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My new BIY sawmill and rail bed.

J & L Creations

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Cool to see different ways of doing things. Using the cfm you are during sand blasting it probably doesnt matter which comes first, dryer or tank.

The only reason I ask was I normally see the dryer plumbed before the tank so the moist air can be dried before storage.
Agreed. Also the main reason I plumbed it this way was that the compressor is mounted on and plumbed into the 60 gallon tank. If the compressor had been a separate entity from the tank, like what we have in our aircraft repair shop I more than likely would have built it as you suggest. In our aircraft repair shop, about two years ago I installed a new high volume Kaeser compressor, another compressor slaved to the Kaeser, a large hot tank, a refrigeration type condensate and a large cold tank supplying 125 psi to about 3000' of aluminum Kaeser air lines, all plumbed in that order. Compressors, tanks and refer condensate all have timed drain solenoids, so we don't have to spend time draining all the water out of them. It is a very sweet system to say the least. Here is a video of our setup.
 

Redfin

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I installed a new high volume Kaeser compressor, another compressor slaved to the Kaeser, a large hot tank, a refrigeration type condensate and a large cold tank supplying 125 psi to about 3000' of aluminum Kaeser air lines, all plumbed in that order. Compressors, tanks and refer condensate all have timed drain solenoids,
Part of my job is maintaining the air compressors/dryers we have to supply the cables for our underground facilties. We use high volume low pressure twin cylinder compressors and drying towers with diatomaceous earth as the tower media. They have 4 way valves that reverse flow every 30 seconds. One tower dries the incoming air and also dries the other tower. Purge valves release the moist air on every cycle. Cool build Sir.
 

J & L Creations

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Thanks for sharing Jeff. You guys have a really nice setup.
Thanks Mastermind, It took about 9 months to install all that we have (two large "drive a truck in ovens" for aircraft parts, paint and sanding booths) and get them all up to code with all the inspections and calibration tests, along with FAA approval. I also had to upgrade all the 3 phase electrical panels and add 5 more for our needs, along with the main feed into the building. Must have ran 2000' of electrical conduit and 8000' of wire, all over head, not to mention all the air lines I ran. but the good news is, that it's all behind me now.:aaaaa::clap2::clapclap:
 

exSW

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Thanks Mastermind, It took about 9 months to install all that we have (two large "drive a truck in ovens" for aircraft parts, paint and sanding booths) and get them all up to code with all the inspections and calibration tests, along with FAA approval. I also had to upgrade all the 3 phase electrical panels and add 5 more for our needs, along with the main feed into the building. Must have ran 2000' of electrical conduit and 8000' of wire, all over head, not to mention all the air lines I ran. but the good news is, that it's all behind me now.:aaaaa::clap2::clapclap:
Ok I believe you can build your own sawmill. That level of work is impressive.
 

czar800

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Very impressive work!

I would be very interested in seeing some of your designs and features you used to building your mill.

I've got a feeling this isn't the first mill you built/used?
 

J & L Creations

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You do really nice work.
Thanks Mastermind, it's been quite a project. It's going to be well worth the effort though once it's up and running. We will be adding on to our building to house the sawmill and also a drying/storage room.
 

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le
Very impressive work!

I would be very interested in seeing some of your designs and features you used to building your mill.

I've got a feeling this isn't the first mill you built/used?

Thanks czar800. Most of the design and details are out of my head using materials we already had available to us, so we wouldn't be spending allot of money. Most expensive items were the 18 HP engine, lead screws, sprockets, pulleys and paint. The rail bed trailer for the logs, we actually already had all the materials to build it, cost was just in welding supplies. This is my first mill. I did much research and viewing of You Tube videos to come up with an easy to operate and most functional cost effective design. I knew I did not want a crank handle to raise and lower the saw, so I modified a 12v DC electric cable winch to use sprockets, chain and lead screws. I incorporated a battery and alternator, to run the winch, and the engine starter, as I did not want to pull a rope to start the engine. The use of tires and wheels simplified the build as they absorb vibration. On the axles I used flange type pillow block bearings, as they self aline, so I could have toe in and out adjustments, which is needed to track the bandsaw blade correctly and to keep the blade from walking off the tires. There were many things to think about and design into the saw before I started building the saw, so I would not have to backtrack, start over or redesign something. Before I built the rail bed, I tested the saw on a log, it works well, so I knew the design was sound. Now I am at the end of the build and have taken many photos and videos. I will be editing them into one video and uploading it to YT and posting it here, so all can benefit from what I have gleaned information wise and built.
 
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J & L Creations

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Yes, this was
The hillbilly in me wonders if you could start with a house trailer frame.

This was my first thought, did buy a 20' long mobile home trailer frame. But it has /had two trailer axles, trailer wheels and tires, not really good for long term use. So we traded for really good hauling trailer axles with brakes and just happen to have wheels and tires to fit them. So a project down the road will be building this mobile home trailer up to fit our saw. We will have to reduce the width of it to make the saw fit right. So yes this can be done and work very well. Infact you could reuse the steel angle iron that was meant to support the outer walls as you more than likely will have to cut all of them off.
 
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exSW

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Yes, this was


This was my first thought, did buy a 20' long mobile home trailer frame. But it has /had two trailer axles, trailer wheels and tires, not really good for long term use. So we traded for really good hauling trailer axles with brakes and just happen to have wheels and tires to fit them. So a project down the road will be building this mobile home trailer up to fit our saw. We will have to reduce the width of it to make the saw fit right. So yes this can be done and work very well. Infact you could reuse the steel angle iron that was meant to support the outer walls as you more than likely will have to cut all of them off.

That leads to thought number two RV camper frame. High speed axles and brakes and you just about can't give an old one away(honest).
 
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