Random pics (that you took) thread...

[ChipsFlyin]

Same here.....I didn't bother to watch it.

After the Steelers ran *s-wordty I started doing other stuff. Didn't even know which teams were playing! LOL

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Just finished this 261 conversion. Meteor/ caber. All stock except for a muff mod. I'm curious how it will run as is. Timing advance later then maybe sent off. Who knows I might like it with no changes.

 

[Steve]

Just finished this 261 conversion. Meteor/ caber. All stock except for a muff mod. I'm curious how it will run as is. Timing advance later then maybe sent off. Who knows I might like it with no changes.View attachment 222169 View attachment 222170 View attachment 222171 View attachment 222172

Nice! Thats a clean saw! I like the period case too!

 

[00wyk]

Just finished this 261 conversion. Meteor/ caber. All stock except for a muff mod. I'm curious how it will run as is. Timing advance later then maybe sent off. Who knows I might like it with no changes.View attachment 222169 View attachment 222170 View attachment 222171 View attachment 222172

Nice saw! I had a modded 261 for a while myself.

As for timing advance - the bad thing is it is a pain to do and time on a chainsaw. It's not like a Chevy V8 where you can just bend over the radiator and reach out and twist the distributor. But it is easier than doing it on most motorcycles, so there's that(I had to swap in a custom timed cog in to my ZX-7). You don't even need to find TDC to advance the timing, you just have to index the flywheel off of itself and the chassis for advance. A protractor can tell you the advance in this case, let alone a degree wheel. When I was young, we timed V8's by feel. You would start at around 30-32* on sumfin like a small block Ford depending on the compression, and add 2* at a time to see how she ran. We had no dyno locally. The dyno was replaced by listening for detonation and the feel of the pants So it would take all day or a few days to dial it in, and sometimes on the high strung small blocks a single degree would make a difference. And often we would have to redo it after the engine settled or when the weather changed. Timing would be the last thing we would set on a V8 before we tested it. But it was one of the most important things. Nowadays, the engine can sense how the burn in the combustion chamber is by sniffing the exhaust and checking the resistance from the plug.

On a chainsaw, you just nip the woodruff key, or remove it altogether. The key is more for indexing than anything. It will shear nearly every time there isn't correct torque on the flywheel nut, so it doesn't hold the timing in place - the torque does. Just take a couple degrees off at a time. A chainsaw has a hemispherical combustion chamber with only the plug protruding in to it. This is as efficient as they come short of a diesel. Some saws can take a surprising amount of compression and advance over stock; timing and compression that would cause detonation at idle in a V8. Mitch Weba took the timing from an ms461 at 8* at start and 16* total, with a 360 coil sticking at 12*. That's not a lot. When my 044 blew 128psi after it was damaged, it would take 12* of timing advance and run stronger than a stock 044. It will probably over heat in summer in a hot place, but here I can run something like that all year if I wanted to. My 241 at 190psi took much less before it started to complain. The trick about timing is the balance between power and usability. With timing, it is easy to damage an engine if you do not know the symptoms of too much(odd vibration, not spooling to full RPM, lean/white odd smelling exhaust, acting like it has a limiter when it doesn't, or the limiter feeling like it kicks in too soon, very hard starting, lack of power, odd exhaust note). If the engine is only detonating part of the time at full throttle, it can damage your engine without ever being noticed until it explodes since a saw in wood is making all manner of noises and vibrations. I think you'd still notice the odd exhaust smell or look, tho, if you were keen.

Different engines will behave differently at different RPM - even from the same manufacturer or model. So you adjust timing to each engine individually.

Having said all that, most saw engines can take a bit of timing, especially if you work in cooler climes and 95 base octane(92RON) like we have here in much of Europe. Even just 2-4* might make a difference - especially in spool-up. I think timing is worth it for how much more responsive the engine is alone on smaller saws that do a lot of small cuts in succession. At the end of the day, it's the entire package that matters, but timing plays an important role.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Nice saw! I had a modded 261 for a while myself.

As for timing advance - the bad thing is it is a pain to do and time on a chainsaw. It's not like a Chevy V8 where you can just bend over the radiator and reach out and twist the distributor. But it is easier than doing it on most motorcycles, so there's that(I had to swap in a custom timed cog in to my ZX-7). You don't even need to find TDC to advance the timing, you just have to index the flywheel off of itself and the chassis for advance. A protractor can tell you the advance in this case, let alone a degree wheel. When I was young, we timed V8's by feel. You would start at around 30-32* on sumfin like a small black Ford depending on the compression, and add 2* at a time to see how she ran. We had no dyno locally. The dyno was replaced by listening for detonation and the feel of the pants So it would take all day or a few days to dial it in, and sometimes on the high strung small blocks a single degree would make a difference. And often we would have to redo it after the engine settled or when the weather changed. Timing would be the last thing we would set on a V8 before we tested it. But it was one of the most important things. Nowadays, the engine can sense how the burn in the combustion chamber is by sniffing the exhaust and checking the resistance from the plug.

On a chainsaw, you just nip the woodruff key, or remove it altogether. The key is more for indexing than anything. It will shear nearly every time there isn't correct torque on the flywheel nut, so it doesn't hold the timing in place - the torque does. Just take a couple degrees off at a time. A chainsaw has a hemispherical combustion chamber with only the plug protruding in to it. This is as efficient as they come short of a diesel. Some saws can take a surprising amount of compression and advance over stock; timing and compression that would cause detonation at idle in a V8. Mitch Weba took the timing from an ms461 at 8* at start and 16* total, with a 360 coil sticking at 12*. That's not a lot. When my 044 blew 128psi after it was damaged, it would take 12* of timing advance and run stronger than a stock 044. It will probably over heat in summer in a hot place, but here I can run something like that all year if I wanted to. My 241 at 190psi took much less before it started to complain. The trick about timing is the balance between power and usability. With timing, it is easy to damage an engine if you do not know the symptoms of too much(odd vibration, not spooling to full RPM, lean/white odd smelling exhaust, acting like it has a limiter when it doesn't, or the limiter feeling like it kicks in too soon, very hard starting, lack of power, odd exhaust note). If the engine is only detonating part of the time at full throttle, it can damage your engine without ever being noticed until it explodes since a saw in wood is making all manner of noises and vibrations. I think you'd still notice the odd exhaust smell or look, tho, if you were keen.

Different engines will behave differently at different RPM - even from the same manufacturer or model. So you adjust timing to each engine individually.

Having said all that, most saw engines can take a bit of timing, especially if you work in cooler climes and 95 base octane(92RON) like we have here in much of Europe. Even just 2-4* might make a difference - especially in spool-up. I think timing is worth it for how much more responsive the engine is alone on smaller saws that do a lot of small cuts in succession. At the end of the day, it's the entire package that matters, but timing plays an important role.

Cool! That must be a Poulan 041 bar on the Husky. I think the Poulans were the only saws that ran the weird 22" 76 dl 3/8 setup.

Thanks for the info!

I came across this formula quite some time ago. It can be used to take material off the rt side of the key so i can rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. (Crank Diameter)/2 * sin(Advance Angle)

If crank diameter is 15mm 7.5 sin 5 deg = .65 mm or 25.6 thou. 25 close enough - tad under 5 degrees.

I don't do that stuff . 1/3 of the key off is close enough for me. If it runs like crap and pops I'll back it off.

From memory reading stuff I think the key is cast on the flywheel for a 261. I'll get creative with a needle file.

 

[chipper1]

Yes, that was a small child in his mouth.

I thought it was the skunk lol.
Thats pretty cool he didn't get sprayed .

 

[00wyk]

Cool! That must be a Poulan 041 bar on the Husky. I think the Poulans were the only saws that ran the weird 22" 76 dl 3/8 setup.

Thanks for the info!

I came across this formula quite some time ago. It can be used to take material off the rt side of the key so i can rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. (Crank Diameter)/2 * sin(Advance Angle)

If crank diameter is 15mm 7.5 sin 5 deg = .65 mm or 25.6 thou. 25 close enough - tad under 5 degrees.

I don't do that stuff . 1/3 of the key off is close enough for me. If it runs like crap and pops I'll back it off.

From memory reading stuff I think the key is cast on the flywheel for a 261. I'll get creative with a needle file.

I found the bar on sale and decided to use it. I don't suggest it on a high strung saw, the tip is very narrow and really doesn't work well for high velocity 3/8 chain.

 

[00wyk]

Cool! That must be a Poulan 041 bar on the Husky. I think the Poulans were the only saws that ran the weird 22" 76 dl 3/8 setup.

Thanks for the info!

I came across this formula quite some time ago. It can be used to take material off the rt side of the key so i can rotate the flywheel counterclockwise. (Crank Diameter)/2 * sin(Advance Angle)

If crank diameter is 15mm 7.5 sin 5 deg = .65 mm or 25.6 thou. 25 close enough - tad under 5 degrees.

I don't do that stuff . 1/3 of the key off is close enough for me. If it runs like crap and pops I'll back it off.

From memory reading stuff I think the key is cast on the flywheel for a 261. I'll get creative with a needle file.

Does your inside spike not quite match your outer? It didn't on mine. I took steps to resolve that issue.

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Does your inside spike not quite match your outer? It didn't on mine. I took steps to resolve that issue.

Yup. The outside one sits a bit farther forward. There might be enough room to grind the holes forward so the dawg slides back to match up. As long as there is not up and down movement I think it would be OK. I have to check later.

 

[DuratecMan10]

Had to go get some fenders and quarter panels from a body shop out in Winter Haven and stopped by this airport/hangar. Really cool stuff!

 

[Steve]

View attachment 222317 View attachment 222318 View attachment 222319 View attachment 222320 View attachment 222321 Had to go get some fenders and quarter panels from a body shop out in Winter Haven and stopped by this airport/hangar. Really cool stuff!

That stearman is awesome!!!

 

[redline4]

 

[Steve]

View attachment 222398 View attachment 222399 View attachment 222400 View attachment 222401 View attachment 222402

Why do they even put a head on a 2.4?

Good evening

6 mo. Backorder

Nice slit!

 

[redline4]

Why do they even put a head on a 2.4?

Good evening

6 mo. Backorder

Nice slit!

That was actually this morning!

 

[Steve]

That was actually this morning!

Hard to tell east from your picture!

 

[Steve]

View attachment 222398 View attachment 222399 View attachment 222400 View attachment 222401 View attachment 222402

Forgot to acknowledge your first pic. I raise you some GDI carbon build up!

 

[00wyk]

View attachment 222317 View attachment 222318 View attachment 222319 View attachment 222320 View attachment 222321 Had to go get some fenders and quarter panels from a body shop out in Winter Haven and stopped by this airport/hangar. Really cool stuff!

I knew a guy named speedy gonzales who built one of my bench rest rifles and competed with me. He lived and worked out of his airplane hangar in Denton, tx. It was a super cool loft set up with an office down stairs. I nearly bought one of the empty hangars to do something similar with. Man, that would have changed my life. One of my few regrets. No neighbours to deal with most the time , and cheap utilities. I'll see if I can find a pic

 

[00wyk]

Ah man, I can't find any pics of his hangar. I got a lot of pics of his rifles and such. I might have been trying to be respectable of his privacy, I guess.

However, I did come across the last scorecard I had when I was benchrest shooting up in Denton, TX. SPeedy isn't on the card, he was just testing stuff that day. I am in second place after the first round in 'varmint' class - 6mm or less sized bullets. HTR/hunter class is a lighter weight class(rifle sized wise) that can use up to 7.62mm bullets(which themselves are heavier than varmint class). Doesn't sound like much, but HTR class bullets are up to 3X the weight of varmint, and have a huge ballistic advantage, so they keep those two classes distinct. There are some legendary names on this scorecard in BR shooting, too:

Here's the rig I was using that day - one of my actual varmint hunting rigs. Speedy was still building my target rig.

Some folks are more serious than others. Some are testing. I just shot what I brung. Here's Speedy's bench:

Here's a pic of my competition rifle. It cost more than most of the cars I have owned:

My long range competition and hunting rig:

My handgun competition rig - I used to live around the corner from STI. I qualified for a handgun carry permit with this rig, terrifying most the other shooters since I made one tiny hole with all 50 rounds we had to use:

How I usually competed:

And what I used when I didn't feel like having a competition:

That's an H&K 53 5.56mm, fully automatic. It had a 9 inch barrel and spewed flames all over the damn place in full auto. Very expensive gun to buy and feed.

I wish I could have all the cash I spent on guns back. I could buy a house here. But that was a different life. I miss it sometimes. But I love it here.
An injury and some personal problems put an end to all that spending and lifestyle. Now I am a super poor common person scratching out worms from the Irish soil when I can. And I have never been more at ease with life.

 

[Steve]

Ah man, I can't find any pics of his hangar. I got a lot of pics of his rifles and such. I might have been trying to be respectable of his privacy, I guess.

However, I did come across the last scorecard I had when I was benchrest shooting up in Denton, TX. SPeedy isn't on the card, he was just testing stuff that day. I am in second place after the first round in 'varmint' class - 6mm or less sized bullets. HTR/hunter class is a lighter weight class that can use up to 7.62mm bullets. Doesn't sound like much, but HTR class bullets are up to 3X the weight of varmint, and have a huge ballistic advantage, so they keep those two classes distinct. There are some legendary names on this scorecard in BR shooting, too:

Here's the rig I was using that day - one of my actual varmint hunting rigs. Speedy was still building my target rig.

Some folks are more serious than others. Some are testing. I just shot what I brung. Here's Speedy's bench:

Here's a pic of my competition rifle. It cost more than most of the cars I have owned:

My long range competition and hunting rig:

My handgun competition rig - I used to live around the corner from STI. I qualified for a handgun carry permit with this rig, terrifying most the other shooters since I made one tiny hole with all 50 rounds we had to use:

How I usually competed:

And what I used when I didn't feel like having a competition:

That's an H&K 51 5.56mm, fully automatic. It had a 9 inch barrel and spewed flames all over the damn place in full auto. Very expensive gun to buy and feed.

I wish I could have all the cash I spent on guns back. I could buy a house here. But that was a different life. I miss it sometimes. But I love it here.
An injury and some personal problems put an end to all that spending and lifestyle. Now I am a super poor common person scratching out worms from the Irish soil when I can. And I have never been more at ease with life.

i really like your competition rifle!!!


I have learned early that money is nice but not everything! I too bought alot of nice things in my early 20's. No kids, nice house, two new cars and such. Now 2 awesome kids, my daily is a multi-color 88 f150. My wive drives a very clean 01 camry with 200k on it. Live in a 24 year old double wide that needs lots of love! But on 20 acres!! One whole side of the property is the river. Kids run all around free range!!

I could not be any happier.

 

[kingOFgEEEks]

i really like your competition rifle!!!


I have learned early that money is nice but not everything! I too bought alot of nice things in my early 20's. No kids, nice house, two new cars and such. Now 2 awesome kids, my daily is a multi-color 88 f150. My wive drives a very clean 01 camry with 200k on it. Live in a 24 year old double wide that needs lots of love! But on 20 acres!! One whole side of the property is the river. Kids run all around free range!!

I could not be any happier.

This. 100%. I'll gladly drive beater cars and work a job that pays less than one in the 'big city', if it means Mrs. Geek doesn't have to work, and we get to stay on these 200 acres, where the kids can free range and I can shoot deer off the back deck.