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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

ajschainsaws

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I've been fortunate enough to have a friend that seems to find all sorts of rare saws and especially Dolmars. That is how I came to own a nice CT, and a 166. I now have first dibs on a nice CC with the old style handle if he decides to sell it someday. I got my CA from Europe on eBay, and a 118 from Canada on eBay.

By the way, nothing in my opinion sounds like a CT at idle!

Yeah your right the CT that’s an awesome sound never forgotten
There’s another one called Rex that’s nice as well
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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Ok so I’m going through some dolmar stuff in the shop and maybe you guys can help...

The early 113/116 seem to be a lot closer to a 112/114 than the later model 116si/120si. So my question is was the early 113/116 the same chassis as 112/114? Also we’re their other models that were part of that same chassis family? Trying to sort tubs of parts out...
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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old_sir_henry

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The 113 was intended as successor of the 112. The latter was introduced 1977 and discontinued in 1986
(according to my sources which aren't error-free). 113 was introduced late 1985 and builds on the same chassis as 112, 114, 116, 116 super, 117, 119, 120 and 120 super although there are some differences across the model range (e.g. the mounting points for the ignition differ on some).
However its more or less the same chassis which ist different from that of the 116si and 120si. This one has been in use
for the 6000i and 6800i and is not compatible with 116 and 120.

So the timeline of the model range is something like this:

1976: 119
1977: 112
~1978: 114 and 117
~1982: 120 replaces 119
~1984: 116 und 120 super
~1987: 116 super
~1988: 116si and 120si

The model range in the 80s was a little bit like Apple's range of Macintoshes in mid 1990s: To many models
with too little differences. In parallel they were were introducing the 110 round 1984 and completing this model line
with 115, 109 and 111 in the next few years.
 

Black Dog Chainsaw

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The 113 was intended as successor of the 112. The latter was introduced 1977 and discontinued in 1986
(according to my sources which aren't error-free). 113 was introduced late 1985 and builds on the same chassis as 112, 114, 116, 116 super, 117, 119, 120 and 120 super although there are some differences across the model range (e.g. the mounting points for the ignition differ on some).
However its more or less the same chassis which ist different from that of the 116si and 120si. This one has been in use
for the 6000i and 6800i and is not compatible with 116 and 120.

So the timeline of the model range is something like this:

1976: 119
1977: 112
~1978: 114 and 117
~1982: 120 replaces 119
~1984: 116 und 120 super
~1987: 116 super
~1988: 116si and 120si

The model range in the 80s was a little bit like Apple's range of Macintoshes in mid 1990s: To many models
with too little differences. In parallel they were were introducing the 110 round 1984 and completing this model line
with 115, 109 and 111 in the next few years.

That’s exactly the info I was looking for... generational shift and chassis compatibility. I guess that would have been easier to see had Mike Acre’s site been up to date with the correct years on start/stop production.

So the 113/116 line was only run for a couple years while dolmar shifted from the 112 line to the 109/110/111/115? Kinda like the stihl 042/048 series that was around for a blink of an eye...
 

kfd518

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Got a package from @ajschainsaws today, new flywheel and coil as well as a few other goodies. Haven’t had a chance to put them on yet. Got the old flywheel off though.
Those that have asked for a side by side of the old and new flywheel for being able to try clocking the old flywheel with new coil
Here is a pic of the DCS 9000 / PS 9000 flywheel side by side with the DCS 9010/
PS 9010 flywheel with pole side up.

Edited to add the following.
I just realized that the photo has the 9000 flywheel upside down. It appears the 9010 flywheel key way is clocked about 73 degrees advanced.
7171E1D5-3370-4BE2-BA40-3BD20C90D7A4.jpeg
 
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exSW

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Got a package from @ajschainsaws today, new flywheel and coil as well as a few other goodies. Haven’t had a chance to put them on yet. Got the old flywheel off though.
Those that have asked for a side by side of the old and new flywheel for being able to try clocking the old flywheel with new coil
Here is a pic of the DCS 9000 / PS 9000 flywheel side by side with the DCS 9010/
PS 9010 flywheel with pole side up.
View attachment 207790
You wouldn't happen to have a degree wheel?
 

kfd518

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You wouldn't happen to have a degree wheel?
I already got the newer one put on this morning. I just realized that the photo has the 9000 flywheel upside down. It appears the 9010 flywheel key way is clocked about 73 degrees advanced.
 

kfd518

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On another note my blueberry has the new ignition on but I’m thinking even after a forever long cycle In the ultrasonic that it still has some junk somewhere in the low side as it is having some erratic idle issues.
It passed P&V indefinitely for both, crank rotated 5 times through full rotation in each test.
It starts right up revs immediately doesn’t surge when throttling up slowly.
It acts like it’s going lean though at idle. Never enough to spin the chain.
Loctite 518 with base gasket delete. As said before .024 squish. New oem crank case gasket and seals. No decomp.
Bing 49 with Raisman carb diaphragm kit. One thing I noticed w the Raisman kit was that the locating holes in the pump diaphragm were very slightly off and had the diaphragm puckered a little. I think I will go back in and trim some off of the hole or holes to ensure it sets flat and see if that fixes it.

Well it seems better.

 
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huskyboy

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On another note my blueberry has the new ignition on but I’m thinking even after a forever long cycle In the ultrasonic that it still has some junk somewhere in the low side as it is having some erratic idle issues.
It passed P&V indefinitely for both, crank rotated 5 times through full rotation in each test.
It starts right up revs immediately doesn’t surge when throttling up slowly.
It acts like it’s going lean though at idle. Never enough to spin the chain.
Loctite 518 with base gasket delete. As said before .024 squish. New oem crank case gasket and seals. No decomp.
Bing 49 with Raisman carb diaphragm kit. One thing I noticed w the Raisman kit was that the locating holes in the pump diaphragm were very slightly off and had the diaphragm puckered a little. I think I will go back in and trim some off of the hole or holes to ensure it sets flat and see if that fixes it.

Well it seems better.

Check the throttle that it’s not slightly touching the rubber carb adjustment screw boot. I had to clearance the boot as mine was touching enough to slow it ever so slightly coming down to idle. Took about 2 seconds to fix with a burr. C6A0C05E-DECE-41EF-88CB-35453FEF53B9.jpeg Honestly though... your saw sounds really good in your video.
 

old_sir_henry

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Hi,

these days I started my latest project a rebuild of PS-7900.

The saw has been lying around for more than 2 years now without me being able to make up my mind what to do
with her.
The saw has a broken crank at he clutch side. Thats the bad news. The good news is it has received a 85cc big bore
top end from its previous owner after a piston size and then only few hours later the crank broke. So the top end is
almost new.
That's the state I bought her.


7900_broken_crank.jpg

As you can see the oil pump has been damaged by the rampant clutch drum the visible slut goes down to the oil channel.

7900_oilpump_fixed.jpg

Fixed that with epoxy after having cleaned the pump housing in the ultrasonic bath.

A muffler mod is on its way. I have decided to add a second outlet to the flywheel side of the can and have prepared a
deflector for it.
I was amazed of the can being totally empty other than the birdcage.
Opened up that one's main opening by about a third of its original aperture.

7900_muffler_inside.jpg

7900_muffler_birdcage_deflector.jpg

I will keep posting more fotos when the project progresses, however it doesn't have very high priority and currently I'm waiting for some tools I ordered...
 

kfd518

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Check the throttle that it’s not slightly touching the rubber carb adjustment screw boot. I had to clearance the boot as mine was touching enough to slow it ever so slightly coming down to idle. Took about 2 seconds to fix with a burr. View attachment 207960 Honestly though... your saw sounds really good in your video.
Thank you @huskyboy .
That video was after trimming the hole on the pump membrane. And putting everything back together. It would come down to idle and then pick back up like it was lean when it was doing what it was doing. It does sound LOTS better than it did.
 

RI Chevy

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Very nice.
Who ported it?
What chain were you using?
What kind of tree were they?
 
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