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Received Asian MS440 Big Bore Triplets Today

MustangMike

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Nice thread Mike, could you say roughly what cost and time were, all up?

With the group purchase, the $ cost is low, but the time spent is high, especially on the first one when I get to discover all the problems the hard way.

If you don't enjoy it as a hobby, puzzle, or a challenge, it would never be worth it. No way an amateur like me is going to port a cylinder fast, even the pros spend a lot of time on it.

If you calculate the value of your time, it is a loosing proposition, unless you consider it a learning/educational experience. However, buying all OEM parts would be cost prohibitive.

I guess in some ways it is entertainment. Will the next one run much better if I lower the Intake Port more???

I was very pleased with how I got the 660s to run (w/Cross/MMWS P+C) w/o any port work. These kits will not be so easy. I hate to think of how pathetic it would have run if I had left the intake at 64, and that was w/o a base gasket!
 

MustangMike

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Mason, since I have about 5 broken or leaking 046/460 tank handles, I was thinking the same thing. Just wish I could see what the heck is happening when that thing gets closed up. Perhaps I need to mod where the plastic cover contacts the control lever.
 

huskyboy

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Mason, since I have about 5 broken or leaking 046/460 tank handles, I was thinking the same thing. Just wish I could see what the heck is happening when that thing gets closed up. Perhaps I need to mod where the plastic cover contacts the control lever.
Good deal mike, no brainer to try it out. Can’t hurt. By the way regarding broke tank handles I was looking at the 461 tank handle vs older 46 handle and they appear to be identical at first other than newer flippy caps...but the underside of the newer tank is much more heavily reinforced. Good improvement over old ones I guess for gorillas that like to abuse, drop and yank on them lol.
 

MustangMike

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Yep, same difference from a 044 to a 440 tank handle. And the 461 is the same configuration, they see it as 046/460/461 tank handle.

044/440 will also work with other 044/440 intake ports (the carbs inter change), but the fuel tank is smaller.
 

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AlfA01

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I had found that page before, but was finding it hard to get the correct Conrod length . Any ideas?
Cheers

I haven't played with the program yet. Not a lot of time recently--trying to tidy up my boat project before summer is over. I plan to dive into it when my two basket case saws arrive and I am ready to get in to revving them up a little.
 

Tor R

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I had found that page before, but was finding it hard to get the correct Conrod length . Any ideas?
Cheers
you have to size the conrod, you dont need to be 100% precise though.
Here is a few Husky conrods I sized up:
133: 53.5 mm
242: 56.0 mm
254: 60.0 mm
262: 65.0 mm
346: 60.0 mm
357: 60.0 mm
 

Deets066

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Mason, since I have about 5 broken or leaking 046/460 tank handles, I was thinking the same thing. Just wish I could see what the heck is happening when that thing gets closed up. Perhaps I need to mod where the plastic cover contacts the control lever.
Did you try it without the cover on?
 

MustangMike

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It is not the cover that changes things, it is that plate that goes under the filter, that the flange holds tight, that changes things.

Bet in answer to your question, yes.
 

Deets066

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It is not the cover that changes things, it is that plate that goes under the filter, that the flange holds tight, that changes things.

Bet in answer to your question, yes.
Guess I should have been more specific, I was referring to the carb box cover or filter plate. Not the air filter cover
 

MustangMike

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Yes it does, and that is what I was thinking. If I can either move the plate a bit, or if I flip it see if it stops sticking.

I'll get to it, but not today.
 

MustangMike

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Got Big Bore Cylinder #2 ready today, can't wait to see if it runs stronger.

Guess I was a little timid on dropping the intake on Cyl #1, I did not make that mistake again.

I think the #s on this cylinder are good, if it does not run well, it is beyond my abilities! The only # I changed was the intake, but like last time I did a little work to the outside of the exhaust and intake, and to extend the uppers a little more toward the back of the exhaust port.

I did check if the intake was free porting, and I guess the answer is yes and no (I said it would be close). The top of the piston does not enter the intake, but the top of the upper ring does, so it is real close.

The #s are Ex 102.5, Tr 122.5, In 81. I was shooting for 78 on the intake, but if these #s don't run well, then I don't think there is much hope.

Now, I just have to find time to put the darn thing together. Maybe will try to glue the jug down tonight so it will be ready.

The pic is not as clear as I hoped, but there are black maker lines, and just above that was ground out. I tired to be real careful not to go through the cylinder, the port is lowered quite a bit. They start out close to 64.

Oh, I forgot to check squish, but I'm sure it is close to .030 again, so I'm not worried. Will give a final check after I glue it down.
 

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T.Roller

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Got Big Bore Cylinder #2 ready today, can't wait to see if it runs stronger.

Guess I was a little timid on dropping the intake on Cyl #1, I did not make that mistake again.

I think the #s on this cylinder are good, if it does not run well, it is beyond my abilities! The only # I changed was the intake, but like last time I did a little work to the outside of the exhaust and intake, and to extend the uppers a little more toward the back of the exhaust port.

I did check if the intake was free porting, and I guess the answer is yes and no (I said it would be close). The top of the piston does not enter the intake, but the top of the upper ring does, so it is real close.

The #s are Ex 102.5, Tr 122.5, In 81. I was shooting for 78 on the intake, but if these #s don't run well, then I don't think there is much hope.

Now, I just have to find time to put the darn thing together. Maybe will try to glue the jug down tonight so it will be ready.

The pic is not as clear as I hoped, but there are black maker lines, and just above that was ground out. I tired to be real careful not to go through the cylinder, the port is lowered quite a bit. They start out close to 64.

Oh, I forgot to check squish, but I'm sure it is close to .030 again, so I'm not worried. Will give a final check after I glue it down.
Those numbers should do much better. If not I'd raise the transfers and exhaust a couple degrees.
 

MustangMike

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The squish came in tighter than I thought it would, .018, so if it is a bear to pull, I'll just stick a .010 gasket in there and the #s should be fine.

But even better if it just runs the way it is. I also think these #s are VG. I worked that intake so much it was starting to scare me, did not want to go through the cylinder, and don't have that nice little tool that Al has that lets you know how close you are!

Hope to get enough time to get it running soon, but other things keep coming up …
 

huskyboy

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The squish came in tighter than I thought it would, .018, so if it is a bear to pull, I'll just stick a .010 gasket in there and the #s should be fine.

But even better if it just runs the way it is. I also think these #s are VG. I worked that intake so much it was starting to scare me, did not want to go through the cylinder, and don't have that nice little tool that Al has that lets you know how close you are!

Hope to get enough time to get it running soon, but other things keep coming up …
I have two saws at .017 and they are fine. Are you sure its .018 on all 4 sides?
 
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MustangMike

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I hear you Mason. It is not the squish # that scares me, it is the tiny combustion chamber in conjunction with that squish #.

Hey, just going to give it a try and see what happens!
 
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