Raker shape

[STOVE]

Looking at different chains and one thing I have never learned much about is the raker profile.

These two Dukes models have very different profiles.


What affect does the shape have on cutting?

 

[EFSM]

Some of the difference is for kickback control. For instance, Oregon’s LGX chain has no bumper drive link, the LPX does. It is also for vibration control. Pic of .325 LGX

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Looking at different chains and one thing I have never learned much about is the raker profile.

These two Dukes models have very different profiles.
View attachment 483677View attachment 483678

What affect does the shape have on cutting?

2nd pic is like a 30+yr old Stihl chain…was great stuff back then. We preferred it to newer offerings due to less material to have to remove as the chain wore down. Less time with the raker file…

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I have never been able to tell any difference from behind the saw. My smoothest cutting chains are the ones with the most consistent depth. That is something I have struggled with over the years. Mostly self inflicted. It takes patience to get them harmonious.
Some racing chains have an absolutely hideous looking raker.

 

[DillonBuck]

I have never been able to tell any difference from behind the saw. My smoothest cutting chains are the ones with the most consistent depth. That is something I have struggled with over the years. Mostly self inflicted. It takes patience to get them harmonious.
Some racing chains have an absolutely hideous looking raker.

Get a progressive raker gauge. The WCS is the best I’ve seen. It gives you depth options.
A simple jig that sets the raker for the tooth it controls, based on that tooth.
First used it on a well worn chain, immediately noticed how smooth it was.

The WCS is stupidly expensive for a business card size piece of steel. $14ish. But its hardened so it doesn’t file away. You can get the roller guide thing from Husky with a progressive gauge in it, it’s not hardened and wears pretty quick.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Get a progressive raker gauge. The WCS is the best I’ve seen. It gives you depth options.
A simple jig that sets the raker for the tooth it controls, based on that tooth.
First used it on a well worn chain, immediately noticed how smooth it was.

The WCS is stupidly expensive for a business card size piece of steel. $14ish. But its hardened so it doesn’t file away. You can get the roller guide thing from Husky with a progressive gauge in it, it’s not hardened and wears pretty quick.

They are an excellent gauge. If you don't have a good memory best keep the little diagramed card handy that shows which slot is what, because it isn't on the tool.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

They are an excellent gauge. If you don't have a good memory best keep the little diagramed card handy that shows which slot is what, because it isn't on the tool.

So, I suppose you end up with a flat top raker? If that works, then we are sorta answering the question.

 

[Sloughfoot]

So, I suppose you end up with a flat top raker? If that works, then we are sorta answering the question.

Flat but angled. Lower in the front. The lower you go the steeper the angle.

 

[Philbert]

I prefer to restore the depth gauges to factory profile, to minimize the risk of a sharp corner catching.

Use a flat file, Dremel, or Scotchbrite abrasive wheel (my favorite). Some guys profile their deth gauge wheels concave, to save a step.


Philbert