MS 660 Pull Cord Issues

[CrystalRiver1]

Hey Studs,

I have modded extra torquey MS 660 done up great by a good guy here.
The saw runs perfect!!
Only problem is that it has ripped through 3 pull cord handles!!
Just got it bk from the shop and it after about 4 pulls it just rips the tie off onor straight through the handle!!
So once again I had to field fix it before I noodled some rounds.

Any idea how to get to the bottom of this. Could it be something around the decompression button? Tie a monster size knot??

I'm lost...

 

[Stump Shot]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-Elas...806868?hash=item3b5945a4d4:g:lCUAAOSw9PNgTENM

 

[CrystalRiver1]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STIHL-Elas...806868?hash=item3b5945a4d4:g:lCUAAOSw9PNgTENM

Hey Steve,

What the advantages of this pull cord & why is this making a dam dunce out of local Stihl shops guys??
Bro...this is crazy...

 

[066 redeye]

I always use a 3/16 or 5/32 flat washer under the knot.
Don't rely on just the handle.
Or use a D handle,also with washer.

 

[CrystalRiver1]

I always use a 3/16 or 5/32 flat washer under the knot.
Don't rely on just the handle.
Or use a D handle,also with washer.

I like that way of thinking!
Much obliged to you & Stump Shot!

 

[rogue60]

Plus 1 on a genuine Stihl elastostart no more problemos.

 

[Stump Shot]

Hey Steve,

What the advantages of this pull cord & why is this making a dam dunce out of local Stihl shops guys??
Bro...this is crazy...

The elastostart setup from Stihl has just a little bit of buffer to it and is easier on the operator and starter mechanism. Also pay for the genuine article here as copycat units are a waste of time and money.
Otherwise I like to use either a figure eight knot or wrap the tag end around the main line a couple two three times before putting it through the loop and cinching tight. Either method makes s larger knot than a simple overhand one. Don't know about what your local Stihl guys are doing for you or what the nut and rubber washers are supposed to be there for either.
Also as far as starters go, the 660 is a fairly easy one to work on if you care to try and tackle the job yourself.

Edit: Otherwise, if you like, take the starter off package it up and send it to me and I'll work it over and send it back with a modified decomp valve at NC.
(Decompression valve is "normally" modded, but will send one anyways)

 

[67L36Driver]

I always use a 3/16 or 5/32 flat washer under the knot.
Don't rely on just the handle.
Or use a D handle,also with washer.

Washers that come with pop rivets are great depending on rope size.

Use 4, 4.5 or 5 mm rope.

Plus one on the Elastostart handle. Must have on MS460 and 660.

Use genuine Stihl coils also as they have retarded timing programmed in at cranking speed. Aftermarket ‘one coil fits all’ don’t have that feature.

Figure eight knot always!

Drill the bleed port out larger in the decomp valve. As much as .062” if necessary. They are .025” to begin with.

All this allows a 130# geezer to start a large saw easily.

[emoji106]

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Yes! For the genuine elasto start handle, and either a drop of super glue on the knot end or melted with a lighter.
The decomp can be swapped out for a Husqvarna or Jonsered which I've done on some of the more extreme compression Stihls I have.
You can't stress the chicken arms of hoosky owners, so their decomp buttons work well .

 

[Creaky limb tree care]

Sometimes if too much pull cord is fitted to the spool it can rub on the flywheel.

 

[Cooper264]

Definitely invest in an elasostart. It will save you time, money, and arm injuries lol. Im not sure if anyone above explained it but with the elasto, the knot is essentially imbedded in a rubber boot in the pull handle. That sounds kinda stupid but its genius. When you pull on the handle it absorbs the shock of the pull, and the knot literally can't come undone or puled out of the handle. If you dont want to get the elasto, get a bigger decomp and tie a giant ass knot on the handle

 

[Woodslasher]

Definitely invest in an elasostart. It will save you time, money, and arm injuries lol. I'm not sure if anyone above explained it but with the elasto, the knot is essentially imbedded in a rubber boot in the pull handle. That sounds kinda stupid but its genius. When you pull on the handle it absorbs the shock of the pull, and the knot literally can't come undone or puled out of the handle. If you dont want to get the elasto, get a bigger decomp and tie a giant ass knot on the handle

I saw an elastostart where it had an accessible knot that rode in a plastic sleeve, which sat on a spring inside of the handle. I prefer that style over the Elastostart handle with the chunky rubber square section.

 

[Cooper264]

I saw an elastostart where it had an accessible knot that rode in a plastic sleeve, which sat on a spring inside of the handle. I prefer that style over the Elastostart handle with the chunky rubber square section.

I've heard of those but i've never actually pulled over a saw with one on it. I've personally never had any problems out of my new style elasto's. Ive had them on anything from 362 to 880, some ported high comp saws, never any issues. 110% better than the stock basic handle. Hell, I even put them on huskies. Granted, it would be nice to be able to access the knot on them, but i've never had any issue where I would need to get to it. Only time ive broken one is when the string catches on the metal lining where the sting goes into the started

 

[drf256]

Buy an OEM 395 decomp valve and add it to the the top. They pop at a higher pressure than the Stihl ones. That and the elastostart pull cord.

The $395 valves are around $15 and screw right in.

 

[old guy]

Buy an OEM 395 decomp valve and add it to the the top. They pop at a higher pressure than the Stihl ones. That and the elastostart pull cord.

The $395 valves are around $15 and screw right in.

Thanks for that, my hybrid is kicking out a new stihl decomp, I can't handle that kinda punishment.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

100cc ,no decomp, high compression. Yes Elasto start.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Had to switch to D handles on these big saws and 5mm HD rope. Losing the decomp on the big saw is not an option I want to explore!
Losing the decomp on my work saws ain't happening. Drilling them to 0.040 three or four times cured the broken Stihl starter rubber handles on 1122 types. The Stihl rope hung tough, the elasto-start handle part, not so much. Broke three different D handles on the one 66. From TDC is the only way to start it without issues... pia. It's getting a decomp top cover soon. The hole is plugged under the flat top.

The big saw will take that elasto-handle from you. My sore hand gave up on that chit. I start them from TDC now. Plus these things are loud and scary. D handle doubles for self defense

 

[67L36Driver]

View attachment 291723 100cc ,no decomp, high compression. Yes Elasto start.

XP 1000?

I have one. Mind your P’s & Q’s when you start him.

 

[CrystalRiver1]

Buy an OEM 395 decomp valve and add it to the the top. They pop at a higher pressure than the Stihl ones. That and the elastostart pull cord.

The $395 valves are around $15 and screw right in.

Hey, That's what Stunpo Shot said!! LOL

 

[CrystalRiver1]

Had to switch to D handles on these big saws and 5mm HD rope. Losing the decomp on the big saw is not an option I want to explore!
Losing the decomp on my work saws ain't happening. Drilling them to 0.040 three or four times cured the broken Stihl starter rubber handles on 1122 types. The Stihl rope hung tough, the elasto-start handle part, not so much. Broke three different D handles on the one 66. From TDC is the only way to start it without issues... pia. It's getting a decomp top cover soon. The hole is plugged under the flat top.

The big saw will take that elasto-handle from you. My sore hand gave up on that chit. I start them from TDC now. Plus these things are loud and scary. D handle doubles for self defense

What's TDC Lightning?
I'm still in grade school on this stuff bro...