Novice Sharpening Free Hand

[MinnWeekendCutter]

I found that the Husqvarna roller guide I picked up is set for a 25 degree angle vs 30 and it didn’t seem to fit on the Stihl RS chain too well. After sharpening my other chains with the roller guide a number of times with what seems to be good results I tried free hand on the 3/8 Stihl RS. I’m using a 7/32” file instead of the 13/64” like the Stihl box calls for but that’s what I have available for now.

I haven’t cut with this chain since sharpening it but seems to me that I have too much hook if I compare to the mark on the side plate. I’m also not sure about the burr on the lower part of the side plate/gullet area. Will that likely come off when the chain gets into wood?

Edit for grammar.

Thanks for any ideas you have.

 

[huskihl]

I wouldn’t worry about the 25 versus 30°, if you wanted to use your roller guide. Your cutters look fine to me

 

[Pincher]

I think the OP was referring to the wear indicator mark on the side plate not matching the shape of his gullet/hook. Looks slightly aggressive, but I would try it in wood. If the rakers/depth gauges are slightly high, leave them for now. If too grabby, hold file a little higher next time. Looks like a good start on freehand filing. @Philbert has lots of information in the just chains section.

 

[MinnWeekendCutter]

Thanks guys. This is the first time I’ve sharpened this chain so I’ll leave the depth gauges/rakers where they are (a little above the hardwood setting on the husky progressive gauge) for now and see how it cuts. I’ll plan to try to hold the file a bit higher next time.

I’ve been reading on here and AS a lot and have learned a great deal already (especially from Philbert as you mention).

I (think I) understand that the 25 vs 30 degree top plate angle is more a a fine tuning type item. The main reason I didn’t keep using the swedish roller guide (the blue one, for regular 3/8 chain) on this particular chain was that it seemed the notches in the guide were slightly too narrow to fit over the chain properly. Instead of modifying the guide or continuing to hassle with it I figured I would try a go at free hand.

I do plan to eventually pickup the roller guide set up for the Husqvarna C85/C83 X-Cut chain since that is the other chain I have (came on the 572xp). My dealer just didn’t have any of those in stock at the time. I suppose even that one will still be set up for Husqvarna chain vs Stihl (overall chassis width a bit more narrow perhaps). It seemed the Stihl chain was a bit wider at the tie straps/rivets but maybe I’m imagining that. I don’t have a good caliper yet.

Thanks for the replies and I’ll take any more advice anyone has. This is a helpful place for sure. I’m just a homeowner hack but I’ve learned a lot about being safe and maintaining expensive equipment so it lasts.

edit for grammar (again)

 

[Xr650jkallen]

I always end up with my cutters looking like that. They do tend to be grabby, but I cut pretty dirty wood and it may be my imagination but I think they hold up better. They tend to get even grabbier as the teeth wear and the spacing between the cutter and the depth gauge expands.

 

[MinnWeekendCutter]

I always end up with my cutters looking like that. They do tend to be grabby, but I cut pretty dirty wood and it may be my imagination but I think they hold up better. They tend to get even grabbier as the teeth wear and the spacing between the cutter and the depth gauge expands.

Gotcha. I now realize how much I was relying on the rollers of the guide to keep the file up higher on the cutter. When the guide isn’t there, I seem to have defaulted to letting the file rest further down in the gullet.

Another question for anyone, where do I go to find a file card? So far I’ve just been tapping the end of my files and wiping the file with an old t-shirt rag in an attempt to remove shavings.

 

[Xr650jkallen]

Ace hardware has them.

 

[Wolverine]

In my opinion, your file is a bit low in the cutter. That's a bit more hook than I'd like(especially the last pic you posted). And those roller guides will work on Stihl chain if you take a file and open up the slot just a tad. I do agree with not concerning yourself with the 25 vs. 30. These slight differences are really personal preference. If you're primarily cutting softwood, so be it.

 

[FederalQ]

Fleet Farm should have file cards.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I use an old tooth brush instead of a file card. As It fits in the sharpening roll, and I have a regular supply of used ones that would go in the bin.

I’d say your sharpening looks good, but you have to know how it behaves in the wood your cutting. Also it maybe more grabby at slower cutting speeds in hard wood. Idk about Softwoods

Although I like a little less hook and a bit more bite. The amount of bite can be experimented by how you file the depth gauges. And for this my favourite is the progressive raker/depth gauge guide, as the depth gauge is little more rounded/sloped you get a different tooth orientation when cutting.
A little makes a big difference on the depth gauges.
(Edit, so like others say leave then high..for now... You can only file the tooth back if you take to much off the depth gauge, been there and done that...once )

You only find out what you like and what’s best with the wood and size saw your using by playing around and trying different things.

it took me a few yrs to get to know what I like and know what’s wrong when it don’t cut like it should.

Btw I cut mostly hard woods but not really hardwood like they get in oz.

 

[MinnWeekendCutter]

Thanks for replies. I’ll try the toothbrush for cleaning files too!

I’ll see how the chain works. I’m usually cutting some type of hardwood but I do have some large pine rounds than need to be made smaller in order to move by hand. I’ll try this chain on that job first.

I didn’t try to get so much hook but since it’s there now I’ll see how it goes.

Just curious, it’s below freezing here in MN again. What do you folks usually change for frozen wood compared to non frozen? Less aggressive as far as cutter hook and lower depth gauges or more? I assume less since the wood is even harder to cut, but limits experience here with sharpening and cutting.

I agree that the progressive depth gauge tool is a great resource. I sure can’t do it by eyeballing it!

 

[MinnWeekendCutter]

Thanks again for the input. I grabbed a couple file cards at Fleet Farm.

The chain cut well in some pine rounds that I had sitting around. I’ll use it for that wood and try for less hook next time I sharpen.

 

[jetsam]

Some guys use a regular brass brush, a brass shell casing, a copper pipe mashed flat, or a piece of wood. All these softer materials conform to the shape of the teeth without blunting them. I imagine this is more and more a concern as cards use spring steel, and cheap files are increasingly case-hardened mild steel.