r7000
Well-Known OPE Member
KM90R-Z
2006
4180-011-5310
always used stihl ultra oil, light duty at home use.
I have pulled the carb and cleaned, reinstalled, still basically starts right up especially when cold with choke,
but will only run for a little bit with the choke on and full trigger throttle, but rpm-wise is only maybe 1/4 speed and it's brrrrrrr no power and will only run for 5-10 seconds.
If I had to guess, being 4 mix, it sounds like the compression relief that opens the valve briefly when pull starting, is not disengaging once running, causing whichever valve to open on the compression stroke.
I've pulled the valve cover, the valve lash felt acceptable... i've done valves before from boat engines to honda gcv mowers so pretty sure not a valve lash problem.
Pulled the cam cover and pulled the cam wheel, no signs anywhere of where. I watched some youtube on the subject, anything mentioned on the topic for wear and problems I did not find. The plastic cam wheel lobe looks fine, as do the lifters that ride the cam and the pin bushing fits well into the cam cover.
i've ordered a replacement cam wheel.
Any insight that anyone can provide? I'm pretty sure it's not the carb, and I don't think it would be the spark plug or ignition coil.
question: in my haste I forget to observe before removing cam wheel... to reinstall cam wheel and have proper position/timing is it just the arrow on flywheel pointing to the ignition coil pickup, and then having cam installed with lobe straight up?
I can post pics later tonight if needed. thanks.
2006
4180-011-5310
always used stihl ultra oil, light duty at home use.
I have pulled the carb and cleaned, reinstalled, still basically starts right up especially when cold with choke,
but will only run for a little bit with the choke on and full trigger throttle, but rpm-wise is only maybe 1/4 speed and it's brrrrrrr no power and will only run for 5-10 seconds.
If I had to guess, being 4 mix, it sounds like the compression relief that opens the valve briefly when pull starting, is not disengaging once running, causing whichever valve to open on the compression stroke.
I've pulled the valve cover, the valve lash felt acceptable... i've done valves before from boat engines to honda gcv mowers so pretty sure not a valve lash problem.
Pulled the cam cover and pulled the cam wheel, no signs anywhere of where. I watched some youtube on the subject, anything mentioned on the topic for wear and problems I did not find. The plastic cam wheel lobe looks fine, as do the lifters that ride the cam and the pin bushing fits well into the cam cover.
i've ordered a replacement cam wheel.
Any insight that anyone can provide? I'm pretty sure it's not the carb, and I don't think it would be the spark plug or ignition coil.
question: in my haste I forget to observe before removing cam wheel... to reinstall cam wheel and have proper position/timing is it just the arrow on flywheel pointing to the ignition coil pickup, and then having cam installed with lobe straight up?
I can post pics later tonight if needed. thanks.