New 562 xp

[Locust Cutter]

Sounds like your fuel was key here IMO

can you show us what a properly ported muffler from mastermind looks like?

I'll try to snap a pic later and show it, though most of the magic is on the inside, and I'm in no hurry to remove it right now. I don't like fixing stuff that ain't broke...

Wow, I was told by a mechanic never to run A.V. fuel as it’ll burn way too hot. How long have you been doing that for? what was the recall on the 2012?

With all of my Saws since I was about 15, Dad did/does the same. I run it probably 75% of the time in everything from my 201T to my Snellerized MS660, and everything else in-between. The 660 and Stumpbroke 372xp probably come out of the barn 4-7x per year, but usually see 4-10 tanks when they do. Some combo of the MS201T, Echo 2511T, MS261, Mastermind(ed) 346xp, 550xp (At Kevin's right now), Masterminded 262xp, and 562xp always come out of the barn for any tree I down... They all see a betwee 32:1-40:1 (syn) and AV gas cocktail, unless I just can't get by the FBO, then it's 87 E-0 as that's the only option locally. Tru Fuel runs well in the Winter but can vaporlock BADLY in the Summer... My 660 HATES it in the summer...

The recall was for a problem between the coil, brain, and carb, that made for a BAD off-throttle bog on initial acceleration, that took about 3 months to manifest, and then got worse with time. After the local dealers shot craps on me, Terry Landrum actually fixed it for me (gratis), before things went South with Him unfortunately... The last key was the muffler though. I may have it ported by Kevin, but I may not. I haven't decided yet. If not, I WILL plug the decomp, and delete the base gasket. Not sure about the timing, as it runs like a scalded dog right now, at least when it's not compared to an AWOL 562...

Never heard of that, but i have heard that aviation fuel is leaded.
87-92+ octane all burn at the same temp, only difference is the antiknock capabilities. If im not mistaken aviation fuel has lead in it to give it a superior anti knock capability

The octane rating is the measure of additive that prevents premature detonation and pinging. The Tetra-Ethyl lead was/is for upper cylinder lubrication and valve seat protection, and may slightly cool the flame front. Either way, being 9 points higher than traditional premium fuel, there's additional protection which I find important for High compression 2-stroke engines under heavy continuous load, sometimes in a hot environment. Heck, my 562 doesn't really run right (with any fuel), until you put the beans to her, to properly get it up to temp, then She sings...

To the OP: My saw didn't truly break in until I got about a gallon or more of mix through her. I honestly didn't like it for the first gallon of gas, as I had experience with hopped up 357's and 359's...

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Made some washers out of gasket paper for the lower exhaust bolts (thanks woodfarmer for the idea!) and sleeves so that the bolt doesnt have metal to metal contact with the muffler.

i do remember the case for this saw getting extremely hot, especially on the oil side cause when i would pop the cap for a Refill the oil was sometimes smoking or steaming.
Im excited to put this little pig buried to the hilt in wood over and over again. Reminds me of that k19 movie where he tests the sub to the absolute extreme it can handle


Need a good quality rivet gun, i dont have one currently cause the last one i bought broke. Any good brands out there that are half decent?

 

[Sprinter]

Looks like there is a spot to add a bit of insulating tape inside the cover above the partition. There is a thin little bit of plastic there that could allow heat in over the carb partition .

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Alright, 30C today, ran the tits off of her, and it was worse than before. It appears the insulating blanket under the muffler made it hotter quicker, so dont do it...
i pulled the cover and the coil was scorching hot, this is my next area to experiment with.

i will say this, its not the fuel or the carb box or the gas tank, the were very cool... nowhere near hot enough for vapour lock.
Gonna try and insulate the coil next, its the last thing i can think of that makes sense...

 

[huskyboy]

Alright, 30C today, ran the tits off of her, and it was worse than before. It appears the insulating blanket under the muffler made it hotter quicker, so dont do it...
i pulled the cover and the coil was scorching hot, this is my next area to experiment with.

i will say this, its not the fuel or the carb box or the gas tank, the were very cool... nowhere near hot enough for vapour lock.
Gonna try and insulate the coil next, its the last thing i can think of that makes sense...

Open your muffler if you haven’t.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Open your muffler if you haven’t.

Yep next step.

I want to also try and see if i can insulate the coil. No time today, ill get around to it soon.
I really thought that blanket would work but like i said , made It worse. Goes to show an air gap is the best insulator.
Maybe reflective tape underneath with an air gap would help...
anyways gonna open up the muffler, gonna do a nice job on this though.

 

[NeSurcaster]

Even tho I've had no restart problems with the 562, My muffler is in a box to have ZCS mod it. I think mine hit the magic hour mark because it was a true beast (for a 60cc saw) last weekend. I had a nicely filed chain on it and it was ripping threw pin oak w/ the 20" not punching threw the other side. I was too lazy to throw the 24" on it w/ full skip. I should of said I wasn't climbing down to change bars and I wasn't gonna wait 20 mins for ground guy to change the bar.
But between the sudden wake up of the saw and the pro muff mod, I got high expectations for this saw

 

[Moparmyway]

Even tho I've had no restart problems with the 562, My muffler is in a box to have ZCS mod it. I think mine hit the magic hour mark because it was a true beast (for a 60cc saw) last weekend. I had a nicely filed chain on it and it was ripping threw pin oak w/ the 20" not punching threw the other side. I was too lazy to throw the 24" on it w/ full skip. I should of said I wasn't climbing down to change bars and I wasn't gonna wait 20 mins for ground guy to change the bar.
But between the sudden wake up of the saw and the pro muff mod, I got high expectations for this saw

How many tanks do you think it took ?

 

[NeSurcaster]

Probably about 10+ maybe 15 tanks

 

[Locust Cutter]

That sounds about right.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Probably about 10+ maybe 15 tanks

Thanks for that info.

It seems i am bound and determined again, i have removed the deflector and the internal pipe leading to the deflector. I initially tried to break the brazing for this small little pipe and pull it out but it must have been pressed in and brazed. I instead just used a stepper bit and went in through the hole, just before the piece broke off inside i got some needle nose, squashed it and then broke it free fatiguing the metal and pulled it out.

there is a channel on the inside with small holes on the side and a larger 3/8 hole on the top near the exhaust port and at the bottom pointing down.
I wont be able to remove the channel without cutting the muffler in half, and im not gonna do that. However i think drilling a half inch hole in the centre of this will allow it to breathe better.

I dont want to make too many holes, i know that sounds counter productive to what the end goal hear is which is more flow which is less heat. But I dont want a direct path to the exhaust port in which small particles of wood dirt etc dont have a straight shot into the piston during use or transport.

the end result will be a 1” pipe coming out at an angle in the corner with the top hole you see in the picture covered and brazed shut with a similar gauge steel.
If i take my time i can smooth out the Brass brazing and then paint it black and bake it for the final cure.

 

[huskyboy]

I wasn't gonna wait 20 mins for ground guy to change the bar.

Takes him 20 minutes to change a bar/chain??! You sir... need a new ground guy. Lol

 

[Moparmyway]

View attachment 254865 View attachment 254866
Thanks for that info.

It seems i am bound and determined again, i have removed the deflector and the internal pipe leading to the deflector. I initially tried to break the brazing for this small little pipe and pull it out but it must have been pressed in and brazed. I instead just used a stepper bit and went in through the hole, just before the piece broke off inside i got some needle nose, squashed it and then broke it free fatiguing the metal and pulled it out.

there is a channel on the inside with small holes on the side and a larger 3/8 hole on the top near the exhaust port and at the bottom pointing down.
I wont be able to remove the channel without cutting the muffler in half, and im not gonna do that. However i think drilling a half inch hole in the centre of this will allow it to breathe better.

I dont want to make too many holes, i know that sounds counter productive to what the end goal hear is which is more flow which is less heat. But I dont want a direct path to the exhaust port in which small particles of wood dirt etc dont have a straight shot into the piston during use or transport.

the end result will be a 1” pipe coming out at an angle in the corner with the top hole you see in the picture covered and brazed shut with a similar gauge steel.
If i take my time i can smooth out the Brass brazing and then paint it black and bake it for the final cure.

This series of mufflers happen to be the worlds best brazed cans, ever !
Every single jackrabbit piece of metal on or in this muffler has it, their furnace brazing is second to none !

Come in from the cylinder side and get as big of a hole as you can, right there.
With your intended finished muffler mod, you wont be getting anything in there with a straight shot

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

This series of mufflers happen to be the worlds best brazed cans, ever !
Every single jackrabbit piece of metal on or in this muffler has it, their furnace brazing is second to none !

Come in from the cylinder side and get as big of a hole as you can, right there.
With your intended finished muffler mod, you wont be getting anything in there with a straight shot
View attachment 254915

Ok ill drill away

 

[huskyboy]

Ok ill drill away

Come on in... the water is fine lol

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Come on in... the water is fine lol

This series of mufflers happen to be the worlds best brazed cans, ever !
Every single jackrabbit piece of metal on or in this muffler has it, their furnace brazing is second to none !

Come in from the cylinder side and get as big of a hole as you can, right there.
With your intended finished muffler mod, you wont be getting anything in there with a straight shot
View attachment 254915

So i guess that inner baffle is strictly a noise thing? Its neat how it swoops down to the bottom of the muffler with holes on the sides top and bottom. I wonder if there is any tuning associated with it from an engineers standpoint?

I only bring this up cause theres that youtube video in which he shows autotune fuel usage before and after a gutted muffler with no change in numbers.
Either way im tanking it cause thats not the purpose we are after here, heat is the enemy!

 

[CR888]

The early 562 had a definite fault in its cooling system. I'd mod your shroud to let more air flow over the cooling fins like the updated saws with the slapp happy fix Husky did. That is of coarse if you haven't already done this.

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Ok done

Gonna try and insulate the coil after work, see of there is a way

 

[kneedeepinsaws]

Out here in the bush, cut a whole buncha wood got it real hot. She did it again...

did notice something though, primer bulb was pumping nothing even tho half a tank. Turned it on its side, popped the cap and pumped the bulb some more and it started to flow. Didnt notice a vacuum or pressure when I popped the tank cap... left the cap off on its side and it fired right up, ran normal.

Something is happening with the tank vent when the saw gets hot.
Gonna try running an echo or stihl vent when i get home into the airbox and remove the rediculous sintered brake pad pucks this vent likes to use with the rubber check.

 

[Johnmn]

Looks like there is a spot to add a bit of insulating tape inside the cover above the partition. There is a thin little bit of plastic there that could allow heat in over the carb partitionView attachment 254711 View attachment 254712 .

Any report on this?