Porting Tools - Need Some Help

[XP_Slinger]

before any of this is worth anything, you need to understand the theory of the engine. knowing how a change will effect the engine.

I'm working on it Monkey. I have good background in engine theory. The do's and don'ts of 2 stroke porting is something I'm researching big-time. I have a degree wheel on order and I intend to mount it, observe and record before I do anything with a dremel. I'm going at this nice and slow the way I did when I learned to make my own ammo. 6 weeks of preparation for 60 minutes of work...lol And to put inquiring minds at ease, I'm working on my own saws ONLY. I have no intentions of offering a redneck port job to any of my logger friends around here.
Frankly, it will be while before I'm ready to go after my own stuff with any kind of confidence. One things for sure I appreciate everyone sharing their Knowledge on this site.

 

[jmssaws]

It's not brain surgery you will be fine,it takes very little to make a saw run better.

 

[Tor R]

before any of this is worth anything, you need to understand the theory of the engine. knowing how a change will effect the engine.

thats where I have to pass lol

 

[Nitroman]

Welp........might as well get a deep throated shear, and a slip roller. Gonna want a Tig welder too. Gotta build pipes.......right?

He said, "deep throat", he-he...he-he...

 

[Al Smith]

Don't let anybody pull your leg,you can do it with an 80 dollar Dremel .It just takes some practice .Any tool bit that will cut hardwood will cut aluminum .Certain things like Craytex you can buy in bulk from McMaster Carr.

The inserts come in a varieties in grits and shapes .You'll need to buy the arbors seperately About 25-30 cents a pop ,arbors used to be about 5 bucks .You can shape the inserts using a rough grinding wheel if you choose .

 

[jmssaws]

I use alot of cratex

 

[Mastermind]

Al is right. You can do a lot with just a Dremel. They make a flex shaft for them that works damn well.

 

[jmssaws]

I have used the dremel flex shaft and it does work good.

 

[tickbitintn]

check online with Northern tool for a flex shaft rotary tool, they had them on clearance for $59.....
i have one and it has seen a lot of use so far has functioned flawlessly.


I paid $99 for mine but still well worth it.

 

[Nitroman]

check online with Northern tool for a flex shaft rotary tool, they had them on clearance for $59.....
i have one and it has seen a lot of use so far has functioned flawlessly.


I paid $99 for mine but still well worth it.

Regarding this, many say the first thing to do is pull out the flexible cable inside and regrease with a quality light grease. It really helps them operate without heating.

 

[Al Smith]

A point to ponder .With a die grinder using burrs what you are actually doing is in essence using a hand held milling machine .The tool action although much smaller reacts the same way as say a Bridgeport mill .With down milling you can pretty much control where it goes but with climb milling it can very easily get away from you .Nobody said you have to run those things wide open,slow it down a little bit so you gain control over where that tool wants to go .
Believe it or not I found some long shank cutters at flea markets ,cheap too .Some are 3" long .I can get the upper transfers by going through the exhaust port.Tricky but it can be done.
Flea bay is another option .

 

[drf256]

Two outa three Al's can't be wrong. I'll be the disagreeing Al.

Pony up and buy the CC kit. Buy once and buy right.

I've personally purchased a bunch of dremel parts, flex shaft grinders, Right angle crap, bigger discs to cut the transfers, etc....

I threw money away instead of spending it once on the right tools.

My opinion on the CC R angle handpiece. Get the 3mm collet and not the 1/8" one. An extra collet costs $70 shipped, so start with the correct one. You can buy a lot of burrs and sanding stones that are 3mm for cheap. Many times I've ordered some consumables Listed as 1/8" shank that were really 3mm. They will fall out or slip.

Of course, American made 1/8" shank tools last longer and are better quality, but I've found the need for 3mm quite often.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Don't let anybody pull your leg,you can do it with an 80 dollar Dremel .It just takes some practice .Any tool bit that will cut hardwood will cut aluminum .Certain things like Craytex you can buy in bulk from McMaster Carr.

The inserts come in a varieties in grits and shapes .You'll need to buy the arbors seperately About 25-30 cents a pop ,arbors used to be about 5 bucks .You can shape the inserts using a rough grinding wheel if you choose .

I have had a dremel for years. Only cost so far has been freshening up my cutter selection. I didn't know longer bits were out there....commence all corners of the internet seaching. Thanks for the info.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Two outa three Al's can't be wrong. I'll be the disagreeing Al.

Pony up and buy the CC kit. Buy once and buy right.
.

Normally, I would pony up. The exception being this year because of much bigger irons in the fire.

 

[XP_Slinger]

With down milling you can pretty much control where it goes but with climb milling it can very easily get away from you .Nobody said you have to run those things wide open,slow it down a little bit so you gain control over where that tool wants to go .
.

Couldn't agree more. I have learned to slow whatever tool I'm using down and use pressure to control the rate of cut, not bit RPM.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Couldn't agree more. I have learned to slow whatever tool I'm using down and use pressure to control the rate of cut, not bit RPM.

Yep, slow and easy.. What's the rush.

I can't wait to start degreeing these things, deciding on a timing recipe, and making it happen!

And I'll reiterate, the generosity with knowledge here knows no bounds and is much appreciated!

 

[XP_Slinger]

Yep, slow and easy.. What's the rush.

I can't wait to start degreeing these things, deciding on a timing recipe, and making it happen!

And I'll reiterate, the generosity with knowledge here knows no bounds and is much appreciated!

We're getting there. I'm thinking that we should use the house garage today, warm and toasty. I'm itching to open up the exhaust port on my 57.

 

[Ironworker]

We're getting there. I'm thinking that we should use the house garage today, warm and toasty. I'm itching to open up the exhaust port on my 57.

If you mean 357, they wake up easily, on mine I removed the base gasket, opened up the lower transfers and widened the exhaust and the intake.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Yeah, he means 357. For some reason he and I often refer to our saws as the '46 (346) '57 (357 and '72 (372).

We did everything to our 357s that you did except widening the exhaust and intake. We also added the second port on the muffler. We are both very impressed with the results of those basic mods!

 

[XP_Slinger]

If you mean 357, they wake up easily, on mine I removed the base gasket, opened up the lower transfers and widened the exhaust and the intake.

Yes my 357XP. As Red stated we have already deleted base gasket, ported mufflers and worked over the lower tranfers. What a difference it made. We had the ability to truly compare these mods to stock also because Reds 357 was worked as described and mine was stock for a short time. Night and day difference between the two.
Did you raise any of the port roofs to compensate for the cylinder drop? Just a thought that's been running through my mind lately.