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New Pro Chain from Stihl

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2013 pic of RS. I noticed that weird grind right away.
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It's like a little bump half way up the side plate. What stands out to me is the tremendous "beak" and the slim raker. New Husky chain is similar.
maxresdefault.jpg

DW, have you ran those 2 back to back?
 

Duane(Pa)

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2013 pic of RS. I noticed that weird grind right away.
View attachment 230014
View attachment 230013
It's like a little bump half way up the side plate. What stands out to me is the tremendous "beak" and the slim raker. New Husky chain is similar.
maxresdefault.jpg

DW, have you ran those 2 back to back?
I haven’t done any testing. Out of the box, The difference between .325 .063 RS and .325 .050 RSP is like night and day. Not a test, just the wow factor.
 

RI Chevy

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These new Out of the box fast chains are a great thing. BUT, they should provide a little guidance on how to sharpen and touch up when the time comes.
Aint no good to any of us if it can't be replicated...
 

Duane(Pa)

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I saw an answer to a FAQ from Stihl about not being able to duplicate factory tooth profile long before RSP became available.
 

Philbert

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I saw an answer to a FAQ from Stihl about not being able to duplicate factory tooth profile long before RSP became available.
And . . . are you going to share it?

If there are advantages to this type of 'scalloped' cutting edge, we should be able to 'imitate' it to some extent, using multiple passes with a grinder or file, or with a profiled grinding wheel. But it would help to know what we are trying to achieve.

Philbert
 

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I think I will experiment and try it with a used chain. See if I can replicate it. I'll let you know how it works when I get to it.
 

Duane(Pa)

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And . . . are you going to share it?

If there are advantages to this type of 'scalloped' cutting edge, we should be able to 'imitate' it to some extent, using multiple passes with a grinder or file, or with a profiled grinding wheel. But it would help to know what we are trying to achieve.

Philbert
I guess what I meant was they said in FAQ:
“yeah, you cannot do what we do, because what we do is done before assembly “
 
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Philbert

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I guess what I meant was they said in FAQ:
“yeah, you cannot do what we do because what we do is done before assembly “
I don't buy that answer. (theirs, not yours).

Several years ago, I have the opportunity to tour the Oregon factory, and watched them grind the cutters on very specialized, custom, equipment. Yes those machines were very different than my 511A. And, yes, it was done before the chains were assembled. And I understand that they may have newer machines since then. So, 'no', we can't grind cutters exactly the same way that they do. But we can approximate the resulting profile, even if it requires a multi-step process (e.g. 3 passes through the grinder).

Philbert
 

legdelimber

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And . . . are you going to share it?

If there are advantages to this type of 'scalloped' cutting edge, we should be able to 'imitate' it to some extent, using multiple passes with a grinder or file, or with a profiled grinding wheel. But it would help to know what we are trying to achieve.

Philbert
Phillbert, Next time you have a pile of "rocked" chains to grind, Try not to dress or true up the grinding wheel.
I think that you'll find the wheel profile drifts to something approximating the funny Stihl grind.

Oh and has been mentioned above, I also have a few links of the odd Stihl profile from back around 2013.
I picked it up back when I was first messing with the Poulan pp5020.
(AS reformated their site and now I can't navigate it to look for any photos that weren't lost)
I can remember thinking, then, that it would be tricky to re-create by hand.
Closet thing, for simplest hand filing, would be if we used a file for 1/4" or 3/8" lopro chain to create the top hook after using a large round file sort of deep in the gullet perhaps?
 

legdelimber

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For anyone wondering why the grinder would develop that shape.
What happens is the region of grinding wheel, that hits the top plate (and radius under it), is passing through a cross section of something around 4 times thicker than the wheel portion that grinds the gullet.
You'll have to stop and think of how the wheel sweeps/passes across the cutter to understand the cross section idea.
So we slowly see the wheel wear back to that ( quasi semi-square? ) grind.
 

Philbert

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If the chain manufacturers would let us know the edge profile that they are trying to achieve (and preferably 'why'), we could figure out how to approximate it. Might take multiple grinder passes. Might take using different grinding wheels (or files) for different parts of the cutter. Might involved profiled wheels, etc. But the guys on these forums would find a way, if it in fact makes a difference. Might not matter to an 'average' chainsaw user, but the guys who bother with square grinds (filing) and fuss with race chains could come up with a process to make it work as well as 'OOB' performance!

Philbert
 

Duane(Pa)

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I wish I would’ve taken a photo. I did some noodling with my oft used, never sharpened RSP today. It absolutely glistened like something in a Harley shop. Tip to gullet. I am thinking the alloy used in the tooth has been improved. My saws are small, my trees are small, so be that as it may, I have put several gallons of mix “through” this chain. While I admired it today for sheen, I was baffled by how sharp it is, after what in my book, is a ton of use.
 
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