NSP2. Cuz PA WiFi sucks

[p61 western]

Take out both seals Mikey. Then scrape out most of the grease and put that side towards the crank, the leftover grease will quickly wash out.

All the grease will be cleaned out for sure. I still use the heat method, and don't want to smell up the oven lol.

 

[beaglebriar]

If I’m in a hurry I get the Nachi bearings through shorenutz. If I’m just re-supplying, I can get them a little bit cheaper from a guy in Greece. Some have the rubber seals and some have the metal shields, but I believe they’re the same inside. Usually I only buy from the other guy if I’m buying 30 or 40 bearings at a time.

Good to know a couple of you guys have bought from shorenutz. The bearings are the same regardless of seal type according to the Motion Industries rep that comes into work. The ones I just ordered don't have any seals which is a first for me.

 

[huskihl]

don’t you have to pop both sides off so the seals are lubricated as well? What if that outside shield works loose, will it interfere with the bearing? Serious questions, not being a smartass

I take them both out. But some of the early Stihls like the 064 had metal shielded bearings and ran for 20 years. So I’m not completely certain if it’s necessary, but I take them out anyway

 

[beaglebriar]

Not to sure I have never left the shields in. I'm doing now as a recommendation from Jacob @jacob j. He says he's done it for quite awhile now.

The shields will handle the heat and RPM just fine but I've never tried it.

 

[huskihl]

Good to know a couple of you guys have bought from shorenutz. The bearings are the same regardless of seal type according to the Motion Industries rep that comes into work. The ones I just ordered don't have any seals which is a first for me.

I believe you could always get them without shields or seals. But it was $1.50 - $2 cheaper to buy them with the seals in. I think when I ordered them from Greece they were about $4 each with rubber seals.

I leave the grease in them too. I can’t imagine that it lasts longer than 20 seconds of run time. Plus, there’s no doubt that there’s a good bit of lube in there for the first break-in

 

[Czed]

you need a G flywheel, switch, metal tank, rear heathers, generator. I gotta double check if the 268 xpg was sold with plastic tank.
There is a guy selling 268 decals in UK, and if my memory is right Chris aka Duke sells 268 xpg decals.

Buy them from a decent SKF dealer, even they cost a tad more through the dealer network its worth it, to much junks on ebay. 6202 C3VG104 is the one you want DJ.
Other then the VG104 I would only bought Nachi 6202 C3, most likely without shields so I know what I get.

wanna buy a 268xpg half wrap?

 

[Czed]

 

[jacob j.]

I leave the shield in facing away from the crank. If they're shielded bearings, you'll notice the shields have tiny slots in them. That's more than enough to "burp" through the
lubricant that the seals need. In my experience, the real killer of seals in a saw engine isn't lack of lubrication, it's heat and by-products of combustion.

 

[Czed]

I leave the shield in facing away from the crank. If they're shielded bearings, you'll notice the shields have tiny slots in them. That's more than enough to "burp" through the
lubricant that the seals need. In my experience, the real killer of seals in a saw engine isn't lack of lubrication, it's heat and by-products of combustion.

idiot's is the cause of most of what i work on.

 

[p61 western]

idiot's is the cause of most of what i work on.

Yes

 

[Tor R]

The cheapest Nachi 6202 C3 bearings I’ve seen is in UK, around 2.02£ ie 2.70$ for each. How much they take for shipping I don’t know. bearingboys.co.uk

wanna buy a 268xpg half wrap?

if I just had a saw who needed heathed wrap, Dave

 

[Stump Shot]

The place I got mine is JSB Great Bearings. Metal shielded they are. Going to pop off the side facing the crankcase.

Like the other fellas said, pop them both off, you need to get lube to the seal so it won't wear prematurely a shield is no replacement for a seal.

 

[Stump Shot]

I leave the shield in facing away from the crank. If they're shielded bearings, you'll notice the shields have tiny slots in them. That's more than enough to "burp" through the
lubricant that the seals need. In my experience, the real killer of seals in a saw engine isn't lack of lubrication, it's heat and by-products of combustion.

So, what's the benefit to that? Are you trying to keep more oil at the bearing?

 

[usmcbuckwild]

So, what's the benefit to that? Are you trying to keep more oil at the bearing?

that would be my guess. Would that shield help reduce pressure pulses on the inside of the crank seal? Maybe keep it a more uniform pressure outside the shield? The small slits in the shield will still allow some fuel mix through to get to the seal while trapping more for the bearing. At least that’s what I see in my head.

 

[p61 western]

that would be my guess. Would that shield help reduce pressure pulses on the inside of the crank seal? Maybe keep it a more uniform pressure outside the shield? The small slits in the shield will still allow some fuel mix through to get to the seal while trapping more for the bearing. At least that’s what I see in my head.

Yep I don't see enough negatives to not try it. I see the bearings lasting a lot longer, and think the seals will be just fine. If it kills the seals it won't be hard to pop the shields out. Never know until you try something.

 

[jacob j.]

So, what's the benefit to that? Are you trying to keep more oil at the bearing?

It keeps some of the combustion products away from the seals. Stihl was thinking along the right lines when they tried the shielded bearings in the larger saws, but they
made the mistake of having both shields in which trapped fine sawdust in the bearing itself, leading to failures. Their thinking was that the shields would keep fine sawdust
out of the bearings.

Yep I don't see enough negatives to not try it. I see the bearings lasting a lot longer, and think the seals will be just fine. If it kills the seals it won't be hard to pop the shields out. Never know until you try something.

My long term testing in my own saws has yielded excellent results. My back-up saw is going on six years with the set-up and the seals are doing great (aftermarket seals at that). It has about 300 hours run time.

 

[usmcbuckwild]

Yep I don't see enough negatives to not try it. I see the bearings lasting a lot longer, and think the seals will be just fine. If it kills the seals it won't be hard to pop the shields out. Never know until you try something.

Its worth a try. The more i think about it, the more sense it makes.

 

[PA Dan]

It keeps some of the combustion products away from the seals. Stihl was thinking along the right lines when they tried the shielded bearings in the larger saws, but they
made the mistake of having both shields in which trapped fine sawdust in the bearing itself, leading to failures. Their thinking was that the shields would keep fine sawdust
out of the bearings.

So would leaving the outside shield in place trap the dust and let it build up on that side of the bearing?

 

[usmcbuckwild]

So would leaving the outside shield in place trap the dust and let it build up on that side of the bearing?

I would imagine that it would be washed out continuously as the saw cycles. When Stihl ran BOTH shields there was a limited amount of fuel mix across the bearings. It was enough to lubricate but not enough to wash away contaminants. Leaving the contaminants trapped with no way to be removed.

 

[p61 western]

It keeps some of the combustion products away from the seals. Stihl was thinking along the right lines when they tried the shielded bearings in the larger saws, but they
made the mistake of having both shields in which trapped fine sawdust in the bearing itself, leading to failures. Their thinking was that the shields would keep fine sawdust
out of the bearings.



My long term testing in my own saws has yielded excellent results. My back-up saw is going on six years with the set-up and the seals are doing great (aftermarket seals at that). It has about 300 hours run time.

It all makes sense to me for sure. 300 hours of falling is a good amount of time imo.