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Tecomec Super Jolly for $270?

Lightning Performance

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If you wire it hot to a 3 position DPDT switch, you might be able to use just one switch, but one winding of the field would be hot all times it’s plugged in. The second picture shows how i got two switches in the spot the factory has the one switch in

no, just spinning in the opposite direction, same load in either direction
I forgets some stuff. Eggsellent point.
Cool, next case good sir.

Should I go the same two switch route on the SM motor?
Left handed has been part of my arsenal from a long time ago.

Large DC drive speed controllers seem to be a thing of the past.
I have been gathering bits to get after one again. Half horse should do it or run a mag drive motor on a gear box which I prefer not to do. I have old singer motors but they lack grunt for bigger tool heads. DC has all the balls.
 

Moparmyway

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Large DC drive speed controllers seem to be a thing of the past.
DC has all the balls.
I’ve put 7,500 watts to a prop on a piece of foam with a small DC driven speed controller and a rather small brushless motor (2, 4, and 6 pole motors).

Even Variable Frequency Drives driven by 240 or 208 3phase can do anything you want it to, there’s plenty out there to play around with, while not having to rectify or cobble
 

Lightning Performance

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Three phase means... at home I need to get a transformer or build one small scale to run 3-5 amps. Then drop it down to my liking with some magic pills :)

Foot pedal fun
 

Moparmyway

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Variable Frequency Drives driven by 240 or 208 3phase can do anything you want it to, there’s plenty out there to play around with, while not having to rectify or cobble
Three phase means... at home I need to get a transformer or build one small scale to run 3-5 amps.
240 is NOT 3 phase
At home, you would just need the VFD
 

RI Chevy

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Three phase, three legs of power. Provides higher volume.
 

huskihl

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Pardon my ignorance, but why would you need to run in reverse?
When you grind the left hand cutters, the wheel spins away from you and leaves a burr on the outside of the tooth. Reversing the wheel would cut from the outside in, but the drawback is that it throws sparks towards you
 

Philbert

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When you grind the left hand cutters, the wheel spins away from you and leaves a burr on the outside of the tooth.

Really!?! First guys complain about grinders overheating their cutters, and now they are worried that they get too cold (Burrr!)?

Reversing the wheel would cut from the outside in, but the drawback is that it throws sparks towards you
Other 'drawback' is that if the wheel explodes (happens infrequently with any vitrified grinding wheel) the pieces will be launched toward the operator - the guards are not designed to contain or deflect them rotating in reverse.

Philbert
 

huskihl

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Really!?! First guys complain about grinders overheating their cutters, and now they are worried that they get too cold (Burrr!)?


Other 'drawback' is that if the wheel explodes (happens infrequently with any vitrified grinding wheel) the pieces will be launched toward the operator - the guards are not designed to contain or deflect them rotating in reverse.

Philbert
I see the benefits and drawbacks and have tried it both ways. The burrs flake off instantly so I pretty much just roll with the way it came.
 

Philbert

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I have not personally used the MAXX grinder, but understand that there is enough travel in the grinder head and chain vise to allow chains to be mounted in both directions, eliminating the 'burr' without changing the rotation of the grinding wheels.

Philbert
 

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A little thread resurrection here fellas. I finally decided I wanted to get this grinder, for full comp chains, and for times when I have more than 1 chain to sharpen. I searched and found this thread and seeing as it was 2 years old and the price was 270 then, when I saw this grinder for 298 a week ago, I went ahead and ordered it. I had 2 36" loops that needed sharpened, 1 skip and the other full comp. Now I'm wondering why the heck I waited so long!

I'll get pictures tomorrow, but man, that was alot fast than hand filing that many teeth. I didn't do rakers, and will probably just do those by hand.

I'm fairly proficient, with hand filing, but after a loop (I don't use anything less than 28" bars) I'm about tired of filing. So as of now, this same grjnder is available on Amazkn from Archer for 298 with free shipping, in case anyone was on the fence like I was.

Thanks for the thread, even though it's a couple years in the making!
 

CR888

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Really!?! First guys complain about grinders overheating their cutters, and now they are worried that they get too cold (Burrr!)?


Other 'drawback' is that if the wheel explodes (happens infrequently with any vitrified grinding wheel) the pieces will be launched toward the operator - the guards are not designed to contain or deflect them rotating in reverse.

Philbert
That's a good point, I've had 3 pink wheels 'explode' & it gives you a good fright! They really go bang & make you feel stupid for not wearing ANSI safety glasses. I have my grinder setup quite high so I can see clearly what's happening during the grind, so my face is close to the action. And when the pink wheel goes boom I don't think you would want the wheel spinning in the opposite direction.
 

KS Plainsman

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Well, I finally got around to getting some pictures of the grinder and chain. I'm not sure if it's the fact that I'm just not steady enough or what, but good grief I had a heck of a time getting pictures of the cutter, so hopefully it shows up good.

IMG_20200810_171803_811.jpg IMG_20200810_171803_811.jpg IMG_20200810_171803_811.jpg IMG_20200810_171934_782.jpg IMG_20200810_172044_694.jpg IMG_20200810_172055_373.jpg I just did a quick 4x4 post mount, that I put in my vise. I'm 6'5, so it's nice having things I'm working on at a good height so I don't have to hunch over.

I'm pretty sure I looked like the safety glasses warning after a few minutes of using this thing, with the addition of a big ole grin that is.
 
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