Stihl 066 Operator Said, "It Stopped Dead."

[jmssaws]

If the temp changes the tune changes.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

I wonder if the guy who fried the 066 would agree no need to check screw (slot) locations. have to admit a discussion such as this broadens one's appreciation for what I would call '
a pre-flight... and a fire up." I will 'look at' starting my saws in a broader sense having read other's ideas, methods on the subject.

>and I can hear as well as feel a difference as the day warms up, the saws are allways getting adjusted

as I say, interesting to read other's perspectives on the subject. I certainly will be thinking about this post above. I may not run my saws all day, but I want them to run every day! I choose to use them... good info from the field!

 

[jmssaws]

Lots of saws run for years without being adjusted but there fat,if you want most power you have to tune regularly.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

In the first minute or so of warming up I can tell if any of mine need adjusting, and I can hear as well as feel a difference as the day warms up, the saws are allways getting adjusted

if you wouldn't mind, can you elaborate on how you go from start up, what u r listening for... and when and how u set your jets so as to ensure best running of your saw while cutting wood...? I have read numerous comments on subject, but I would be interested in how you do it. as in 'the saws are always getting adjusted'

thanks in advance.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Lots of saws run for years without being adjusted but there fat,if you want most power you have to tune regularly.

can you elaborate further on your tuning techniques. I can read even see over at the 'tube... but I am interested in what you do, too... if you would care to comment, also. thanks

 

[jmssaws]

I tune the low side to just off lean surge then set my high to a light 4 stroke.
Of course one changes the other

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

I tune the low side to just off lean surge then set my high to a light 4 stroke.
Of course one changes the other

>I tune the low side to just off lean

so once LA is where u want it, then tune L to where it sounds crispest... engine idling, no throttle...? then back off a tweak? maybe 1/16th turn CCW?

>then set my high to a light 4 stroke.

engine warmed up, L set... then WOT to peak rpm turning H CW... then back it CCW til u get the 4-stroke burble?... then ck L and readjust both etc...

then when you cut, the load will make the saw peak front side of the 4-cycle... or u want to use ur saw a bit fat, so keep it just in 4-cycle as u cut wood and engine gets loaded to work... ie chain and it cutting...?

then if from idle to off idle to WOT if u get good solid throttle response, you then are happy?

thkx for reply ~

 

[redtractor]

Lots of saws run for years without being adjusted but there fat...

The customer base at our place is all homeowners with plastic Poulans and such. The luckiest ones need warranty work immediately and I get to richen them up. That's the only way big box store saws will ever get to run for years. That being said, our dealer agreements requires us to tune the 2 stroke equipment before it leaves.

 

[jmssaws]

I set the la to where it's just touching then set the low then the high then the low then the high.

It's very easy after you learn how.

Want a video?

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

The customer base at our place is all homeowners with plastic Poulans and such. The luckiest ones need warranty work immediately and I get to richen them up. That's the only way big box store saws will ever get to run for years. That being said, our dealer agreements requires us to tune the 2 stroke equipment before it leaves.

interesting! if your dealership agreement requires u to tune the 2-strokes... do you tune them like others... bit fat? or to specifications suggested by mfgr?

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

I set the la to where it's just touching then set the low then the high then the low then the high.

It's very easy after you learn how.

Want a video?

sure! pix great, vids better...

 

[jmssaws]

I'll do it tomorrow, bout dark and it's below zero. I run my saw earlier and the wood is froze

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

I'll do it tomorrow, bout dark and it's below zero. I run my saw earlier and the wood is froze

ok, thanks for the offer... no rush, just at your convenience... looking fwd to seeing it.

 

[redtractor]

interesting! if your dealership agreement requires u to tune the 2-strokes... do you tune them like others... bit fat? or to specifications suggested by mfgr?

Off the top of my head, I can't remember how they state it on paper but they probably have numbers they want us to match. After hanging out on these sites and taking care of my own stuff, I tune it in wood (or in grass for trimmers) and throw in just a hair on the fat side. I get saws in the summer and I make it even more rich because I know for sure these folks will use it in the winter without getting it checked over again.

 

[jmssaws]

Here's one of my red light saws, got a new 9 pin today. Wood is froze

 

[Moparmyway]

I warm up my stuff idling, or short pulls of throttle to keep it running at low rpm untill it can idle.

After a minute or so at idle, I piss rev to listen. Tune the low for crispiness, then I tune in the wood for max RPM while cutting under full load.

I dont really care about tuning WOT unloaded, except to say that I will richen the saw to slow it down if needed.

For example,
- my 90cc saws stay under 14,000
- my 70cc saws stay under 15,000

 

[Wood Doctor]

I tune the low side to just off lean surge then set my high to a light 4 stroke. Of course one changes the other.

Therein lies the secret. The high is set to a light 4-stroke until the engine starts to feel a load. Then it will kick into two-stroke at WOT and run like a champion with plenty of torque. Many loggers cutting huge logs have told me the same thing, but only if you want to prolong engine life. Most loggers do.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Mitch does a great job here.....

 

[Redfin]

Perhaps the biggest mystery I have now is why the spark shut down also when the fried piston locked up. That's a chicken vs. the egg problem. Which came first? Usually a failing ignition module quits slowly, kind of like a sputtering engine running out of fuel. This one quit delivering a spark but only needed a regap and is now back in business.

I think moving the lead probably solved the no spark condition. Assuming you saw no bare spot in the lead. I would check connection at the coil, spring at the end by plug and continuity of lead.

 

[angelo c]

r

I do know an air-cooled aircraft engine has no flywheel cooling each cylinder, although it does have an airstream once in air and some effect off prop, but at hub of prop & 1/3 up while taxiing not much... ... and at WOT there is an incredible amount of heat taxing the 50:1 ratio (or whatever u run at) lubrication process. speaking of taxes, its kinda like this to me:

!

Most air cooled aircraft engines are equipt with a big red knob in the dash that allows more or less fuel to cool with. That knob in a 2 stroke saw is not easily accessible....in flight...er in the cut.
Also it is of paramount importance that the baffling in the engine compartment be in perfect running condition to access the "air cooling" which is very similar to the "flywheel". Ultimately though the engines are designed to operate in different RPM/torque output ranges and for different efficiencies.

I spent a few years as a ramp rat too.