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DOLMAR/MAKITA The Official Sachs Dolmar Dolmar Makita Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

Black Dog Chainsaw

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Wasn’t Rich out of SD/ND the one re-jetting the 6400-7900 series Zama carbs? New phone so I lost some contacts... anyone got his digits for me?
 

Ayetee61

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Any ideas what I could do for an under oiling 6100 the bar gets hot within a few cuts and the oiler is turned all the way up? Chain tension feels good too
 

Wilhelm

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I have noticed that my 6100 isn't oiling as much as I'd like and did the following.

Take calipers and check the distance from the saws studs to the oiler outlet on the case and compare it to the oiler hole position on Your bar - it will most likely be slightly off.
Open the oiler hole on Your bar TOWARDS the oiler outlet of Your saws case.
I did this last weekend on my 6100's Tsumura bar on one side, seemed to help!
I used a small diamond burr, took me just a minute or two.

Just drilling the oiler hole on the bar open does very little if the hole is not perfectly aligned to the saws oiler outlet.
 

RI Chevy

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I have noticed the same with mine.
I also noticed that the Tsumura and Oregon bars for the baby mount K095 are slightly different when mounted up on the saw. I found the Oregon bar oils a bit better than Tsumura, even though Tsumura has a larger oil hole. Not exactly sure why.
 

huskyboy

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Any ideas what I could do for an under oiling 6100 the bar gets hot within a few cuts and the oiler is turned all the way up? Chain tension feels good too
All bars get hot on saws after cutting. How hot does it get?
 

RI Chevy

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On my Husky 262, when I mount the Husky Oregon bar on saw and tension the chain then back it off a bit to remove, then mount the Tsumura bar, the seems to be a 1/4" to 3/8" difference lengthwise between the bars.
Not exactly sure if it has anything to do with the oiling or not. Haven't got that far yet.
BUT the Oregon bar definitely oils better than the Tsumura.
 

Wilhelm

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On my K095 Tsumura the oiling hole is rather small and directed upwards to the rails.
During the few cuts I've made with this bar the chains DL's always seemed rather dry with just a mist of oil on them.

I do not agree, a bar should not get hot!
Warm yes, but not hot to the point one can not hold it firmly without wanting to let it go.
Heat is the result of friction, You don't want excessive friction between Your bar and chain.
The only times I notice my B&C to be hot are when:
- chain is dull and I am utilizing the saws spikes
- I am cutting very dry wood
- insufficient oiling on B&C caused by any of many reasons, often just a misaligned and or too small oiling hole in the bar
 

RI Chevy

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Just mentioning, I notice my .050 bars are much "warmer" than my. 063 bars. I think the smaller grooves have something to do with the heat building up. Maybe inherently they do not oil as well?
 

Wilhelm

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It gets hot enough to burn me.. when I check for oil after the bar cools down there's a minimal amount in the rail
That's too hot!

Not imposing anything, are You running the correct gauge chain in Your bar?
I ran a .063" that I didn't know it was one in a .058" bar - I noticed weeks later while sorting my chains.
Luckily noting bad nor permanent happened, it seems this particular bar is worn out enough after 13 years of usage to accommodate a .063" gauge chain.

All I am saying, it is worth taking a caliper to Your chains DL's and a feeler gauge to Your bar.

I only used to have .058" in 3/8", both bars and chains.
Through some generous gifts and purchases I now have chains in .050" .058" & .063", and bars in .050" & .058" - to say the least, swapping chains between saws got less simple.
 

Ayetee61

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Is this just the nature of the 6100? Or is there something wrong with the oil pump/alignment of the bar?
 
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