STIHL The Official Stihl Chainsaws Thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

There should be no doubt about that cylinder if it's OEM.

 

[spencerdiesel]

So the both the 046 & 460 cyls are MAHLE and have 52ZN25 on the bases. The o46 has W2 afterwards while the 460 has W1. Both cyls have 1128.
Something else puzzling to me about the 460, it has a D chamber (46 is a D as well)
Tickled they’re OEM cyls! Thoughts?

 

[Country96]

hi
does anyone know where in the UK or how i can get full wrap handles for the 500i
i've got a few mates that want them too, Stihl EU refuse to sell them, ever though there is a market for them
any help would be great
many thanks

 

[happysawer4741]

My Sthil CM261 C-M.

18 " Inch Bar .325

 

[RI Chevy]

Wow. Big bar on that 261cm.
3/8 or .325?

 

[Mastermind]

Wow. Big bar on that 261cm.
3/8 or .325?

A stock 261 runs a 20" .325 surprisingly well. Ported...pulls it with authority.

 

[RI Chevy]

Yes sir. Photo is a bit deceiving. Looked like a 24 to me. I just hope to be alive and well at 82 years of age. Cutting wood would be the icing on the cake.

 

[happysawer4741]

Yes sir. Photo is a bit deceiving. Looked like a 24 to me. I just hope to be alive and well at 82 years of age. Cutting wood would be the icing on the cake.

Just wait till i get the Boots i am ordering from White Boots, Bucking fire wood is not fun wearing hush puppies.

 

[spencerdiesel]

Putting a new top caber ring in the 046 tommorrow and using an old ring for the lower. Should I use the old top ring or bottom?

 

[RI Chevy]

I believe the bottom ring. You want the top tight.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

...using an old ring for the lower. Should I use the old top ring or bottom?

Why not just use another new Caber? But if you're going to use one of the old ones, use the one with the tightest end gap..., probably the bottom one as mentioned.

 

[spencerdiesel]

Ok thanks y’all. I’ve gathered from a lot of the posts on the porting threads (DRF and a few others?) that since the seemingly only Benefit of a 2 ring piston is aiding heat transfer, the 2nd ring adds weight and drag to a high speed stop/start piston only for a marginal (maybe, I’m not sure) improvement in transferring heat from the piston to cyl wall. By using a “loose” ring on the bottom and a new ring on top, you still get the combustion sealing of a new top ring and the thermal transfer from an additional lower, without as much drag as a new lower ring.

 

[Scott Kelsey]

Hi everyone. I am looking for some opinions about the value of a saw, and if this isn't appropriate to ask here than let me know. I have a Stihl 661 Arctic saw I purchased new from a member on here out of Canada. If I had to estimate I would say I have ran 5 full tanks of fuel through the saw. I have the original literature, tool bag, and spark plug wrench that came with the saw. The saw currently has a 36 inch bar with new chain with no use on it (3/8"). The saw is in relatively good condition with a few small knicks but nothing major. I am only looking for opinions. I realize some people are tired of what's it worth threads, but I am thinking of selling to fund a different saw, and really need some opinions as to fair value of I decide to put it up for sale. Thank you for any and all help.

 

[Scott Kelsey]

More pictures

 

[Maintenance Chief]

More pictures

The most important pictures are of the inside.
Even being relatively new I wouldn't touch a saw without seeing the piston and cylinder walls. Maybe not complete disassembly but pictures through the muffler port would help.
After all 100:1 oil mix is a thing that exists for some reason?

 

[Scott Kelsey]

I understand. I actually meant to state that in my post. I was hoping that, assuming everything is fine inside the motor someone may have a value range. I have no problems taking the exhaust off. Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That saw is in excellent condition externally and you should be able to get what you paid for it if it's clean on the inside -- unless you literally paid MSR for it in the first place. Saws depreciate worse than vehicles as soon as they walk out of the retailer's door.

That said, and not to open a whole bag o' snakes, the 661's definitely had issues during their evolution to the latest/greatest M-tron version 3.x, including, but not limited to, top and bottom end failures -- not to mention the solenoid and ECM problems along the way. Your serial number and firmware version may have an impact on value depending on the buyer's level of experience and understanding with/of the saw's production history.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

edit: Sorry I missed the 'bought it new' statement.

You can figure on knocking 20% off of MSRP (for starters) selling that saw 'used'.

 

[Scott Kelsey]

Pogointhewoods, do you have knowledge of said serial numbers and what may fall into the "troublesome" category? If I get the serial number to you can you decifer it for me?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm sorry, but I do not have that specific data at my disposal. Depending on the age of the saw, it may indeed already be a v3.x firmware saw. Look carefully at the label/sticker on the rear handle foot pad for M3.0 as illustrated. If it's there, you're relatively up to date and/or have a serial number falling into the range after the one listd in the document. If not, the ECM (coil) number will indicate the probable firmware version (either v1.0 or v1.1). The color of the carb solenoid can also occasionally shed light on the production era..., especially if green.

The actual hardware issues (bottom end big end bearing failures and top end lean condition damage) were largely due to firmware inadequacies, though I have been told there are confidential internal documents detailing the component failure of the crankshaft in earlier production units.

I hope this helps somewhat.

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