Show off your muffler mods

[Deets066]

I like dual pipes on the Stihls, for a worksaw anyway

 

[ADMO services]

Every saw muffler design will sound different with the same port area. What’s important is to get the port area large enough to make the resonant cavity sing the note you like without it sounding like a wasp nest having a circle jerk in a tin can as well as negativity effecting performance. Or if you like a low rumble make the cavity larger with a smaller port area. Not too easy to redesign mufflers to fit some of the tight areas. But stihl saws tend to have a large can and sound really nice with 2 large ports. Work saws can get away with larger port area as far as performance since they aren’t bleeding off as much compression during blowdown. But hey that’s all trial and error as well as personal preference.

 

[drf256]

I find tig brazing to be the easiest method for muff mods bar none. Forgiving of impurities and bad fit up. Fills drilled out spot weld holes with ease. Wicks in and is faster on long runs. Not as clean as a perfect tig weld, cut darn close.

It also takes less amps, so blowthrough on base metal much less of an issue.

I use 1/16 SilBronze rod. Try it once and you’ll never go back.

 

[drf256]

As for “Cleaning” action, there is zero in the HF arc that actually cleans anything.

‘Cleaning’ action refers to AC tig when the change from DCEN to DCEP helps break off the Aluminum or Mag oxide layer so the puddle stays clean and allows filler rod to be introduced into the puddle without contamination.

I use a square wave inverter. It switches polarity so fast that the arc is maintained without HF. Even if HF stays on, it’s rated at mA and contributes nearly nothing to the arc or weld puddle.

It’s only there to avoid scratch start contamination.

 

[ADMO services]

Right wrong or indifferent I work at a power plant and an I&e tech. I’m no welder but our boiler tubes get a lot of porosity because of chemicals Plating in the tubes. Part of my job is to maintain the welding machines. I’ve had welders from all over the us say they want it on and it will help them clean the porosity. Some swear by and some don’t. I don’t claim my way is correct just sharing information

 

[ADMO services]

Some have even asked me to jumper it on in new igbt inverted machines while set to dc

 

[ADMO services]

I’m a big fan of your work RC

 

[ADMO services]

I find tig brazing to be the easiest method for muff mods bar none. Forgiving of impurities and bad fit up. Fills drilled out spot weld holes with ease. Wicks in and is faster on long runs. Not as clean as a perfect tig weld, cut darn close.

It also takes less amps, so blowthrough on base metal much less of an issue.

I use 1/16 SilBronze rod. Try it once and you’ll never go back.

View attachment 221089 View attachment 221090 View attachment 221091

Brazing is the better option I absolutely cannot deny

 

[Deets066]

Every saw muffler design will sound different with the same port area. What’s important is to get the port area large enough to make the resonant cavity sing the note you like without it sounding like a wasp nest having a circle jerk in a tin can as well as negativity effecting performance. Or if you like a low rumble make the cavity larger with a smaller port area. Not too easy to redesign mufflers to fit some of the tight areas. But stihl saws tend to have a large can and sound really nice with 2 large ports. Work saws can get away with larger port area as far as performance since they aren’t bleeding off as much compression during blowdown. But hey that’s all trial and error as well as personal preference.

First you need to find resonant frequency of the size and shape of the muffler.
Then to determine port area for desired sound, you need to determine the ratio of bore to stroke with the exhaust port as Y and blowdown as X.




After all that your bumps will be slammin with the ol’ triple 6 mafia

 

[ADMO services]

First you need to find resonant frequency of the size and shape of the muffler.
Then to determine port area for desired sound, you need to determine the ratio of bore to stroke with the exhaust port as Y and blowdown as X.




After all that your bumps will be slammin with the ol’ triple 6 mafia

This guy has built some speaker boxes!!! Hahhah

 

[ADMO services]

I only listen to death metal. How do I make my exhaust note have distortion, machine gun double bass, and death growls? Lol

 

[dahmer]

I only listen to death metal. How do I make my exhaust note have distortion, machine gun double bass, and death growls? Lol

Braze piano wire or guitar strings across the exhaust opening and when she’s wide open run your fingers across them like Jimi Hendrix.

 

[ADMO services]

Yes I’m a tattooed up metal head. Guitar, drums, and vocals. But believe it or not I love classical music and I play the piano and violin also Hahha

 

[ADMO services]

Braze piano wire or guitar strings across the exhaust opening and when she’s wide open run your fingers across them like Jimi Hendrix.

Best idea yet hahha

 

[Onan18]

View attachment 221085View attachment 221086View attachment 221087View attachment 221088

I like dual pipes on the Stihls, for a worksaw anyway

That muffler looks familiar.

 

[MG porting]

I mig em or tig em. Brazing isn’t my thing

That's because brazing is a pain in the ass for the one's who can just tig. Lol

 

[MG porting]

That is one strange dood.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Yes I’m a tattooed up metal head. Guitar, drums, and vocals. But believe it or not I love classical music and I play the piano and violin also Hahha

Ever listen to 3 inches of blood? One of my favorites

 

[Fruecrue]

That's because brazing is a pain in the ass for the one's who can just tig. Lol

I have a tig rig in the garage, it is also my stick machine which is the way it generally stays set up.
I braze mufflers because I can be done in the time it takes to swap processes, which is less than 5 minutes.

Still solid at 1200 degrees Fahrenheit, silver solder or brazing alloy has more than enough strength for a muffler mod, unless your muffler is beginning to glow red, you’re still at full strength.

45% silver with white brazing flux for the initial tinning and brazing (most of the time all you need), 15% silver once you have already made a bond to the base metal. 15% has a much wider liquidous range and allows you to build and fill large gaps by controlling your heat.

I have yet to try tig brazing which Al swears by, mostly because I’m a stubborn butthead that doesn’t like to try new things.

 

[ferris]

Where are the race saw muffler?