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Wilhelm

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dangerousatom

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Not actively, I was at a forge a few years ago for a family get together. It was an 8 hour thing along with knowledgeable people for tips so I had time to screw around with it until it was right.

From what I remember its all about heat control. If you get good steel too hot it will go brittle if not brought down properly. Supposedly the cutting edge of that tomahawk is harder then the rest of it because of the way we cooled it down. It holds a razor sharp edge good enough to shave the hair off your hand.
 

Wilhelm

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Not actively, I was at a forge a few years ago for a family get together. It was an 8 hour thing along with knowledgeable people for tips so I had time to screw around with it until it was right.

From what I remember its all about heat control. If you get good steel too hot it will go brittle if not brought down properly. Supposedly the cutting edge of that tomahawk is harder then the rest of it because of the way we cooled it down. It holds a razor sharp edge good enough to shave the hair off your hand.
I have a basic understanding of steel hardening/quenching and tempering.
I had a class in highschool regarding steel alloys and involved machining.
Unfortunately most got forgotten as I did not use that info at all at my job.

Even in factory intended form 12.9 grade bolt steel is quite hard due to its alloy composition.

I welded a 12.9 grade bolt shaft onto one of my worn down hatchets, just ground the blade back into shape with a 9" angle grinder afterwards.
I considered quenching the blade, but decided to give it a chance "stock" - it is holding up quite well to abuse.
I need to take pictures of it, sharpen it, and keep tracking how it behaves.

Due to a project I was obsessed with (and that spiraled out of sane control) I have a bunch of cut off 12.9 grade bolt pieces and was just wondering what I could do with them other than utilizing them as round stock when possible or scrap them which would be a waste.

IMG_20251114_122146~2.jpg

My hatchet fix

 

Wilhelm

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Curious how good the bolt worked out for the ax edge. Is the steel too soft or too hard or too brittle?
It has been a couple months since I did the fix and the hatchet got used and abused.
The blade is holding up very well all things considered.
I will try remember taking pictures of it tomorrow and give it a first sharpening since the fix got done.

The 12.9 grade bolt steel blade is hard enough to withstand abuse, yet not too hard to be brittle.

I have kinda become obsessed with 12.9 grade bolt steel.
So much so that working some 10.9 grade bolts doesn't tickle my fancy much, even though it is a good alloy.
 

Woodslasher

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I got this unusual little hatchet head for £15 / $20 plus postage. It weighs 1lb 11oz. The eye is circular and 3/4" in diameter. Its smooth, rounded shape fits nicely in the hand. It arrived with quite a sharp edge. It looks quite old. I can't find any info about the manufacturer.

I'm thinking that it is a travel or pack axe. It would be carried in a leather sheath (now missing) and when needed a stick would be cut from a tree or hedge, tapered and stuck in the eye as a handle.

Has anyone seen a similar hatchet?

View attachment 473840View attachment 473841View attachment 473842View attachment 473843View attachment 473844
Shepherds axe is kinda what it looks like to me.
 

Wilhelm

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Here is the first impression of my hatchet blade fix.
Close to 10 months of nearly daily use.
IMG_20251118_133154.jpg

A couple minutes with a small angle grinder flap disk.
IMG_20251118_143625.jpg
IMG_20251118_143635.jpg

And a couple minutes with a Husqvarna flat file to get the bur off.
IMG_20251118_144602.jpg
IMG_20251118_144610.jpg

I am not going to quench this hatchets blade.
The welded on ISO 12.9 grade bolt steel is exactly what this hatchet needs.

There is a a small nick in the blade after grinding, it will get ground out on future sharpening's.
 
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eric4

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Here's my hang of the day - Keesteel 2kg Tasmanian on a hard curve hickory.

I boiled the head in black tea for an hour, to convert the red rust into a hardened black coating, which has a great look. The handle was darkened with a few coats of vinegar/steel wool to oxidize the wood. After looking at it all finished, I wish I had taken some wood off the shoulder of the handle, but overall I'm proud of this one.

image.jpg2025-11-20-11-29-05-616.jpg2025-11-20-11-28-39-421.jpg
 

eric4

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Today's fresh hang - A five pounder tasmanian on a 32" fawns foot. Flat grind with a microbevel.

Unsure of the maker, so if anyone has an idea, I'm all ears! It's a beauty though2025-11-21-14-54-56-810.jpg
 

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Sloughfoot

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Today's fresh hang - A five pounder tasmanian on a 32" fawns foot. Flat grind with a microbevel.

Unsure of the maker, so if anyone has an idea, I'm all ears! It's a beauty thoughView attachment 475432
The blue paint looks the same as what's on a lot of vintage northern European axe heads.

Wetterlings?
 

eric4

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The blue paint looks the same as what's on a lot of vintage northern European axe heads.

Wetterlings?
I was able to find pics of a Wetterlings tasmanian, and the blue on my axe has a greener hue, but not as green as my Gransfors tasmanian. The pattern geometry also doesn't seem to match a wetterlings or gransfors

My best guess is Hults Bruk or Sater Banko if I'm going purely off paint color. The steel quality and patina definitely resemble sandvik/Swedish steel. Plus ya don't see too many 5 pounders. Most max out at 4.5
 
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