M tronic reset

[Jimmy in NC]

So I just put a top end on a MS362c. Standard procedure I would think would be reset the electronics after the replacement and a few heat cycles.

The procedure for this flavor M-tronic I believe is 90 seconds of Choke/Start position and then shut the saw down with out touching the throttle.

How do I kill the saw with out touching the throttle as the choke position locks multifunction lever until the throttle is touched? I figure the idea is to hold up on the lever and touch the throttle moving quickly to stop with out really increasing RPM much.

MS362c v2


Ideas? Comments? Should I just crush it?

 

[redlight066]

There’s conflicting info out there. Keith Bender my Stihl technical rep (Midatlantic Stihl Rep) said blip the throttle and shut it down. FWIW

 

[huskihl]

I’ve heard to run it in the start position for 60 seconds and also 90 seconds. But I’ve read where the manual stated not more than 90 seconds. So I always get to 65 or 70 and then shut it off. But I’ve never seen an M Tronic selector switch you couldn’t move straight from start to off

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I’ve heard to run it in the start position for 60 seconds and also 90 seconds. But I’ve read where the manual stated not more than 90 seconds. So I always get to 65 or 70 and then shut it off. But I’ve never seen an M Tronic selector switch you couldn’t move straight from start to off

I'll make a video.. its a wonky setup and piss poor in my opinion. The choke almost pulls right across the choke shaft
..aka it 'pops' over center.

 

[Manofstihl661]

The start stop on my 261 is pretty smooth... and when I did a reset on it I had no problem going to stop. May be different than the 362 but maybe there is something from with the switch on that one?

 

[Backtroller]

This is what Randy had told me. Worked great every time I’ve done it.

No bar or chain. Brake off. Start with choke on. Let idle for 90 seconds. Switch off. Don't touch the throttle at any point during the process. Then...fire it back up. I usually hold the throttle wide open for the restart.

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Honestly I'm beginning to get skeptical on the whole rest thing. The last saw they did at the shop in town. They forgot to reconnect the choke link from the leaver to the butterfly. (Actually they lost the link all together) And that one seems to act just fine. (Brought it to me because it was taking 10+ pulles to start after the "shop" serviced/worked on it.

It Probably does make a difference, but I'm getting to the point of questioning doing it. Don't know if I'll stop, but I may try it on a saw or two of my own. For science and stuff.


Steven

 

[huskyboy]

I just ran the 441 mtronic really good when I swapped the junk carb out for a new one. It learned pretty quick. I found running the saw good does more than a reset usually. If it continues to run erratic after a reset, there’s probably something up with the solenoid or carburetor most likely. At least in my limited experiences with the mtronic.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Promised video of the lever locking. You set the choke you will not release with out a blip.

 

[redlight066]

I just ran the 441 mtronic really good when I swapped the junk carb out for a new one. It learned pretty quick. I found running the saw good does more than a reset usually. If it continues to run erratic after a reset, there’s probably something up with the solenoid or carburetor most likely. At least in my limited experiences with the mtronic.

I couldn’t agree more Mason. After a reset, if you pay attention, you can hear the saw go from heavy 4-stroking to actually feeling some decent heat coming from under the top cover, then settle back to a good tune/temp. Nice steady pressure with the bar at least half buried and multiple cuts.

This exercise only verifies that the system is asking for fuel adjustments and responding as it should.

Working the saw under a good, steady, firm load will optimize the fuel settings. This needs to be done occasionally, but especially after a lot of partial throttle or light load limbing. It’s always “learning “ good or bad...... Auto tune really doesn’t like long periods of idling.

 

[redlight066]

Promised video of the lever locking. You set the choke you will not release with out a blip.

Jimmy, I think you have the wrong choke lever. Ms362 and MS362CM have different choke levers. Sounds crazy but I’m almost positive. Had a similar issue with a damaged 362 last year. I’ve only got a non MTronic 362 in the shop so I can’t be 100% sure. My Stihl dealer is closed for the week so I can’t call and confirm.

I know you’ve had issues working after some of the local “technicians “ recently....

@Mastermind this sound accurate? You’ve been in a bunch of these

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Jimmy, I think you have the wrong choke lever. Ms362 and MS362CM have different choke levers. Sounds crazy but I’m almost positive. Had a similar issue with a damaged 362 last year. I’ve only got a non MTronic 362 in the shop so I can’t be 100% sure. My Stihl dealer is closed for the week so I can’t call and confirm.

I know you’ve had issues working after some of the local “technicians “ recently....

@Mastermind this sound accurate? You’ve been in a bunch of these

I know for sure that the choke link is different. I can't find them at the moment but there is about 1/8in difference in length. And no you can't bend them to make them interchangeable.

There were actually three different links, but one is nla. So you only have two options now.

Steven


Edit: found them. The mtronic uses the longer of the two and that is the pn# on the bag.

 

[Mastermind]

I know for sure that the choke link is different. I can't find them at the moment but there is about 1/8in difference in length. And no you can't bend them to make them interchangeable.

There were actually three different links, but one is nla. So you only have two options now.

Steven


Edit: found them. The mtronic uses the longer of the two and that is the pn# on the bag.
View attachment 215168 View attachment 215169 View attachment 215170

This right here.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Its the one with a hook on the carb end...not a Z which looks longer. It works...just not the swiftest design they have had.