simington grinder

[pbillyi69]

can someone tell me how to check the runout on a D shaped motor shaft. my grinder and stand got tipped over by an air hose. I have to re shim the motor, or at least check it. it landed on a jack stand directly on the wheel. i dont know how to check for runout on the D shaped shaft.

 

[SimonHS]

Have you got a pulley that fits the shaft? Put it on and check run-out on the pulley. Otherwise you could turn something on a lathe that would fit the shaft.

Or is the shaft centre drilled? Use a wiggler or sticky pin on the centre. A sticky pin is just something needle shaped mounted on Bluetack. The point of the needle rides in the centre hole and indicates if the shaft is true or not.

 

[chipper1]

Can't you just mount a wheel and try it.
I'd be sure not to let it spin up very fast at first. Once you feel good about it, see how it runs on a cutter.

 

[pbillyi69]

i havent tried putting a wheel on it to see if it is worse. it had a little bit of runout before. i know i could check it on the arbor. i dont know if there is a center hole. i will look today. i have some chains that need to be ground

 

[Junk Meister]

My suggestion mite help.
Put a new wheel on, put a referencing mark on shaft and the wheel (as close to center of wheel as possible)
Finingle a steady rest, to reveal a minimum of day light between rest and new wheel rim.
rotate wheel and check for irregular gaps as you rotate wheel (By hand "DUH")
a reference mark on outer perimeter of wheel might be helpful or mebbe just get complicated.
Don't forget to say your 3 Hail Marys'.
When I straighten a push mower I have a snug fitting tube/pipe on shaft then put a self judged amount of pressure on tube as you strike the tube near the end of shaft. You need to apply the common sense as to where the high and low spot are at.
GOOD LUCK

 

[blades]

Grinding wheels always have some run out both in the horizontal as well as the vertical so that makes kind hard to use for your purpose. You could stop at hardware store and get a stop collar that fits the diameter of the shaft( mounts with set screw) take a reading off that. those would have a pretty tight slip fit /close to a press fit.

 

[Junk Meister]

Grinding wheels always have some run out both in the horizontal as well as the vertical so that makes kind hard to use for your purpose. You could stop at hardware store and get a stop collar that fits the diameter of the shaft( mounts with set screw) take a reading off that. those would have a pretty tight slip fit /close to a press fit.

I reread my post. Forgot to say reposition wheel on shaft then re check clearances. repeat . The mark on the rim would be where I would measure from. It "AIN'T" rocket science but would verify if shaft is tweaked. And CHEAP TOO. There are many other worm holes in my post but it is a start.
A diamond wheel would be tighter in tolerance than a ?vitrified? wheel/stone.
Blades- your stop collar will work as well. a reference mark like the set crew as reference so any take up slack between shaft and ID of collar would hypothetically be in the same place.

 

[pbillyi69]

i put a wheel on it and dressed it it work but it vibrates/shakes a bit. i have it pretty close on the shimming. still need to tweek it a little but close. the shaft is bent a little unless it knocked the arbor off a little although i doubt it since it is pretty tight on the shaft.

 

[blades]

take your wheel and check it for balance. easy to make a balance unit, hard part is finding an arbor of the correct size.

 

[pbillyi69]

i took the wheel off and measured against the arbor the shaft is bent for sure. they wont tell me at saw creek what the specs for the motor is. he said i should just buy a new motor from him. there are several electric motor shops here that have been around for more than 100 years. im sure one of them will be able to hook me up with a new armature if i take the one i have to them.