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41FanForLife

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That little blonde will definitely shoot whoever did it and
She has 4 horse's in the next field
That she barrel races with
She'd hunt somebody down if they hurt them.
My sister in law would do the same. Them horses are her babies
 

Lightning Performance

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@redline4 correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that on those you need an ABS capable scan tool to cycle the solenoids to bleed the system properly.
Probably... but normally after the first heart attack road test on the ABS it gives me the rear end back. The brake light in the dash will cycle now but nothing to the back end. Full pedal travel again so it does push fluid to the ABS unit now. Master is bleed out and the block for the front brakes. Worked on many off theses and every individual one acts different. They all have slightly different systems and they all suck! I'll pull the damn ABS valve to the rear end this time if it don't wana play nice. Vac bleed might do it to get things flowing again. This is the fourth or fifth time losing the back half from brake line rot and blown wheel cylinders. This thing gets worked to much hauling now. My F350 is going back on the road soon.

Anyway to bleed the back at the unit by jumping starting a valve?
Or maybe pulling the rear brake light sensor?

If not... a trip to a shop will be in order to regain muh flow.
I'm just going to run it today and see if some fluid starts to work toward the back and stop the ABS shut down crap. Easy day with pottery deliveries and some trimming near the lake at BHR RV Park.
 

Lightning Performance

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Its not 100% necessary. There is a little clip tool to hold the pin(s) in on the prop valve too, but one can still do it without.
Go slow with the pedal. May have to hit it a few times, if the red brake light is on, there is mo fluid going to the rear. They are a pain, but can be done.

Looks like you took over the translating job from @Fruecrue
Agreed
 
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