Reccomend gauge for raker height

[Terry Syd]

I've modified the Husky roller guide plates to give me different cutting angles. - You don't know you've gone too far, until you go too far.

I've also modded them so that I could use them on different brand chains. I'm still trying to get a consistent cutting angle for Carlton NK chain with my modded plate, but it seems that if I'm within about .3 degrees the chain works fine.

 

[CR888]

Hand filing well is rare. Many can make a chain sharp & cut, many think they are good at filing. Very few can keep a chain in spec throughout its whole life with nothing more than 2 files & their eye. I went from filing everyday 5/6 years ago to almost completely giving it away with 3 grinders set up. Muscle memory fades, skill & precision goes. The last chain I did by hand I embarrassed myself. To get good & stay good you need to do it at least several times each week. Well for me anyway.

 

[Philbert]

I've modified the Husky roller guide plates to give me different cutting angles. - You don't know you've gone too far, until you go too far.

Pics?

Thanks

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I have previously suggested that free-hand filing chains is a lot like sex: a lot of guys probably think that they are better than they actually are. At the same time, enough must be good enough that the world remains populated. And I have to assume that there are some Casanovas out there as well. I respect that there are different ways to get the job done.

A lot of the chains I get to sharpen are from guys who are not able to free-hand sharpen adequately over the complete life of the chain loop. I get left and right cutters grossly mismatched in length and angles. I get cutters that have hit rocks and debris, not necessarily out of neglect, but because we do a lot of storm / disaster clean up, which is harder on chains than cutting clean timber. For me, a chain grinder is the most efficient way to 'even out' those chains, and make them practically useful again, but not necessarily the best choice for touching up an edge during the middle of the day.

You have to be consistent! that means every tooth gets the same number of rubs if the 1st cutter gets say 4 rubs all the cutters get 4 rubs! both sides no if or buts about it.

Agree on the consistency part: that is what filing and depth gauge guides are all about. They help to fix one or more of the parameters, allowing the user to focus on the remaining angles, contours, etc., and get more consistent cutters than by 'eyeballing'.

The problem with teaching people to count file strokes ('rubs') is that I see people apply different amounts of pressure with their Right and Left hands, and counting each as a 'stroke'. Or one stroke is counted with the file full of filings, and another right after it is cleaned. The cutters quickly become inconsistent. If each tooth gets 3 strokes, but one needs 4, it should get what it needs.

Again, I recognize that a skilled free-hand filer would produce more consistent file strokes.

Do you sharpen one or two handed? (hold the file) I sharpen one handed frees up the other hand to hold and steady the cutter its way more accurate and controlled filing IMHO im talking doing this on the saw sharping I've never taken a chain off to sharpen in my life a new chain goes on and only comes off when its done sharpened out.

I like the guide bar held solid in some type of vise, or groove cut in a log, so that I can control the file with both hands. Filing one handed seems a lot like shooting pool with one hand on the cue stick; just no way to keep it moving as straight. If the chain is off the saw, then I like a nice filing vise to hold the chain solid.

I take my bar off every day to clean it and clean behind it, so swapping chains is no bother for me. Takes seconds:

Just different ways of doing things.

 

[Junk Meister]

Do you sharpen one or two handed? (hold the file) I sharpen one handed frees up the other hand to hold and steady the cutter its way more accurate and controlled filing IMHO im talking doing this on the saw sharping I've never taken a chain off to sharpen in my life a new chain goes on and only comes off when its done sharpened out. I then always dress the bar putting a new chain on.
Free hand filing is not for everyone you would have to be fully committed to learn it now days but why with all the new tech chain sharping stuff out now days there is no need really only down side is it's slower time consuming.
I'm old school I'm glad I can free hand sharpen it would drive me nuts to be swaping out chains throughout the day and grinding them at night better things to do than that lol
My old man still free hand sharpens at 70 an easy 5 times a day doing his nasty hard firewood he cuts for a week then splits for a week only saw's he has is 2 ms661 and a ms880 yeah hes a tuff old bugger even in this heat we have had he's still out doing his firewood lol
View attachment 217513 View attachment 217514

I like what I can see of the log splitter Any possibility of closer more detailed pictures?? Looks like he moves it around with the Forklift.
I am contemplating making a Guillotine style splitter for a skidsteer.

 

[Terry Syd]

Pics?

No picss, but easy to explain. The roller guide plates drop down over the raker and rest on two spots, the tip of the cutter and the sideplates. If you want to increase the cutting angle, then file a bit off the plate where it rests on the sideplates. This will cause the plate to fit lower on the raker. With the raker sitting higher out of the plate, you file it off and the raker is now lower (increase in cutting angle).

 

[Leerod83]

I free hand the tooth and use the husky roller guide for the rakers/depth gauges. No matter what length the tooth is, it will take the same bite as the next and therefore cut straight. No need to make sure all the cutters are equal. So if a couple get rocked you don't have to file all the cutters half off. It pains me at how many people worry about every cutter being exactly the same length. To each their own and this is my way so no offense.

 

[Philbert]

No picss, but easy to explain.

Makes sense.

I had to 'square out' the 'T'-shaped hole for the depth gauge on one roller guide to let it work with low kickback bumpers on some chains.

Philbert

 

[Leerod83]

That's right you don't have to worry about keeping cutters the same length using the correct raker guide.

I should have specified, but you are absolutely correct...... Only with the correct raker gauge.

 

[Terry Syd]

I like this Terry has worked it out he's not stuck with just the factory soft or hardwood setting he's tuning the rakers for the timber he is cutting.

I took one raker plate out to a 6.4 degree cutting angle. The saw could pull it, but it was too big of a bite and it grabbed the smaller branches. That told me I should go up a pin on the drive sprocket and drop the cutting angle back down. That made the chain cut just as fast, but a lot smoother.

I also like the steep angle on the top of raker that the plate gives the raker. It allows the raker the ability to somewhat 'self adjust' for the softness of the wood. A sharper point (or thinner raker) will sink into soft wood easier and thus increase the cutting angle, on the regular Ozzie hardwood I cut, it just skips across the surface. Cutting up a green Custard Apple tree was instructive. The wood was very soft and the chips that were coming out were THICK, so thick the saw was actually slowing down from the load and I had to be careful.

 

[Philbert]

. . . good results can be achieved if someone is willing to put in the time to master it.

Knowledge, skill, and experience are all needed.

Philbert

 

[MarcS]

Best cutting chains I’ve ever used were “hand filed” with the Stihl bench filing jig. Still takes great attention because all those jigs are too light duty and loose. Used a caliper once to even up the cutters and a depth mic straddling two cutters to dial in the depth gauges. That chain cut so smooth and fed so well it was the most sublime ten minutes I’ve ever spent running a saw...right until I hit some iron growing in a trunk.

 

[Wilhelm]

Honestly, I just fast forwarded through this thread.

In case no one mentioned it, the Archer Fast Filer jig works quite good for me and it is very simple to use.
I have converted most of my 3/8" work chains to the Fast Filer jig.
Yes, it will do rakers too.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Some guys just need to spend more time with the chain, some with the poodytang. Practice makes perfect. Anyone can measure tooth lengths but it's not critical like your stroke. The stroke is everything! I'd rather spend less time on saw chain, myself. Leaves more time for critical thinking and practice

Even teeth, uneven teeth, big teef, lil teef, long drags, short drags....no body really cares.
Just keep filing

 

[CR888]

Do you sharpen one or two handed?

I set up the saw bar attached to the saw in a decent sized vice and used a wooden wedge to jam between the bar & chain on the underside to really tighten the chain so the cutters were rigidly held in place. I would hold the file with two hands. Right hand on the handle which I would turn as I made each strokes (this helps spread the work out over the file better rather than wearing straight sides of the file). Left hand would hold the tip of file and help push it into the cutter & guide it through each stroke. I could move fast, each stroke would only take about a second. Guys often report how a quickly they use up a file, I was always surprised at this. A quality file would last me quite a few chain sharpening. A raker file would last me many weeks. I only ever snapped a few files like maybe five. Always bought files by the dozen. Would hand file for 15mins to an hour or so 5days a week. Always after work preparing chains for the next day in a controlled shed with good light setup etc. I have probably 150ish chains in use that are ALL sharp and ready to go, some get used more than others etc. All my chain is either new on the roll or packaged in single, or is used and sharpened. When I choose my saws for the day, I have a rough estimate how many of each chain I'll need and just pack all my spare chains in my little tool tote. I don't even take any files with me. When they get dull they get changed. This is not a perfect system either, there are some advantages to keeping the same chain on the bar as when you swap out chains on a filthy saw dust infested saw, you often get chips in rails, oiler holes etc. When I'm working often your hot and bothered & for me I don't want to hand file during work. Both ways have their pro's/con's. I never got good at filing sitting down on the ground or whatever without that 'controlled environment'. But some guys can, they can sit a saw with 32"b/c between their legs and sharpen it 'well' in short order....that was never me...

 

[Lightning Performance]

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I find 3/8 chain needs about double the depth on the drag 0.020 begining vs 0.040 end, as the chain finishes the tooth. That would be an aggressive chain for green soft wood at the end of life. Not well suited for dry hardwood...too grabby in chisel. Chipper cutters it would be fine. Semi chisel ymmv or ykmv on each continent ;-)

 

[SpaceBus]

So the best thing really is the Husqvarna roller guide? The husky guide just doesn't work for me, but maybe I was using it wrong. My rakers are more consistent with the Oregon raker guide with the forked end. A search on the forum led me here, but I was hoping for something better than what I have now.

 

[Philbert]

Use what works for you. For some guys, that is the standard guide, followed by an ‘extra’ swipe or 2 if the chain is not biting enough.

Remember to round over your depth gauges after adjusting the height.

Philbert

 

[SpaceBus]

Use what works for you. For some guys, that is the standard guide, followed by an ‘extra’ swipe or 2 if the chain is not biting enough.

Remember to round over your depth gauges after adjusting the height.

Philbert

I've been hoping for something more precise since I'm operating a chainsaw mill and equal rakers matters. Perhaps I'll get an extra Granberg setup that is just for filing rakers.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

I’ve been using the Stihl progressive guides, and they’ve been very consistent for me. They’re cheap too.