MS460 PTO Crank Seal Problems

[drf256]

Common newbie mistake is using the longer m4 screws for the upper fly side 1128 AV mount on the oil pump in error. They are longer and will punch through the crankcase. I did it once and never made that mistake again.

 

[jacktheripper]

Yep, I made sure not to do that. Also, there is no definite "punch through" damage on either side of the case. Just a strange, small leak.

 

[Woodwackr]

And then there's a loose bearing seat...

 

[Basher]

The screw on Jacks saw is not punched through, his saw is leaking around the steel insert where it meets the crankcase. I think this crack appears due to the difference of expansion rates from heat, I have sealed them up with 309 using vac pulled it in and the saws have sealed and stay sealed for years now, the precleaning to rid it of oil took some time as nothing will seal up an oily surface.

 

[jacktheripper]

I heated up the clutch side case with a heat gun under pressure and vacuum in an attempt to get the air leak to show. It didn't. I still think that it probably needs a clutch side case, but maybe I'm missing something. Who knows, maybe I'm just experiencing carb nozzle issues or something. It definitely is still acting like it has an air leak, but I can't pin it down. I'm going to replace the fuel filter and see if anything happens. What is strange is that it fires up and runs fine for a minute, then starts stumbling over itself and going lean. Then it becomes very reactive to the fuel screw and either tunes too rich or too lean quickly. I ran it with the gas cap off to check for ventilation issues, but it didn't make a difference.

I think I just need to move on from this project - just listed it as is for $500. Just want to get my money back out of it.

 

[jacktheripper]

I am beginning to wonder if it might actually be the carb. I had a bad nozzle on three wt194's from three 026's in a row. They would start up and initially run fine, and then lean out and act erratically. That is what is happening to me with this saw...

 

[Basher]

This chainsaw repair hobby can become a bit expensive when one needs to keep buying swap out parts just to try to overcome a running problem. Many turn to using the cheaper AM parts and that works sometimes but often it just causes another problem. Have a case on point, my next door neighbor on the lake was having issues with his Jonsered65 cc saw and he is a bit of a handy fellow mechanically. He spent several months tearing his carb out cleaning and adjusting each weekend. He finally brought it over to me and told me what was happening, my diagnosis was that the coil/ module was packing it in when it heated up but he wouldn`t believe that since it had spark when tested when cooled down so he kept up the tear apart clean and adjust over and over until we got a cheaper AM module just to try, voila the saw ran great again. Now it has a new OEM module in it and the point of my long post is sometimes it makes sense to try a cheaper AM part as a diagnosis tool. I would personally have skipped the AM coil but his cheap ass philosophy prevents him from overspending on any issue.