Preferred Stihl chain for 32” bar?

[jjcard41]

I’m ordering a 32” Tsumura light bar in .050. What Stihl chain style do you guys use and which has last the longest before having to sharpen? I have a 25” bar and usually run an RM chain. I know there are quite a few variables such as, dirty bark, hardwood vs softwood, etc... but what would you guys suggest for general use?
Also, where do you purchase your chains? Some of you buy spools and make your own? I’ve never done that, but if it’s a decent money saver then I’m all for it.
Thanks!

 

[PA Dan]

I’m ordering a 32” Tsumura light bat in .050. What Stihl chain style do you guys use and which has last the longest before having to sharpen? I have a 25” bar and usually run an RM chain. I know there are quite a few variables such as, dirty bark, hardwood vs softwood, etc... but what would you guys suggest for general use?
Also, where do you purchase your chains? Some of you buy spools and make your own? I’ve never done that, but if it’s a decent money saver then I’m all for it.
Thanks!

I like Stihl RS the best. Oregon EXL is really good too. I spin up my own Oregon chains.

 

[jjcard41]

I like Stihl RS the best. Oregon EXL is really good too. I spin up my own Oregon chains.

Thank you sir. Where do you purchase your chains?

 

[PA Dan]

Thank you sir. Where do you purchase your chains?

My Stihl chains I get either at my dealer or on Ebay.

 

[Thumper88]

I like Stihl RS. It’s a full chisel non safety. Stays sharp well for what I do, but I’m mostly felling and bucking clean wood. RM is semi-chisel and will stay sharper longer. I pick mine up at the dealer.

 

[Skeans1]

If I'm production falling timber skip the round and go straight to square it's faster plus it takes less power to cut.

 

[Wilhelm]

I have two Stihl RS loops, they have yet to impress me.

I love Oregon full chisel for everything, Carlton full chisel is also nice, I run it on my 36" bar.
I strictly round file.

 

[drf256]

Depends a bit on the saw, the power it makes will dictate what you can get away with. Also depends on what you’ll be cutting. A downed tree, especially one with thick bark that will retain some dirt in it, is different than fresh felling and bucking.

I use Stihl .404RM semichisel for production, but that’s for firewood not commercial logging. RS is fast and does last a good long time.

I’ve even switched to RM in 3/8 on my smaller saws. It’s slower than RS for sure, but it seemingly lasts forever. I’ll use square solely for felling smaller thin barked trees.

The increased time it takes to get through the cut with Semichisel is offset by the amount of time the dull chain cuts and swapping chains/filing takes up. At least my opinion, YMMV.

 

[Wilhelm]

I noticed that semi chisel "takes" more power to cut than full chisel - both sharp, both round filed, both Oregon in my case.

I think I have some Stihl RM, I'll have to give it a try.

 

[Dustin4185]

As far as spinning your own goes, unless you find a good deal on spools, it’s as cheap to buy from the dealer. My dealer charges the same per DL for spools or loops. I can get breaks on Oregon spools, but my dealer keeps a large variety of Stihl loops in stock. As far as RM vs RS, that’s up to you. I like RM in nasty stuff or trees that may be hollow at the butt. That rotten heart wood and dirt the ants carry in seem to dull a chain fast. I use RS for most of my work though. On a 24” or bigger, I run full skip as well.

 

[huskyboy]

I noticed that semi chisel "takes" more power to cut than full chisel - both sharp, both round filed, both Oregon in my case.

I think I have some Stihl RM, I'll have to give it a try.

Yes, it does seem to take more power to pull. This is because of the rounded cutter leading edge having more friction than normal chisel chain’s pointed leading edge.

 

[deye223]

As far as spinning your own goes, unless you find a good deal on spools, it’s as cheap to buy from the dealer. My dealer charges the same per DL for spools or loops. I can get breaks on Oregon spools, but my dealer keeps a large variety of Stihl loops in stock. As far as RM vs RS, that’s up to you. I like RM in nasty stuff or trees that may be hollow at the butt. That rotten heart wood and dirt the ants carry in seem to dull a chain fast. I use RS for most of my work though. On a 24” or bigger, I run full skip as well.

Your dealer is a Thief

 

[Dustin4185]

Your dealer is a Thief

Depends on what you are paying for yours. I’m paying $00.19 per DL.

 

[Skeans1]

Depends on what you are paying for yours. I’m paying $00.19 per DL.

So 311 for a roll?


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[deye223]

Depends on what you are paying for yours. I’m paying $00.19 per DL.

Remember these are Australian prices .
620 per roll or around 38 cents a drive link if you buy a loop it will cost you $0.55 a drive link so yes your dealer is a thief

 

[Dustin4185]

So 311 for a roll?


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There about. Keep in mind this is the state contract dealer. We get a decent discount. My point was that I pay the same whether loops or rolls. Our local Co-Op does the same thing.

 

[Deets066]

Semi-skip works really well on a 32” bar, wish I had more of it.

I have rolls in full comp and full skip. So hard to justify buying loops, but I do like it.

 

[deye223]

There about. Keep in mind this is the state contract dealer. We get a decent discount. My point was that I pay the same whether loops or rolls. Our local Co-Op does the same thing.

I apologise mate I thought he was lifting the price up to the drive link price but he's not he's bringing the drive link price down to the role price he is a good dealer in fact

 

[cuinrearview]

Stay sharp the longest=.404 semi.

 

[woodfarmer]

Dealers around here won’t make loops anymore, not worth their time. However it’s buy one, get one half price.