Sthil 036 problem

[Agent Smith]

Um you don't use that everyday...do you?

Nope. Why?

 

[Al Smith]

I'm not sure exactly what I did to the one rebuilt .It would have been unusual if I hadn't done something to the muffler .

 

[MACHINE]

Pics first.
Others will chime in.
Whole thread on muffler mods here

Surprise us. Dont go too big.
Enlarge the hole to the back of the deflector. It lets the heat out plain and simple.

Make sure you wash out all the metal chips.

I did muffler mod on my Husqvarna 44, it really woke it up

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[MACHINE]

Lee from little red barn called me , we went over the incorrect wrist pin size and in piston as well, he was headed back to warehouse to go through all his 036 pistons .

Heck of a nice guy ,
Was really concerned about customer.



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[RI Chevy]

You should add a 2nd port to the muffler. On the starter side. Should make a good difference.

 

[Al Smith]

On those cans when I get through with them all is left is the shell .No screens ,no baffle cage,no diverters . Second hole with a shroud .Takes maybe a half hour 45 minutes ,makes a difference .As far as modifying a saw the cheapest thing you can do .No money just elbow grease .

 

[MACHINE]

Lean. Vac test it. Find the leak

Only leak I could find was the compression release , it could have been the base gasket, I deleted it , holds 7 psi for 2 minutes easy , vacs falls a bit but not much,

Doing muffler after race , tune tomorrow after rtv sets up overnight

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[MACHINE]

Went ahead, tuned , damn good saw, 145 psi on new piston before I started it .

Muffler mod woke it up , pulls good

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[MACHINE]

Lean. Vac test it. Find the leak

I'm still a little confused on vac n pressure test ,, how the hell can a saw leak on vacuum a little but hold 7psi pressure for 5 minutes???

Saw runs great but it will not hold vacuum for a minute..

Worry about it?
Or run it like ya stole it??

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[cuinrearview]

Keep in mind that every cycle the seals, gaskets, etc face equal numbers of pressure and vaccuum forces...

 

[MACHINE]

Keep in mind that every cycle the seals, gaskets, etc face equal numbers of pressure and vaccuum forces...

I know, I turned crank and pressure held fine,

But will leak on vacuum every time.

It's driving me crazy.

Saw absolutely runs perfectly, no lean out at full cut , made about 10 cuts with it yesterday.

Think I should retest vacuum after I ran it??

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[fossil]

I know, I turned crank and pressure held fine,

But will leak on vacuum every time.

It's driving me crazy.

Saw absolutely runs perfectly, no lean out at full cut , made about 10 cuts with it yesterday.

Think I should retest vacuum after I ran it??

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

That's very typical of crank seals needing replacement.

The the sealing lip holds well under pressure from the crankcase side but not from the outside so air slips past the lip when the crankcase is under vacuum.

The saw will eventually go lean at some point and if you're in a long cut it might do some P&C damage.

I would change them now.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Remove the decomp and install a plug. If you did that already it needs seals or a case gasket. Could be the carb or impulse line. Find the leak.

 

[MACHINE]

Remove the decomp and install a plug. If you did that already it needs seals or a case gasket. Could be the carb or impulse line. Find the leak.

Cannot find leak , it has to be the decompression release, where you get your plugs to delete them

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Lightning Performance]

Cannot find leak , it has to be the decompression release, where you get your plugs to delete them

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Just use some teflon tape and plug the hole with a pipe plug. They sell plugs everywhere. Just match the threads and don't crank it down too tight. A short bolt with teflon tape will work in a pinch. Most of use and have extra plugs from cylinder kits. They have a flat washer seat on those. Your dealer should sell the correct plug to eliminate the decomp. You can make one with an old decomp valve and a welder or have one made up locally.

Decomp always leaks under vacuum.

 

[Al Smith]

I think it might be a non issue if you think about it .The pressure/vac test is done under a static condition which under a dynamic or running condition at say 10-12 thousand RPM it wouldn't draw in enough air to hurt any thing .Fire it up,run it a bit then "read " the spark plug .That should tell the tale .BTW the decomp is a poppit type valve that seals under pressure .

 

[huskihl]

Usually you can just spin the decomp back-and-forth while holding it out and it will make a seal long enough to do a vacuum check. If you look at the needle for five seconds and it doesn’t move, that’s all you’re looking for. A saw that won’t run correctly won’t hold any vacuum at all

 

[Lightning Performance]

This guy has taken the vacuum test to the EXstreame... I like it.

 

[RI Chevy]

Vacuum is vacuum after all.

 

[MACHINE]

Usually you can just spin the decomp back-and-forth while holding it out and it will make a seal long enough to do a vacuum check. If you look at the needle for five seconds and it doesn’t move, that’s all you’re looking for. A saw that won’t run correctly won’t hold any vacuum at all

It will hold 20 seconds

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk