Reccomend gauge for raker height

[chipper1]

I bought the same Husqvarna raker gauges as Sawyer94 for .375", .325" and have no idea how to use them correctly. I'm glad that I found and joined this site - lots of good information.

Did you ever figure them out.

 

[Moparmyway]

Digital angle gauge
Set to 5 or 6 degrees

 

[chipper1]

Digital angle gauge
Set to 5 or 6 degrees
View attachment 196569

Do you measure every tooth, or do a couple to figure out where you need to be then check a few as you go.

 

[Moparmyway]

The first time, I check every single one and get them all real close

After the next two sharpenings, I'll check every other one

 

[chipper1]

The first time, I check every single one and get them all real close

After the next two sharpenings, I'll check every other one

That makes sense doing to the first time, I do the same thing. Wouldn't that mean your checking all the rakers on one side .
What angle do you use on square. Typically need less on my square chains, I keep the sideplate at about 1-2 degrees and they cut very smooth.
Have you noticed any correlation to the hook on square or round.

 

[Moparmyway]

The 5-6 degrees is for raker height, I check them all, one after the other, I don’t do all of the lefts then all of the rights, or visa-versa.

I’m usually around 1-2 degrees forward lean.

I run a taller raker on my square chains than I do on my round full chisel

 

[chipper1]

The 5-6 degrees is for raker height

Right lol.

I don’t do all of the lefts then all of the rights, or visa-versa.

It was a joke.

I run a taller raker on my square chains than I do on my round full chisel

Me too. I was just wondering the angle they come out to be, don't have a DAF so I was curious.

 

[Moparmyway]

Me too. I was just wondering the angle they come out to be, don't have a DAF so I was curious.

That all depends on how aggressive I set the angles ...............
The more agressive the tooth, the less angle on the raker

 

[chipper1]

That all depends on how aggressive I set the angles ...............
The more agressive the tooth, the less angle on the raker

Thanks.
It can change a lot based on how hungry the chain is and the saw your running.
I need to get an angle finder to see where the best initial setting is, it can vary from 25-35 for a good starting point depending on the tooth length. It's a good amount of time testing and then running them to try them.

 

[deye223]

I have been using these for about 30 years they work on any chain and cost about 10c
The simple things in life are often the best ......

 

[Lightning Performance]

I have been using these for about 30 years they work on any chain and cost about 10c
The simple things in life are often the best ......

View attachment 196730

Elaborate more, please. Just don't see it

 

[chipper1]

I have been using these for about 30 years they work on any chain and cost about 10c
The simple things in life are often the best ......

View attachment 196730

I agree, but you run stihls so...

Elaborate more, please. Just don't see it

Me either, but I want too .

 

[deye223]

Elaborate more, please. Just don't see it

Simple you just use them as a strait edge and lay it across two cutters and look at the gap .it is easy as after you learn what you are looking at ...... only takes around 5 or 6 minutes to do a 24" chain

I agree, but you run stihls so...

Me either, but I want too .

I used to run a 262xp and a 390xp ...... that's why I run stihls now ......

 

[chipper1]

Simple you just use them as a strait edge and lay it across two cutters and look at the gap .it is easy as after you learn what you are looking at ...... only takes around 5 or 6 minutes to do a 24" chain

View attachment 196839



I used to run a 262xp and a 390xp ...... that's why I run stihls now ......

Thanks.
That's simple for sure, and I think great for touch ups, but when truing things up it doesn't seem like the best idea. I can eyeball them pretty good myself, but I like the husky progressive gauge, protects the tooth and gives the raker a nice profile that's easy to contour if desired.

 

[mettee]

That would be good as a go no go gauge, with a pivot point in the middle you could quickly feel for "rock" without looking.

 

[deye223]

That would be good as a go no go gauge, with a pivot point in the middle you could quickly feel for "rock" without looking.

That would be no good as the farther back the cutter gets the lower the raker has to be no fixed gauge works .
Maybe this pic will help you should try and keep the angle between cutter to raker to about 6 odd degrees to get propped cutting performance aand there is nothing wrong with the raker profile when you learn how to use a file .




Look how low this raker is and cutting performance is better than out of the box .

 

[mettee]

So you have been using this for 30 years? It shows you the space below between the cutter and the raker? And you use that in order to decide how much your going to file the raker? From the tip of the raker to the tip of the tooth there is X height when you are at the correct raker depth? I saw someone mention .025" is that correct? When you are at the correct depth, you have probably achieved 6 degrees?

 

[Philbert]

Somehow I missed this thread. Started a similar one on A.S. a few years back, with a lot of options:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/

And this one, here on OPE, on the STIHL Progressive Depth Gauge Tools:
http://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-progressive-depth-gauge-tools.18288/

Philbert

 

[Farmchuck]

Somehow I missed this thread. Started a similar one on A.S. a few years back, with a lot of options:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/

And this one, here on OPE, on the STIHL Progressive Depth Gauge Tools:
http://opeforum.com/threads/stihl-progressive-depth-gauge-tools.18288/

Philbert

Can you enlighten us any on what you like for a depth gauge tool? You seem to be pretty knowledgeable in the sharpening dept.

 

[Philbert]

Can you enlighten us any on what you like for a depth gauge tool?

I am pretty open - I think that once you understand what you are trying to achieve, you can use lots of tools to get there. Sharp files help!

The common, simple, fixed offset (e.g. 0.025") gauges work pretty well for basic cutting, and for general users, especially for the first half of a cutter's life. I typically used these even with a Granberg / clamp on file guide, because they are faster than swapping out the file and re-setting the adjustments. If someone has a keen sense / awareness of performance, and wants to optimize a chain for specific woods, saw power, cutting conditions, etc., they might choose another method (or a different offset).

The progressive depth gauge tools (e.g. File-O-Plate, Husqvana, and STIHL) appeal to some guys, especially with chains at the second half of their life. It's nice that these are available more now (a little trouble getting the STIHL ones in the US), and not only linked to the roller file guides. It is nice that they offer both 'Hard' and 'Soft' settings. But they do not guarantee optimized depth gauges - you might still want to take 'a little more or less' off, based upon application, experience, and taste.

Since I sharpen most chains on a grinder, I have learned to use the gauges just to set the grinder, versus with a file. I am picky about rounding over the depth gauges afterwards to avoid leaving a flat spot or sharp point that could dig in.

I get the DAF (digital angle finder) / constant angle idea, but it seems like a lot of work, unless it is for a very special chain. Sharpening with a grinder results in uniform cutter lengths, so you may only need to set the reference depth gauge that way. But too much work for me, if adjusting each cutter independently, compared to the progressive tools.

I have used the 2-In-1 file guides when that was what was available, but I always feel that they are 'dumbed down' guides (no offense intended to the many people who like them). They take away my ability to adjust / tweak the depth gauge, and they don't work on all chains (e.g. skip-tooth).

Bottom line is that everyone has to find something that works for them. Good to have lots of choices!

Philbert