trip to Lowe’s now! Can you buy split mandrels?
I noticed in masterminds video he had a very tight tolerance split that held the emery tight, it seemed like he made it out of a split nail but how do you get a tight split?
Sweet I’m armed now!