HELP! Looking for some advice on fixing my iron and oak 30ton log splitter

[Yellowking86]

Looks like The previous owner did some welding (I think) the four way wedge pops off every now and again when a big knotty piece pushes it at an upward angle. I don’t think it was originally welded and the piston looks shorter than it’s supposed to be. Not sure if I should weld back on or what would be the best fix. It also has auto cycle but it is very finicky sometimes it works great sometimes it doesn’t work at all and sometimes it half works then stops halfway through not sure if this is fixable or not, seems to pop out of auto cycle very easy for no reason. Lastly has anyone seen a wedge that would fit on here into 2x2 steel if I wanted to change the four way wedge to a six way?

 

[Junk Meister]

Will the rusty/welded portion on the end of the chrome ram/shaft screw out?

 

[Junk Meister]

If you can tip the top of the ram out and get the chrome shaft/ram to clear everything (Maybe block the cross wedge way up SAFELY) and extend the ram to max this may hold it so you can try to unscrew the rusty looking part in the end of the ram loose. JUST DON"T DING THE CHROME.
Also what is going on at the bottom yoke/clevis at the base of the cylinder? Is a ball socket missing (Like on a tractor 3 point hitch) or a bushing of some design deleted by previous owner? That slop will let the cross wedge go unchecked with the grain influencing the split. Check out the Illustrated Parts List (IPL).
As far as the return detente disengaging there is a lot of info on adjusting that here and on UTube.

 

[drf256]

Reweld. The guy did a shìt job. Has to all be cleaned and done right. Need a gap/V around female part so you can get a full pen weld.

Take a look at the tip of the ram. There’s 2 tiny spots of weld and no penetration.

 

[Yellowking86]

Will the rusty/welded portion on the end of the chrome ram/shaft screw out?

I’ll check

 

[legdelimber]

Wouldn't a clevis/pivot be better for the rod end of cylinder also?
Seems like that lift arraignment will always be tilting back and forth, thus continually working on (bending) that cylinder rod connection point to the base plate.

 

[drf256]

Wouldn't a clevis/pivot be better for the rod end of cylinder also?
Seems like that lift arraignment will always be tilting back and forth, thus continually working on (bending) that cylinder rod connection point to the base plate.

Looks like that’s just your 4 way height adjustment?

Holes in the beam with a pin would suffice, but I guess the wood would cleave them off.

Id just do a,good weld and use the machine for another 20 years. That weld is just bad.

 

[Dustin4185]

The way that bottom clevis looks and the hack welding job, Kim not sure that’s the right cylinder. That’s definitely an odd setup. I would start by making/getting a bushing for the bottom. Then I would clean up hole, chamfer it and the rod end, extend it out to get away from the seals and lay a nice bead with a 7018. If the bottom of the ram still moves around, it will break again in short time. I think something has been changed.

 

[legdelimber]

Went googling a moment..hmm
Does look like the manufacturer builds them with the rod into the plate.

https://www.woodsplitterdirect.com/cdn/shop/products/BHH4013GX30_full-1.jpg?v=1611869625&width=1200

I'd say drf256 has it nailed, with re-do it and 20 more years!

 

[Junk Meister]

Holes in the beam with a pin would suffice, but I guess the wood would cleave them off.

Isn't it tucked behind everything?
I think an IPL would be of value.
Something needs to float as a weld will break.
BUT all of that FLOAT at the bottom is just WRONG..

 

[legdelimber]

Would you try the welder ground clamp on the lift plate and trust it to not somehow still manage to work around and arc across the cylinder rod to the cylinder?
I'm thinking of damage to the rod surface resulting and a leak problem later.

Or would you try to unhook the bottom of the cylinder body and isolate it
or just take the whole assembly off of the splitter and be sure of no alternate ground path occurring.

 

[Junk Meister]

Went googling a moment..hmm
Does look like the manufacturer builds them with the rod into the plate.

https://www.woodsplitterdirect.com/cdn/shop/products/BHH4013GX30_full-1.jpg?v=1611869625&width=1200

I'd say drf256 has it nailed, with re-do it and 20 more years!

Through the plate yes, bit how is it captivated? A bolt and washer? Maybe the ram is turned down, bored and threaded and the PO slobbered weld so new owner cannot see what is what.

 

[Dustin4185]

Went googling a moment..hmm
Does look like the manufacturer builds them with the rod into the plate.

https://www.woodsplitterdirect.com/cdn/shop/products/BHH4013GX30_full-1.jpg?v=1611869625&width=1200

I'd say drf256 has it nailed, with re-do it and 20 more years!

I did as well. The first ones I found were slip on only and I thought someone had added this. I wonder if it was designed to float or it is welded from the factory. It’s hard to believe it was welded. @Junk Meister might be on to something with unscrewing the rusty part. Maybe it was bolted or had some other retention. Coming from someone that’s had to take a bunch of cylinders off over time and even rebuilt a few myself, that would be a PITA to have serviced if you had to take the wedge with you to the bench or hydraulic shop, lol. I can’t find an IPL for it. My Google-fu is failing me.

 

[legdelimber]

Still looking at the image and can't tell if perhaps the manufacturer possibly had a bolt through the plate and screwed into the rod end?
Junkmeister has a point with things being tucked behind the vertical bits.

Imagine a broken bolt and owner can't get a grip to remove the stub, so out comes the welder?

Edit: you guys are posting much faster than me.

 

[Junk Meister]

Would you try the welder ground clamp on the lift plate and trust it to not somehow still manage to work around and arc across the cylinder rod to the cylinder?
I'm thinking of damage to the rod surface resulting and a leak problem later.

Or would you try to unhook the bottom of the cylinder body and isolate it
or just take the whole assembly off of the splitter and be sure of no alternate ground path occurring.

Grind a clean surface for ground clamp. Just don't weld/strike an arc anywhere else.
I would not weld it, just my deflated 2 Cents.

 

[Junk Meister]

And a bottle of JACK to get the "FIX" done

 

[Dustin4185]

Found it on Jacks. Looks like it was bolted originally with jam nuts.

 

[Junk Meister]

Edit: you guys are posting much faster than me.

ME 2

 

[Junk Meister]

Found it on Jacks. Looks like it was bolted originally with jam nuts.

View attachment 404106

Any pics of the bottom end?

 

[Dustin4185]

I guess the tip of the rod has broken off where the treads are. So now the proper fix would be have a new rod made with threads. If it was mine, I would find me a grade 8 - 3/4” bolt, cut off what I needed, run the cylinder out and disconnect, bevel both the rod and the bolt and make them one again. Grind and put it back on. It still needs something on the bottom, maybe a bushing or piece of tube welded in to take up room.