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Gonna be a new house when you get done with it Clint. Nice work so far. Can’t wait to see the finished product
I also spent three days under the house jacking and leveling, and adding more posts and piers... had to replace the sills and bottom plates, but luckily the rot doesn’t extend underneath the house.View attachment 177586 View attachment 177589 View attachment 177590
I also reframed the front window opening, because it was a mess.View attachment 177591 View attachment 177592
Do to my lack of carpentry terms, will the new roof be, I guess, typical trusses, so a peak running from one end to the other verses the center peak that it had?
Yes. It will just be a standard gable roof as opposed to a hip roof. Much simpler and looks better, in my opinion.Do to my lack of carpentry terms, will the new roof be, I guess, typical trusses, so a peak running from one end to the other verses the center peak that it had?
Definitely considered a remodel. I think my building inspector called it a “fire rehab”, so it doesn’t need everything brought up to current code like a new structure would. Here in Ca., that pretty much means no indoor fire sprinkler system or tempered glass windows. Plumbing and electrical both need to be brought up to current code, though. New construction needs to be 2x6 here as well to meet energy codes, while the existing walls will remain 2x4.Is this considered a remodel or new construction ?
I believe you could do 2x4 with 2” of rigid foam. I actually did a kitchen remodel in a house built like that... but it was built 21 yrs ago, and and building codes are always changing. My understanding is that 2x6 framing is not really for structure, just insulation. Shear is from the ply/OSB on the exterior walls and roof (I’m using T-111 plywood siding, and 1/2” OSB on the roof), blocking between the trusses and nailed to the roof/trusses/walls, hurricane straps (Simpson ties), and of course the interior walls and drywall add to it, as well. And also the number of nails used, and the spacing between them... I guess everything together makes it super strong. Overkill if you ask me.Are you able to use 2x4 with exterior insulation there to meet energy code? It’s not cheaper than 2x6 but an option.
Not sure if you can get shear wall strength from 2x4 though. Don’t have to deal much with that here.
Definitely going to be a different place. Are you going to frame up the addition this weekend before trusses hit?
Yes. It will just be a standard gable roof as opposed to a hip roof. Much simpler and looks better, in my opinion.
The kitchen/living room, and master bedroom will be vaulted, as well.
Definitely considered a remodel. I think my building inspector called it a “fire rehab”, so it doesn’t need everything brought up to current code like a new structure would. Here in Ca., that pretty much means no indoor fire sprinkler system or tempered glass windows. Plumbing and electrical both need to be brought up to current code, though. New construction needs to be 2x6 here as well to meet energy codes, while the existing walls will remain 2x4.
That is a great way to do it, if you have the manpower to lift everything. For me by myself, or with one other guy, it really doesn’t work.Frame, exterior sheathing, windows and siding and tip it up. They have quite the system and process.