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Real talk about saw porting theory (no arguments)

Keith Gandy

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from what ive read about porting it takes awhile to perfect it , thats why people send there saws to some one like Randy , to get it done correctly , now if people start doing video,s and numbers of how the ported a saw , it could take money away from guys that make a living out of it
you can ask question about porting and get some ideas and if you have a go , only if its a little bit , and post pics , im sure you will get the advise you need to make it right , theres a lot on youtube also
im only learning myself and find the guys very helpful if i wont to have a crack at it
Peter
I agree. Cant go wrong with Randy, Mdavlee, Treemonkey, Brad, Al, etc.
 
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drf256

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Now we are up to transfers.

On the lowers, some remove the plating lip and some don't. Anything you remove increases case volume and decreases case compression, so keep this in mind.

On the tunnels, don't remove the bulges that look like restrictions in the tunnels. They aren't there by mistake. Modifying those for a positive effect is beyond my ability and the scope of this thread. You can smooth them out though.

I like to keep the entire tract small and tight. On the best 044/6 I've ever ran, @Deets066 actually made them smaller with epoxy. Yes that's right, smaller.

Bigger ain't necessarily better in porting. In fact, it's usually worse.
 

drf256

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Use a ring to find your upper height and then raise them. A 90* tool is the best here, but many get by with a dremel and stacked cutoff wheels.

Try to keep them small and tight. Keep the inside leading up to the opening smoothly transferring into it.
 

drf256

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The last step I do is chamfer. I start with a 1/2" diamonds ball on all the ports I've touched.

Then I use a 4mm small smooth diamond ball to hit the edge of the plating where it hits the bevel made by the larger ball.

Then I use a fine brake hone and wd40 and hone the entire cylinder.

Then I wipe it clean and hit it with a scotchbrite ball.

Last step is hand sanding every port opening.

Then it goes into the USC, then hand washed, dried and oiled lightly.
 

drf256

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So after all of this talk, does anyone think it's not a bargain to pay someone to do this?

It costs around $25-50 in consumables to port a jug.

Around $4k invested in tooling and machines.

Then porter will remove your piston, sometimes modify it as well, add rings and reinstall.

Then modify and weld your muffler. Clean it up, sometimes match the opening to the exhaust port. Match the exhaust gasket and heat shield to the port. Then paint it.

Then pull flywheel, advance timing by filing the key.

Then modify the carb sometimes and sometimes the air filter and the air filter cover.

Then ship the saw back for $20-50.

So does anyone think that paying $300 to have it done isn't cost effective?

Lol...
 

drf256

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Hope my posts weren't annoying and too lengthy. I felt it what was what some guys wanted to hear.

Sending your saws to one of the pro's here is worth the money.

Don't send them to me. I only port at my own pace and for friends I've made. It's a hobby for me, I don't want the work.

I don't mean to be disrespectful with what I said above. I just wanna make it clear that I don't want to take any work away from the big guys here who have always helped me out. Their work is above and beyond anything I can produce.

I hope this was informative.
 

Keith Gandy

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So here's where an extra piston helps to square the ring in the bore. Keep in mind where your pins are. Like I said before, on the MS 360 the bottom pin falls onto the left side of the intake roof as you look towards the chamber. I keep this side a bit rounder. Most intake flow occurs on the floor anyway.

Draw a line on the intake skirt at the degree you want. On the 360 I want 78*. So turn the wheel to 78 and mark the skirt.

Measure your difference between the line and skirt.

Mark that difference from the center of your intake floor towards the base. It's best to make that amount smaller and sneak up on the degree you want. You can always take more out, but you can't put it back in.

Put a ring in and draw your lines for your roof and floor. Write which side the bottom pin is on in the bore. Be careful there.

Grind your port. Take the center of the bottom first. Double check the degree you're at. When you've got it right, finish the port.

Smooth the port towards the opening. Be careful not to grind through the area where the neck meets the jug or any threaded intake holes, like the husky 262. The Stihl 046 has a notoriously thin flywheel side neck. I mark it with sharpie first so I rember not to touch it while blending.

Here's a stock 044 10mm, then a roughed in port, then a finished chamfered one.

View attachment 61135 View attachment 61136 View attachment 61137
Great advice! Thanks Al!!
 

Keith Gandy

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So after all of this talk, does anyone think it's not a bargain to pay someone to do this?

It costs around $25-50 in consumables to port a jug.

Around $4k invested in tooling and machines.

Then porter will remove your piston, sometimes modify it as well, add rings and reinstall.

Then modify and weld your muffler. Clean it up, sometimes match the opening to the exhaust port. Match the exhaust gasket and heat shield to the port. Then paint it.

Then pull flywheel, advance timing by filing the key.

Then modify the carb sometimes and sometimes the air filter and the air filter cover.

Then ship the saw back for $20-50.

So does anyone think that paying $300 to have it done isn't cost effective?

Lol...
Yep! Add in your time/ labor Al
 

Moparmyway

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Sending your saws to one of the pro's here is worth the money.

Don't send them to me. I only port at my own pace and for friends I've made. It's a hobby for me, I don't want the work.

I don't mean to be disrespectful with what I said above. I just wanna make it clear that I don't want to take any work away from the big guys here who have always helped me out. Their work is above and beyond anything I can produce.

Very well said Doc, I'm in the exact same boat as you .....................
When do you want to try my 661 ?
 

drf256

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I could t start it at the GTG before I had tendonitis Kev.

I'm down one forearm right now. After 25 years of marriage that means that half of my love life is now gone.

Worse than that, I can't start a saw right now.
 

Mastermind

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Their work is above and beyond anything I can produce.

It's great that you are humble my friend. But your work is as good as any I've seen.

Thanks for taking the time to do this excellent write up.

Big rep for you sir.
 

jmssaws

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I could t start it at the GTG before I had tendonitis Kev.

I'm down one forearm right now. After 25 years of marriage that means that half of my love life is now gone.

Worse than that, I can't start a saw right now.
Send me the hybrid and I'll fix you up a decomp
 

mcginkleschmidt

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cease232 posted a pdf document, 2stroketunershandbook.pdf, in an earlier post (Thanks). If anyone wants to read the document without printing it out or cocking your head at a 90 degree angle, the same document has been attached below but has been rotated to the left 90 degrees allowing it to be viewed more easily on screen.
 

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Moparmyway

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I could t start it at the GTG before I had tendonitis Kev.

I'm down one forearm right now. After 25 years of marriage that means that half of my love life is now gone.

Worse than that, I can't start a saw right now.
I'll be happy to hand it to you running Doc, plus I've actually lowered compression with the new setup.

I'm looking forward to the warmer weather, I've had enough of this cold stuff
 
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